UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » cam belt change s4r

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Old 30-03-2020, 10:33 AM   #1
Griff
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cam belt change s4r

Hi folks,

I want to change the cam belts on my monster s4r/2006
as there are a few options to purchase, will it matter
if i choose a non OEM belt, as far as i understand it
the two belts are the same, also is there anything else i should check or change
when swapping the belts, the bike has 7,750 miles and the last change was
before i bought the bike at 4,200 miles [four years ago], will i need any special tools.
thanks in advance for any help.
[first post for me] stay safe.]
p.s. what are the options for a manual.

Griff.
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Old 30-03-2020, 10:54 AM   #2
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Hi Griff, check out https://youtu.be/lNsC8Mn6big
you should be able to find links to the remaining videos from there

Chris runs http://ca-cycleworks.com/ and http://www.ducatitech.com/
he also supplies http://www.exactuk.com/about-exactfit-cam-belts/

If you want OEM call Craig or Luke at MotoRapido, they do efficient mail order and give 10% discount to UKMOC members
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Old 30-03-2020, 01:19 PM   #3
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Stuart Sonley at Exact UK will also give a 10% discount when paying through friends and family via PayPal.

Drop him an email saying what you are interested in if you decide to use the Exact belts rather than ‘Ducati’ ones.

I’ve been using them a while now with no issues.

Also ordered these little babies 25/3 and arrived 27/3



As Slob says, Moto Rapido are brilliant for all genuine Ducati parts with (under normal circumstances) almost telepathic delivery.
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Last edited by Flip; 30-03-2020 at 01:22 PM..
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Old 01-04-2020, 07:41 PM   #4
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Quite easy to change, got belts from moto rapido.
Upright head, right cam pully requires lockin tool as that will flick round, 24mm swan neck spanner for tension adjustment and 13mm spanner, twist belts about half a turn to check tension, but if you've got a tension tool use that. Hope that helps
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Old 02-04-2020, 06:17 PM   #5
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Hi folks,

thanks for your advice, will finish the service and order the belts
when things have gotten back to normal.

Griff..
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Old 02-04-2020, 07:12 PM   #6
Darren69
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There is a tool you can get that locks both cam wheels together and with it you should be able to change the belts or even remove or replace the pulleys, it's not that expensive to buy either. I'll see if I can find one on fleabay.
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Old 02-04-2020, 07:37 PM   #7
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996 or 998 (testastretta)? I believe you'll need a different tool depending on which S4R model it is.
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Old 02-04-2020, 08:13 PM   #8
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Yea, Rob's right it will depend on if you have the 996 or 998 TS model.
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:28 AM   #9
Mark64
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I have the 998 engine in my s4r, I marked where the cams are with tippex, then count the number of teeth between each cam sprocket before removing the old belts, I also use an app to check the belt tension - Gates carbon drive - it works a treat.
Happy monstering
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:26 AM   #10
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This one is for a 999 engine and others:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cam-Gear-...0AAOSwWLddjhks

Most seem to be 3D printed plastic these days and there are some smaller and less substantial looking ones. The one I have is metal.
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Griff View Post
Hi folks,

thanks for your advice, will finish the service and order the belts
when things have gotten back to normal.

Griff..
Drop me a pm if you want any help, I'm in Peterborough these days.
i also own the cam lock tool Chris mentioned. You are welcome to borrow.
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:36 PM   #12
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+1 for the exact fit belts. If your setting the tension by frequency, check on their website because their tension values are slightly lower.
The locking tool is cheap enough. ( mines ally).
One of the vertical pulley cover hex bolts is very close to the frame. I cut an old Allen key very short for this job. Masking tape on frame for protection as you can chip the paint.
Check the tensioner pulleys bearings for play.

Some other observations are replace the regulator/ rectifier with a shindegen mosfet type which run more stable and run cooler. Yours will pack in and cause running issues and possible battery damage as mine did.
Keep your eye on the water radiator where the button head bolts go through the radiator. Mine was n/s top. Quite a common issue issue due to the position of the fasteners.
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Old 04-04-2020, 03:52 AM   #13
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Note that the cam lock tool for the S4R differs due to the dropped cam
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:42 AM   #14
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Note that the cam lock tool for the S4R differs due to the dropped cam
A legacy of the original application of the motor in the ST4, apparently. The ST series began with the ST2 2-valve motor with its weird air/water cooling and compact head dimensions. The demand for more ponies from a four-valver in the same chassis couldn't be satisfied with the DOHC four-valve head until Ducati lowered the exhaust cam by about 10mm to give clearance to the front wheel. Since the S4 and S4R Monsters have the same ST chassis, the motor is specific to them too. It's interesting that Ducati would undertake a re-design of the 916 motor head just to suit what I presume is a different weight-distribution of the ST chassis, though I've never seen it explained in detail. Mind you, there can't have been many owners of the 916 series that carried a pillion passenger and luggage!

Nick (Ducati ST enthusiast)
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Old 04-04-2020, 09:33 AM   #15
Darren69
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The dropped cam heads were I'm led to believe originally developed for and used briefly in the 955 Corsa factory race bikes and are also used in the 748 E version only and not the standard 748 or S, why I don't know.
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