UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » 97 M900 Clutch cover , Air filter

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Old 21-04-2017, 08:20 PM   #16
Yorkie
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Cool

Just a little selection of carbon covers:

http://www.rsrmoto.com/categories/du...ch-covers.html

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Old 21-04-2017, 09:05 PM   #17
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AFAIK there are 2 types of spring caps. Lets call them deep and shallow for arguments sake as I'm not sure of the actual dimensions off hand. As I understand it the deep ones are for the standard clutch and the shallow ones are for a slipper clutch. I'm not sure of the exact reason for this but the slipper has a different number of plates and the pressure plate does not have the raised section with teeth like the standard one does, so it can release easier I guess.
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Old 21-04-2017, 09:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorkie View Post
Just a little selection of carbon covers:

http://www.rsrmoto.com/categories/du...ch-covers.html

Yorkie
They're quite reasonable really but I would choose one with the most carbon otherwise you're just paying for fresh air.

This one is actually very close to the original Corse design as seen on the 888 race bikes from back in the day:-

http://www.rsrmoto.com/products/rsr-...-d9827-pg.html
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Old 22-04-2017, 11:23 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by slob View Post
The biggest advantage of a K&N type filter is it's washable, rather than a paper one that wants replacing at service time.
On the other hand, the biggest advantage of a std filter is its cheap and paper so you can chuck it away and fit a new one, rather than one you have to wash and oil at service time!



Maybe I'm just a bit lazy!!
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Old 23-04-2017, 01:07 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by lairylarry View Post
On the other hand, the biggest advantage of a std filter is its cheap and paper so you can chuck it away and fit a new one, rather than one you have to wash and oil at service time!



Maybe I'm just a bit lazy!!
The K&N type are a bit freer flowing than the paper ones so are ideal if you have a Dynojet kit/PCIII or other similar changes and tuning to the fuel circuits or fuel map on ie bikes.

You have to buy the cleaner and oil but it probably works out cheaper in the long run and you don't have to clean it very often anyway. They recommend cleaning at least every 50,000 miles!
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Old 26-04-2017, 02:43 PM   #21
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I got some DucaBike accessories Will see how it looks with the OE pressure plate and may get a gold pressure plate, or black, mix up the spring and cap colors





Black Springs



Gold Caps
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Old 27-04-2017, 04:12 PM   #22
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What is the torque for the Clutch springs? 5nm
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Old 27-04-2017, 06:33 PM   #23
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I'm not sure if they list a specific torque for them off hand, they probably do but I can't remember. I've never bothered but you do have to be careful not to overtighten them and break the stud. I always put a bit of copper grease on them and just nip them up. I'll have to look for my service manual if no-one else knows?
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Old 28-04-2017, 09:39 PM   #24
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Just seen it says 5nm on the instructions , thanks Darren!

I think I read 5Nm on here somewhere too
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Old 30-04-2017, 03:37 PM   #25
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one of the feckin bolts Snaped

Even prior to touching the clutch today , everytime I go into 1st she just jumps forward , the clutch is still fully engaged , choke off , any idea's?

Can you still drive it with one spring on the pressure plate missing, any idea's on removing the bolt?
Tried to superglue the head back on, no luck, used anti seize spray on it, tried a chisel to wind it back , tried a drill bit (need a better one) , tried a magnet but not strong enough, it sits in far enough I cannot get a needle nose pilers on

Might try a hack saw see if I can get a slit in there for a screw driver but think it is sitting too flush, you would cut into the basket




Last edited by CarloL; 30-04-2017 at 03:40 PM..
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Old 30-04-2017, 06:23 PM   #26
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Bugger! Are those the original Ducati bolts? If they are then I'm not surprised since they have all the strength of nickle plated cheese. I've replaced pretty much all of mine for good quality stainless or titanium for that reason and they look nicer.

It should be ok with 1 less spring, the race bike clutches have only 4. The problem with the bike moving when selecting 1st would suggest that the clutch is dragging and isn't actually disengaging enough. You should be able to turn the pressure plate by hand when the bikes not running, with the lever pulled in it should turn by hand fairly easily. You may need to bleed the slave and replace the old fluid if that's not the case.
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Old 30-04-2017, 08:06 PM   #27
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Thanks Darren ,

It was my fault , torque wrench never click at 5nm , it snapped

With regards the clutch she is rock solid with the Lever in , bike off , I can hear a slight hiss down near the clutch , I reckon the OE rubber pipe has had it

Need to look up a tutorial to bleed it ,

Will throw up a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztwBeR3ZqKk

Also I changed the oil cap , noticed mayo type discharge in the cap, normal?


Last edited by CarloL; 30-04-2017 at 08:10 PM..
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Old 30-04-2017, 09:15 PM   #28
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Old 30-04-2017, 09:32 PM   #29
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Clutch Slave Cylinder is gone , the rear type rubber accordion is letting in air and out fluid no doubt , very messy behind the sprocket cover

Anybody have a rough price of a new one ?

Better off getting something like this
http://www.ducabike.com/monster/900-...aggiorato.html

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Old 01-05-2017, 08:34 AM   #30
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You used to be able to get new seals from Ducati for that type but tbh they were never great anyway and always leak after a short time. The ones from a later bike will probably fit, I think they only improved the slave design and the mounting is the same, you'll also probably benefit from a braided steel clutch line too. They show up on ebay quite a lot and there are also plenty of better aftermarket ones.

Its probably worth looking at replacing the brake lines too if they are original rubber type still!
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