I am Desperately in need of help/advice

mickj · 12-06-2023, 11:37 AM

How the F**K do I get the wheel nut off my M1200s? I did it a few years ago after some struggling and did it up as tight as I could but it was below what Ducati recommend.
But now I have a puncture and cannot remove the wheel nut, I have sloshed it down with penetrating oil, I have used a 350nm air gun on it and I have used a 5' breaker bar on it and the bugger wont budge. I have tried a truck tyre centre but they wont even try, they recon their air tools will just strip the threads. My local dealer isn't much help beyond telling me it's on very tight.
Does anyone here know what I can try next, the suns out and the roads are dry so I want to make the most of it.

Mark64 · 12-06-2023, 12:41 PM

I feel your pain, firstly, don't panic, plusgas penetrating oil is your friend,, give it a good soaking, also you didn't say what size drive the socket is, if it's only 1/2" drive try a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, you can get much more force through a bigger drive, also get someone (preferably large) to sit on the bike holding the rear brake on while you exert as much force as possible to undo the nut, try a longer pipe/bar, I have worked in heavy engineering all my life and have had to resort to proper abuse to remove some nuts, putting pipes on 3/4 ratchets and bars in the pipes coz they weren't long enough, last resort, grind it off / hammer & chisel it off, carefully so as not to damage the male thread on the axle.
Good luck, hope this helps, keep us informed

Luddite · 12-06-2023, 01:50 PM

Is the problem that the rear wheel turns before you can loosen the nut? If so, try locking the wheel with a sturdy length of wood between the spokes and the swinging arm. (My paddock stand comes with a rubber covered metal bar to do just that.)

Otherwise try the longest breaker bar you can find. I had a similar problem with my sprocket nut last month. I just couldn't shift it even though it was tightened to a lower torque than the wheel nut. I eventually shifted it with a three foot length of scaffold pole.

When you replace it, ensure you use moly grease on the threads and underside of the nut.

Good luck!

12-06-2023, 05:48 PM

I have a similar issue with my car, sheared a 17 mm socket over the weekend,bent a bar ,even borrowed an impact driver. Next for me is apply some heat to see if the differential in expansion rates of metals does the trick….good luck!

Ron1000 · 12-06-2023, 06:15 PM

I took mine off my evo just recently. I found the best way is a long (mines is 1100mm) breaker bar and I found 3/4” breaker bars have zero bend so transfer all the force.

I got a mate to sit on it so it had weight and both brakes on. It came off relatively easily. I also use insulation tape over the nut and tap the socket on so it’s nice and tight to reduce the chance of slippage.

My impact gun rated to 400Nm wouldn’t budge it and my mates 800Nm rated mac tools gun wouldn’t touch it either.

adie851 · 12-06-2023, 06:17 PM

You need a mate with a gas welding set....assuming it's the rear wheel nut....warm it up around the nut and a big long bar attached to the socket and then it'll come off ...might need a new wheel nut though once its off......I've had that problem with single sided swingarm bikes in the past..usually they've been overtightened.....Good luck

Mark64 · 12-06-2023, 06:54 PM

Heat works really well due the different expansion rates of metals, and if you are using a gas axe - it can't be tight if it's liquid ;-)

Stinger101 · 13-06-2023, 02:48 PM

My local tyre centre use their regular battery Milwaukee tools to undo mine. I have to take my own 55mm socket in and it's always come undone on first blast. I bought a cheap 420nm lithium rattle gun for £50 and it won't budge it from it's 220nm torque setting. The cheap item does undo all the car wheels & other nuts it happens so not a total waste of pennies. :-)

bigredduke · 13-06-2023, 07:28 PM

I have an 1100 Evo and use a Clarke mains impact wrench which works fine.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...impact-wrench/

I also have an air impact wrench and compressor which I found wouldn’t shift the wheel nut, hence the Clarke.

It’s a pity I am so far away in East Yorkshire otherwise I could have popped round with it!

rollo22 · 13-06-2023, 08:41 PM

As Bigredduke says can’t fault the Clarke main gun takes my hub nut off in seconds.
As Luddite says make sure you clean and re grease all the bits before refitting, I put a smear on every mating face.

mickj · 16-06-2023, 08:33 AM

Sorted, I bought a 3/4 drive 3' 3" breaker bar, but still had to use my 5' tube over it and it came off, I was expecting to come off with a loud crack but it just rolled off. I had been dousing it in penetrating oil for the last four days though. Replaced the tyre and had it back on the bike in under an hour but I used a bit of grease before doing it up which I was able to do by myself with virtually no effort, 230nm.

Thanks for all your input.

Mark64 · 16-06-2023, 12:24 PM

That's great news, it's amazing how much more force you can get through a 3/4 drive, proper MAN size, and always good to have in your tool armoury.

dunf · 16-06-2023, 01:40 PM

i changed my rear tyre the other day and also had similar issues. My 400nm 1/2" battery gun wouldn't budge it. Tried my mates 600nm battery no joy. Then stuck my Snap On 1/2" air gun on it with line attached direct to the compressor outlet and it came off immediately.
The nut was an anodised aluminium one. It now looks knackered with all the battery impact attempts so I put the original one back on after.

Grumpy · 16-06-2023, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunf

i changed my rear tyre the other day and also had similar issues. My 400nm 1/2" battery gun wouldn't budge it. Tried my mates 600nm battery no joy. Then stuck my Snap On 1/2" air gun on it with line attached direct to the compressor outlet and it came off immediately.
The nut was an anodised aluminium one. It now looks knackered with all the battery impact attempts so I put the original one back on after.

I use a 240v rattle gun purchased from machine mart, wrap the nut in a cloth( same issue, anodized nuts.....Which sounds very painful

) This technique has never failed yet.

Dukedesmo · 22-06-2023, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moco1961

I have a similar issue with my car, sheared a 17 mm socket over the weekend,bent a bar ,even borrowed an impact driver. Next for me is apply some heat to see if the differential in expansion rates of metals does the trick….good luck!

Similar here, I'm rebuilding an old Land Rover and have bought a spare rolling chassis to use as a donor for certain parts.

Got the front wheels off OK but I can't shift the rear wheel nuts, air powered rattle gun won't touch it and my 30" breaker bar is flexing way too much for my liking at the joint where the socket fits and I fear it'll break if I try too hard.

Although I don't actually need the rear axle, I'd still like to shift it and it maybe something I can sell on to recoup some of the ridiculous, money-pit levels of costs it's giving me plus, I don't like being beaten so, for now I've sprayed it with plenty of plus gas and will come back to it later, maybe a 3/4 breaker or serious flame is required?

12-06-2023, 11:37 AM	#1
mickj Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Clevedon Bike: M1200s Posts: 560	I am Desperately in need of help/advice How the F**K do I get the wheel nut off my M1200s? I did it a few years ago after some struggling and did it up as tight as I could but it was below what Ducati recommend. But now I have a puncture and cannot remove the wheel nut, I have sloshed it down with penetrating oil, I have used a 350nm air gun on it and I have used a 5' breaker bar on it and the bugger wont budge. I have tried a truck tyre centre but they wont even try, they recon their air tools will just strip the threads. My local dealer isn't much help beyond telling me it's on very tight. Does anyone here know what I can try next, the suns out and the roads are dry so I want to make the most of it. __________________ Keep the rubber side down. Mick

12-06-2023, 05:48 PM	#4
Moco1961 Guest Posts: n/a	Wheely tight I have a similar issue with my car, sheared a 17 mm socket over the weekend,bent a bar ,even borrowed an impact driver. Next for me is apply some heat to see if the differential in expansion rates of metals does the trick….good luck!

13-06-2023, 07:28 PM	#9
bigredduke Nothing to see here Join Date: May 2005 Location: brough Bike: M1100evo Posts: 1,546	I have an 1100 Evo and use a Clarke mains impact wrench which works fine. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...impact-wrench/ I also have an air impact wrench and compressor which I found wouldn’t shift the wheel nut, hence the Clarke. It’s a pity I am so far away in East Yorkshire otherwise I could have popped round with it! Last edited by bigredduke; 13-06-2023 at 07:31 PM.. Reason: Add

13-06-2023, 08:41 PM	#10
rollo22 Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Moreton-in-Marsh Bike: M1100evo Posts: 1,082	As Bigredduke says can’t fault the Clarke main gun takes my hub nut off in seconds. As Luddite says make sure you clean and re grease all the bits before refitting, I put a smear on every mating face. __________________ IF ALL ELSE FAILS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS

16-06-2023, 08:33 AM	#11
mickj Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Clevedon Bike: M1200s Posts: 560	Sorted, I bought a 3/4 drive 3' 3" breaker bar, but still had to use my 5' tube over it and it came off, I was expecting to come off with a loud crack but it just rolled off. I had been dousing it in penetrating oil for the last four days though. Replaced the tyre and had it back on the bike in under an hour but I used a bit of grease before doing it up which I was able to do by myself with virtually no effort, 230nm. Thanks for all your input. __________________ Keep the rubber side down. Mick

12-06-2023, 12:41 PM	#2
Mark64 Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Hondon de los Frailes Bike: S4r Posts: 287	I feel your pain, firstly, don't panic, plusgas penetrating oil is your friend,, give it a good soaking, also you didn't say what size drive the socket is, if it's only 1/2" drive try a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, you can get much more force through a bigger drive, also get someone (preferably large) to sit on the bike holding the rear brake on while you exert as much force as possible to undo the nut, try a longer pipe/bar, I have worked in heavy engineering all my life and have had to resort to proper abuse to remove some nuts, putting pipes on 3/4 ratchets and bars in the pipes coz they weren't long enough, last resort, grind it off / hammer & chisel it off, carefully so as not to damage the male thread on the axle. Good luck, hope this helps, keep us informed

12-06-2023, 01:50 PM	#3
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Is the problem that the rear wheel turns before you can loosen the nut? If so, try locking the wheel with a sturdy length of wood between the spokes and the swinging arm. (My paddock stand comes with a rubber covered metal bar to do just that.) Otherwise try the longest breaker bar you can find. I had a similar problem with my sprocket nut last month. I just couldn't shift it even though it was tightened to a lower torque than the wheel nut. I eventually shifted it with a three foot length of scaffold pole. When you replace it, ensure you use moly grease on the threads and underside of the nut. Good luck!

12-06-2023, 06:15 PM	#5
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 863	I took mine off my evo just recently. I found the best way is a long (mines is 1100mm) breaker bar and I found 3/4” breaker bars have zero bend so transfer all the force. I got a mate to sit on it so it had weight and both brakes on. It came off relatively easily. I also use insulation tape over the nut and tap the socket on so it’s nice and tight to reduce the chance of slippage. My impact gun rated to 400Nm wouldn’t budge it and my mates 800Nm rated mac tools gun wouldn’t touch it either.

12-06-2023, 06:17 PM	#6
adie851 Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Bike: S4r Posts: 104	You need a mate with a gas welding set....assuming it's the rear wheel nut....warm it up around the nut and a big long bar attached to the socket and then it'll come off ...might need a new wheel nut though once its off......I've had that problem with single sided swingarm bikes in the past..usually they've been overtightened.....Good luck

12-06-2023, 06:54 PM	#7
Mark64 Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Hondon de los Frailes Bike: S4r Posts: 287	Heat works really well due the different expansion rates of metals, and if you are using a gas axe - it can't be tight if it's liquid ;-)

13-06-2023, 02:48 PM	#8
Stinger101 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Alcester Bike: M1200s Posts: 241	My local tyre centre use their regular battery Milwaukee tools to undo mine. I have to take my own 55mm socket in and it's always come undone on first blast. I bought a cheap 420nm lithium rattle gun for £50 and it won't budge it from it's 220nm torque setting. The cheap item does undo all the car wheels & other nuts it happens so not a total waste of pennies. :-)

16-06-2023, 12:24 PM	#12
Mark64 Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Hondon de los Frailes Bike: S4r Posts: 287	That's great news, it's amazing how much more force you can get through a 3/4 drive, proper MAN size, and always good to have in your tool armoury.

16-06-2023, 01:40 PM	#13
dunf Registered User Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Dunfermline Bike: M1200s Posts: 27	i changed my rear tyre the other day and also had similar issues. My 400nm 1/2" battery gun wouldn't budge it. Tried my mates 600nm battery no joy. Then stuck my Snap On 1/2" air gun on it with line attached direct to the compressor outlet and it came off immediately. The nut was an anodised aluminium one. It now looks knackered with all the battery impact attempts so I put the original one back on after.