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27-01-2021, 10:07 PM | #16 | |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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On balance, I think I’d want one tightened to manufacturer’s specifications!
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27-01-2021, 10:15 PM | #17 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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What you’re after is axial tension in the spindle and to achieve that you have to overcome the friction of the threads, humongous thread diameter = insane torque setting. |
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28-01-2021, 09:13 AM | #18 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,844
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AFAIK Ducati use two sizes of stand spindle; the smaller (originally made for 916) fits the smaller hub SSSA bikes and the larger (originally made for 1098) fits the later, more powerful bikes (1098, 1198, 1200 etc.) the most obvious difference visually is the smaller hubs have a 5-bolt sprocket carrier and the larger a 6-bolt carrier.
I have a 916 and have always managed to torque up the nut whilst bike on paddock stand, holding it with the rear brake. Use moly grease on the threads and have a long torque wrench with a well-fitting socket - most conventional sockets have a chamfer at the opening and this means you don't get enough purchase on the slim wheel nut and slipping can end in injury - I had the (46mm socket) chamfer machined off so that it's got a nice 'sharp' edge.
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
28-01-2021, 09:57 AM | #19 | |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,815
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Quote:
Apparently you can use a torque stick of a pre-set value to control the rattle gun's torque. My quick search did not find one of 176NM or 130 lbft but I'm sure that one could be found? They look like this..
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28-01-2021, 09:58 AM | #20 | ||
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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28-01-2021, 10:26 AM | #21 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Quote:
Torque wrenches aren’t mad expensive and most anybody in here will be able to put 200nm of force through one. So rattle gunning things on to 176 or so is crazy. Imo. I do like those torque sticks tho. |
28-01-2021, 11:19 AM | #22 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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28-01-2021, 12:54 PM | #23 | |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,815
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Quote:
It does seem to be quite difficult to find one of just the setting that you need.. And then it will only do one thing, so you need to be using a lot of that particular torque to make it worthwhile. (Like 16 or 20 wheel nuts twice a year?) I just wondered if anyone has any experience of them?
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 28-01-2021 at 12:58 PM.. |
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28-01-2021, 03:12 PM | #24 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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28-01-2021, 03:45 PM | #25 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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30-01-2021, 12:43 PM | #26 |
rattles when he walks
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: in the comfy chair,moved furniture around
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,065
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I use one of these when working on my mountain bikes, brilliant bit of kit, saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads.
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...s/767-TORQUE-6 Rob, sorry to hear you've been in the wars. |
30-01-2021, 01:08 PM | #27 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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30-01-2021, 03:31 PM | #28 |
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I can't always rely on having an assistant, so I use an ABBA stand and a ratchet strap. Hook the strap over the ABBA stand where it fits into the swing arm bolt, through the back wheel and take up the slack with the ratchet. Works for loosening as well as tightening if you adjust where the strap goes through the wheel. If you use a paddock stand then you can hook the strap on a frame tube/footrest bracket
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30-01-2021, 06:02 PM | #29 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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