Slow Monster rebuild

[slob]

but since the camera is facing in the same direction as the screen, surely what’s on your left is still in the left of the screen?

[Darkness]

Originally Posted by slob

but since the camera is facing in the same direction as the screen, surely what’s on your left is still in the left of the screen?

You sure about that Rob? A viewfinder is usually on the back of a camera, not facing the same way as the lens.

[slob]

Originally Posted by Darkness

You sure about that Rob? A viewfinder is usually on the back of a camera, not facing the same way as the lens.

okay then. get your phone and take a selfie with your eg. left eye shut.
now using the regular camera, turn the phone round and take another photo with the same eye shut.
compare the photos, both show your left eye shut but it’s on the right of the photo. the reversal is something of an illusion...

[manwithredbike]

Rear view camera images are reversed to simulate what a rear view mirror shows you.

[Darkness]

Originally Posted by manwithredbike

Rear view camera images are reversed to simulate what a rear view mirror shows you.

Yip, that’s what I thought.

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by manwithredbike

Rear view camera images are reversed to simulate what a rear view mirror shows you.

Yes, I'd agree with that.
It's certainly that way in my car, and wouldn't work any other way to use when reversing.
Not that you'll be reversing the bike with it, but I think I'd get confused if it wasn't reversed.

Nasher.

[350TSS]

Stting on the bike if I look over my left shoulder I should see a ZX9R exiting to my left (reality) the monitor shows exactly that

[slob]

yup my mistake, my head hurts, the mirror illusion is something else

[350TSS]

Over the last 5 or 6 months, I have continued to worry the electrics on the Monster, not enough to make them work, but various modifications have been made, none of which resulted in an MOT passable lighting system.
I have come to the conclusion that the problem is the M unit, which is/was defective from delivery, or something I have done over the last 18 months has caused it to go defective. (not entirely impossible because I dropped a 10m deep socket which shorted the battery to the starter solenoid and caused a big flash).
The M unit is supposed to be a) a digital fuse box, b) a relay for every power circuit, c) a flasher can, d) a 16-way connection box, and seems to perform all the desired functions except 1 (enabling the main beam to stay illuminated for longer than 4 seconds).
The unit is fed from a 25 amp fuse between it and the battery via a 6mm cable to an insulated post on one end. The case of the unit is earthed. There are 16 screw terminals, 8 on each side - on the left side they connect to the controlling switch which switches to earth, and on the right-hand side the wires connect to the various components which are then earthed when the component does what it is supposed to.
Yesterday I made a brave decision, given the time I have invested in making the system work, I will scrap the M unit and rewire each circuit.
I do not understand relays or how to wire them so there will be no relays in the circuit. My reasoning for this is that with LED lights throughout there are no circuits that require a heavy current draw (with the exception possibly of the starter motor which has a solenoid to do the heavy lifting and is a mechanical relay anyway and possibly the horn which is a momentary action switch that will only get used once a year at MOT time).
The circuit diagram will be as simple as I can make it. Battery through the ignition switch to a busbar. From the busbar to a fuse box with a fuse for each of the horn, indicators, brake lights, ignition, dip, and main beam with an auxiliary power feed for the neutral light, voltmeter, daylight running lights, rearview camera, and monitor.
All the switches will be inline between the fuse box and the component that the switch controls and the earth will be individual to each component.
Whilst I shall not be starting from scratch the change in configuration and placement of the switches within the architecture of each circuit will effectively be a 60% rewire job.
I have the fuse box and the busbar on order and there could be space constraints as the M unit is very compact and I will have to locate the busbar/fuse box in the same space, currently occupied by the M unit. Nobody said it would be easy.
However, having made the decision I can look forward with optimism and enthusiasm for the project as frankly over the last few months I have not looked forward to working on the bike as I continued to bash my head against a brick wall, not really knowing what I had to do to fix it and going over similar ground with little hope of success.
The bits should arrive just before we go on holiday to Pembroke, so major effort during the remains of August and I may even get out on it this summer.

[350TSS]

Help required
I have finally completed the 4th iteration of wiring this project and following the removal of the M unit I now have lights (DRL, instruments, indicators (including repeaters in the instruments) dip, and main beam, rear and number plate lights, brake lights) that should pass MOT, together with a working horn, working starter and run/kill switch. The camera and monitor works as does the voltmeter.
I have 3 remaining problems
1. The oil pressure switch remains a challenge. It effectively is an OFF switch which goes to earth through the clutch casing. When connected it blows the fuse, unsurprisingly as the single lead powering it is fed from the switched circuit from the ignition. I really want a double pole insulated oil pressure switch so that I can run power to it and the switch works when the oil pressure is OK and switches off the light on the instrument panel. I have spent some time searching the internet but cannot find one with 2 poles. I considered adapting a brake hydraulic switch and even obtaining a small pressure gauge and mounting it down on the clutch casing. It is not vital so a solution will emerge - I am currently favouring the gauge idea as it gives better information than a light which is not on when a preset minimum pressure is at the base of the switch.
2. The neutral switch does not light the indicator in the instruments at the moment - also not vital
3. The real reason for this request for help is that I have power to the coils (both sides) but no spark whatsoever.
The equipment fitted to the bike is as follows:
a) FastBike gear ignition Hall effect trigger mounted on the jack shaft drive belt pulley connected to
b) An Ignitech unit which came with the FastBike Gear and a wiring diagram that showed where the 9 or so wires going in and out of the unit should go on the possible 23 wiring positions available on the unit. It is definitely wired as FastBike gear recommend.
c) 2 x California Cycle works high output coils. With the ignition turned on and the kill switch in the "run" position I have 12 volts on both terminals on each coil. I have tried reversing the coil connections and in either orientation there are no sparks when the starter motor is cranked.
The starter motor spins the engine faster (with the spark plugs in) than I have ever heard any Ducati starter motor. The plugs are new NGK, not iridium. The leads are new, the caps are new, NGK, supplied with the coils so I am assuming there are no issues with whether or not the caps are fitted with resistors or not.

There are no exciter units and I am wondering if the system would need something to amplify the signal from the Hall effect unit or whether the Ignitech unit performs that function?

All suggestions gratefully received

[hh93]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

Help required

1. The oil pressure switch remains a challenge. It effectively is an OFF switch which goes to earth through the clutch casing. When connected it blows the fuse, unsurprisingly as the single lead powering it is fed from the switched circuit from the ignition. I really want a double pole insulated oil pressure switch so that I can run power to it and the switch works when the oil pressure is OK and switches off the light on the instrument panel. I have spent some time searching the internet but cannot find one with 2 poles. I considered adapting a brake hydraulic switch and even obtaining a small pressure gauge and mounting it down on the clutch casing. It is not vital so a solution will emerge - I am currently favouring the gauge idea as it gives better information than a light which is not on when a preset minimum pressure is at the base of the switch.

All suggestions gratefully received

Try wiring up the Oil light another way:

Power to the bulb
earth from the bulb to the P Switch.

With power on the bulb should be lit. Once there is oil pressure the switch unmakes breaking the circuit putting the light out.

Similar with the Neutral Light

regards
Howie

[350TSS]

^^^ Good suggestion unfortunately the indicator lights in the instrument are LEDs and are sealed inside the unit - no means of taking it apart that I can see

[350TSS]

A good couple of days and hopefully making some progress.
To ensure I had a working rear brake light I had to bleed the brakes (re-wiring the hydraulic switch meant it had to be taken off the master cylinder). Always a pain bleeding the back brake but when I worked out that the pipe union was drawing air and nipped it up it only took about 20 minutes (having spent an hour getting lots and lots of bubbles but hardly any draw through from the master cylinder).
The rear brake return spring is an unsatisfactorily home bent spring and coupled with a slightly notchy feel to the pedal, I decided to rework the arrangement.
The notchiness was due to the push rod not being perfectly aligned with the axis of the MC. Originally I had the MC on 12mm spacers off the footrest hanger(and as such was a bit intrusive on footrest space) and with the original standard slotted end fitting it needed to be a further 1mm outboard of the footrest plate to alleviate the notchiness in the lever. I decided to go with a spherical bearing mounted inboard of the pedal. The spherical bearing is more tolerant of any misalignment. The spring was re-bent to actually exert some return pressure. I had to machine up some narrower spacers and the mechanism is now really sweet in operation.

Today I spent my time trying to get a viable spark. Given that I had power at the coils I started there, swapping the wires to the coils - no result, running an earth lead from the coil bodies I did not expect to have any effect and I wasn't disappointed, similarly the removal of the plug caps and trying to track to the cylinder head studs.
I now knew I had a more serious issue, but where to start? I am as sure as I can be that I wired the Ignitech unit correctly but all the wires were wrapped in tape and incorporated into the loom and that would be a long and arduous task to remove it.
The FastBikegear hall effect triggers were my first port of call. This comprises an aluminium rotor bolted to the belt drive sprocket in the centre of the Vee with two rare earth magnets pressed into the the outer portion of the rotor. The sensors are mounted on a 3D printed nylon plate that bolts on the outside of the belt covers. You have to cut a 50mm hole in the belt cover to allow the rotor to project through.
I fitted CF belt covers and always had a concern that this cover was not correctly positioned.
After a lot of measuring I believe I may have found my spark problem. On the basis of my calculations I currently have a 5.2 mm air gap between the rotor and the sensors. I have no idea what it should be but I have a feeling it should be between 0.2 and 0.1mm. Tomorrow we shall try to obtain that gap and try again, fingers crossed.
fried chicken wilmington nc

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

On the basis of my calculations I currently have a 5.2 mm air gap between the rotor and the sensors. I have no idea what it should be but I have a feeling it should be between 0.2 and 0.1mm. Tomorrow we shall try to obtain that gap and try again, fingers crossed.

Sounds like a good piece of detective work there! For what it's worth, the recommended air gap between the pickup and the flywheel on the early 900 was 0.7mm ± 0.1mm.

Hopefully, you'll have some good news to report tomorrow.

[PPuxley]

Interesting stuff. I would think youre on the right track with the air gap- 5 mil sounds way too much.
I like the rear brake light pressure switch idea, a good cheap reliable modifiocation