Dukedesmo's M900 project - the intro... - Page 8

Dukedesmo · 11-03-2013, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jan (Belgium)

I remember having the original clamps on my old 800 with high level termignoni's.

On the joint between the mid-pipe and high level? (near the stand in the last pic).

I could use a clamp but would really need to cut a couple of slots into the outer pipe so that it could flex in to grip the high level pipe inside...

Blah blah · 11-03-2013, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Made a mounting bracket for the dash.

164mph, not bad for an air cooled Monster.

Very nice, one question... why's it wired to the door handle ??

I didn't bring a coat, I'll let myself out...

slob · 11-03-2013, 08:20 PM

My high Termis have the stock clamps on that join.

11-03-2013, 08:23 PM

Is it me or the key barrell is upside down?

Dukedesmo · 11-03-2013, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pomp1

Is it me or the key barrell is upside down?

The writing is the wrong way up but everything works OK, the ignition lock is from a 996 so maybe original Monster versions have the writing t'other way round...

Dukedesmo · 11-03-2013, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

My high Termis have the stock clamps on that join.

If I get some quality clamps on them maybe they'll compress enough for a tight fit? Actually only the right side is a bit wobbly, the left is fine. I could use sealant but then it'll be a struggle to take off in the future...

Dukedesmo · 11-03-2013, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blah blah

Very nice, one question... why's it wired to the door handle ??

I didn't bring a coat, I'll let myself out...

New security system, hotwired to the door handle - try to steal the bike or open the door and...

utopia · 12-03-2013, 03:32 AM

On the pipes.....
My pipes look identical to yours (apart from mine being titanium) and have the same surprising lack of spring hooks at the lower joint.
When I first fitted them, they were able to flap in and out a little, between the can clamp and the aforementioned lower joint. This in turn meant that the back end of the cans flapped in and out in opposition, and clattered against my number plate.
As a temporary measure, I hooked tension springs to pull the link pipes inwards to a point on the frame, thus spreading the ends of the cans. It would only pull a little way, before locking.
Another problem then surfaced.....
I think due to the weight of the std cans and their upswept angle, the joint to the headers is more leak proof. Also the can bracket is much more rigid and closer.
With my cans, or at least on one side anyway, the pressure pulses in the cans were sometimes enough to drag the can backwards through its clamp and open the joint to which you refer (not completely, but it would move about 8 or 10mm backwards.
And the pipes are straight through, ie no restrictive baffles/db killers or anything to catch the pulses.
I was a bit miffed as there is now a mark on one of my cans where it has slid back in its clamp a few times. I think it only happens when I give it a handful.

Anyway, the upshot is that I have been planning to have some spring loops welded on at the lower joint, as you suggest, for ages now, but I haven't yet located a welder who is both reliable and willing to do such a tiny job.
So my long considered opinion is....do it now, before you mark your cans.
Personally, I wouldn't fancy slotting the pipes and fitting clamps, as those type of joints are a pain to separate sometimes.

On the screen..and the quickly detacheable option.....
I have the same top yoke as your currently fitted one, and I made a very short screen from an old broken one, which has two broad, u-shaped sidepieces in thin ally sheet (2mm ?) which loop round (backwards and inwards) and fix to the holes in the front of the top yoke.
Yes I know....a pic is required but, well, sorry.
But the point is that this screen is rigid enough to fit with just one 6mm bolt either side, so its on and off in seconds. It doesn't flap, nor affect the headlamp adjustment or rim removal or anything.
Looks a bit like the screen on the Norton cafe racer maybe (which is another suggestion, actually).
It doesn't do a lot, but what it does do is significant...and it keeps the crap and rain off the back of the instruments too....without looking quite so much like a screen.
I think I had those guzzi le mans in mind when I cut the screen.
Anyway, maybe I'll sort out how to post my pics, or even bump into you sometime when the weather improves, and you can see it. (Ashby Follville maybe...?)

Dukedesmo · 12-03-2013, 07:27 AM

The right side can flaps about, the left not so much but with heat, vibration & movement I can see it being a problem on both.

I agree the best solution would be springs and it's an easy enough job to do so I'll be welding some loops on.

As for the screen, I've made a couple of 'L' shaped brackets that bolt to the side holes and then to the 6mm threaded holes in the front of the yoke, so just those and the headlight bolts are all that's required to remove - an easy enough job but it does leave the rear of the dash exposed or at least the ally mounting plate and warning lights so I will be leaving it on, at least initially. I think it looks OK personally and some wind protection is always good.

Often planned to go to Ashby Folville but never made it, despite it only being 10-15 minutes away. Will try to get over sometime this year.

12-03-2013, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

On the joint between the mid-pipe and high level? (near the stand in the last pic).

I could use a clamp but would really need to cut a couple of slots into the outer pipe so that it could flex in to grip the high level pipe inside...

Yes, on the mid pipe near the end of the stand in your last picture
I didn't have any slots cut into the pipe though, everything just fitted nicely.
Only thing I did was put some copper grease on the inner part - heat resistant and made it very easy to remove the pipes afterwards in case I wanted to give them a good clean.

Dukedesmo · 12-03-2013, 07:09 PM

Spring loops fitted;

There's still a little movement at the joint on the right side as the fit between the pipes is a bit loose but it won't be falling out, may use some sealant on final assembly.

slob · 12-03-2013, 07:14 PM

That looks much tidier than the stock clamp. A few people on here have recommended clear silicone sealant, as it is flexible and withstands high temperatures whereas exhaust sealants tend to harden completely and will then crack and blow out.

ps you're never going to stop from 164 before you hit the step-ladder!

Black Bob · 12-03-2013, 08:57 PM

Just spent best part of an hour reading this, and am awestruck.

Just. Brilliant.

utopia · 12-03-2013, 11:41 PM

Proper job.
So, the big question that I'm dying to ask.....does it stop the cans flapping or just keep them fully engaged ?

And I'm the same about Ashby Folville...never been despite only 20mins away.

13-03-2013, 06:11 AM

If you put three on it keeps them engaged if you have a good fitting slip joint. If your not planning on taking them apart on a regular basis then some clear silicone will stop any pop back and black soot around the joint.

12-03-2013, 07:27 AM	#114
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,844	The right side can flaps about, the left not so much but with heat, vibration & movement I can see it being a problem on both. I agree the best solution would be springs and it's an easy enough job to do so I'll be welding some loops on. As for the screen, I've made a couple of 'L' shaped brackets that bolt to the side holes and then to the 6mm threaded holes in the front of the yoke, so just those and the headlight bolts are all that's required to remove - an easy enough job but it does leave the rear of the dash exposed or at least the ally mounting plate and warning lights so I will be leaving it on, at least initially. I think it looks OK personally and some wind protection is always good. Often planned to go to Ashby Folville but never made it, despite it only being 10-15 minutes away. Will try to get over sometime this year. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

12-03-2013, 07:09 PM	#116
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,844	Spring loops fitted; There's still a little movement at the joint on the right side as the fit between the pipes is a bit loose but it won't be falling out, may use some sealant on final assembly. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

12-03-2013, 07:14 PM	#117
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,713	That looks much tidier than the stock clamp. A few people on here have recommended clear silicone sealant, as it is flexible and withstands high temperatures whereas exhaust sealants tend to harden completely and will then crack and blow out. ps you're never going to stop from 164 before you hit the step-ladder! Last edited by slob; 12-03-2013 at 07:16 PM..

11-03-2013, 08:20 PM	#108
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,713	My high Termis have the stock clamps on that join.

11-03-2013, 08:23 PM	#109
Pomp1 Guest Posts: n/a	Is it me or the key barrell is upside down?

12-03-2013, 03:32 AM	#113
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,545	On the pipes..... My pipes look identical to yours (apart from mine being titanium) and have the same surprising lack of spring hooks at the lower joint. When I first fitted them, they were able to flap in and out a little, between the can clamp and the aforementioned lower joint. This in turn meant that the back end of the cans flapped in and out in opposition, and clattered against my number plate. As a temporary measure, I hooked tension springs to pull the link pipes inwards to a point on the frame, thus spreading the ends of the cans. It would only pull a little way, before locking. Another problem then surfaced..... I think due to the weight of the std cans and their upswept angle, the joint to the headers is more leak proof. Also the can bracket is much more rigid and closer. With my cans, or at least on one side anyway, the pressure pulses in the cans were sometimes enough to drag the can backwards through its clamp and open the joint to which you refer (not completely, but it would move about 8 or 10mm backwards. And the pipes are straight through, ie no restrictive baffles/db killers or anything to catch the pulses. I was a bit miffed as there is now a mark on one of my cans where it has slid back in its clamp a few times. I think it only happens when I give it a handful. Anyway, the upshot is that I have been planning to have some spring loops welded on at the lower joint, as you suggest, for ages now, but I haven't yet located a welder who is both reliable and willing to do such a tiny job. So my long considered opinion is....do it now, before you mark your cans. Personally, I wouldn't fancy slotting the pipes and fitting clamps, as those type of joints are a pain to separate sometimes. On the screen..and the quickly detacheable option..... I have the same top yoke as your currently fitted one, and I made a very short screen from an old broken one, which has two broad, u-shaped sidepieces in thin ally sheet (2mm ?) which loop round (backwards and inwards) and fix to the holes in the front of the top yoke. Yes I know....a pic is required but, well, sorry. But the point is that this screen is rigid enough to fit with just one 6mm bolt either side, so its on and off in seconds. It doesn't flap, nor affect the headlamp adjustment or rim removal or anything. Looks a bit like the screen on the Norton cafe racer maybe (which is another suggestion, actually). It doesn't do a lot, but what it does do is significant...and it keeps the crap and rain off the back of the instruments too....without looking quite so much like a screen. I think I had those guzzi le mans in mind when I cut the screen. Anyway, maybe I'll sort out how to post my pics, or even bump into you sometime when the weather improves, and you can see it. (Ashby Follville maybe...?)

12-03-2013, 08:57 PM	#118
Black Bob Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Exeter Bike: M1100evo Posts: 580	Just spent best part of an hour reading this, and am awestruck. Just. Brilliant.

12-03-2013, 11:41 PM	#119
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,545	Proper job. So, the big question that I'm dying to ask.....does it stop the cans flapping or just keep them fully engaged ? And I'm the same about Ashby Folville...never been despite only 20mins away.

13-03-2013, 06:11 AM	#120
bluestoesonnose Guest Posts: n/a	If you put three on it keeps them engaged if you have a good fitting slip joint. If your not planning on taking them apart on a regular basis then some clear silicone will stop any pop back and black soot around the joint.