High level cans - early shape monsters

[Andy B]

Hey guys,

Just test fitted some high levels I got from the for sale section (cheers taff! ) and think they could do with shortening slightly... look sightly long with the tail chop (also - am i right in thinking with some slight adjustment i dont have to chop the pillion pegs off to fit em? had to loosen them for a test fit...)






(please excuse the messy garage - wheels are off having just painted them - getting balanced tomorrow and hopefully out for first ride at weekend )



so - can anyone with high levels on their monster put any photos up for a bit of inspiration for sizing? not sure how short to go... masking tape on the cans in the photos was a first guess so to speak....

cheers in advance
Andy

[Andy B]

oh and also (thiking on after looking at the photos again) - what would be the best way of mounting them up top by the frame rails too?

[slob]

Some 10mm (ish) spacers on the footrest hanger mounting bolts will allow the link pipes to fit nicely.


The rear bracket usually fits across the two bolts at the back of the undertray.
almost visible here

[Yorkie]

Yorkie

Does anyone have any issues with the down pipes hitting the hoop? I know Utopia said he did, and had springs fitted.

Just wondering whether anyone else has this issue and what I can do (aside from welding hooks on to the pipes, which I can't do) to fix it pre-MOT.

[Darren69]

I don't have a hoop on mine, but had some issues with the can rubbing slightly on the hugger when the suspension compressed enough but only on one side. Also the link pipes can rub on swing arm, I had this issue with both my SS and Monster, there is very little space there especially if they are bigger 50mm type link pipes.

[utopia]

Actually, the spring hooks on mine aren't welded on...... yet.
They're just clamped on with (decent quality) stainless jubilee clips.
This helps in getting them positioned just right, but mine have been like that for 18 months now and they haven't shifted at all.
I needed to have the springs going obliquely across the joint to impart a slight twist in the pipe, in order to stop the cans flapping.
Don't have pics but could get some if you need.

tbh, just using clamps around the joint itself would've been perhaps a more reliable solution, but the springs work ok if you get them positioned right and its a neater and more convenient arrangement in the end.

Pics would be great Jeff. I'm going to try some clamps first. Any recommendations on type?

[Dirty]

Nipple!

kept my rear pegs