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Old 01-06-2017, 05:25 AM   #31
Darren69
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What Flip and Gazza said is worth checking and also hooking neutral before you come to a stop also helps. You get used to it eventually.

I found fitting a much lighter/better quality clutch also greatly improves the feel of the gearbox and finding neutral where it should be and not anywhere else.
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Old 03-06-2017, 01:22 PM   #32
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What oil does she take , level is on the min
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:21 PM   #33
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You can use fully synthetic oil with the dry clutch no risk of slippage. I use Motul 300V 15/50 in my S4 around £15 per litre or I have also used Motul 7100 in the past which is a but cheaper at £10/litre both good oils. I'm led to believe by experts that 300V is probably the best oil, at least for the 4V engines.

Its been so long since I had an air cooled bike, so I don't know which is best and some will advise that it depends on the ambient temperature which weight you use, I would think either of the above should be ok, maybe overkill even.
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:54 PM   #34
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Thanks Darren, not sure what is in it to be honest
Will get one of the weights you recommend and top it up
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:17 PM   #35
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Has 20W50 in Halfords book, only place open on Saturday
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Old 03-06-2017, 04:27 PM   #36
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either 15 or 20W50 should be fine if you can get it at Halfords. 20W50 is just a little bit thicker when cold but both are 50 at 100C.

This was on another forum oil thread:-

"Back in the early to mid 90's, Ducati used to recommend AGIP Sint 2000 10W40 for the two valve bikes. Then a little later switched to AGIP 20W50 Super Racing. When Ducati got Shell sponsorship, they started recommending Shell. But still a 20W50. In warm weather, I recommend the 20W50 and when it gets colder, you can switch to 10W40 to help your motor turn over a little easier."
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:44 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Darren69 View Post
either 15 or 20W50 should be fine if you can get it at Halfords. 20W50 is just a little bit thicker when cold but both are 50 at 100C.

This was on another forum oil thread:-

"Back in the early to mid 90's, Ducati used to recommend AGIP Sint 2000 10W40 for the two valve bikes. Then a little later switched to AGIP 20W50 Super Racing. When Ducati got Shell sponsorship, they started recommending Shell. But still a 20W50. In warm weather, I recommend the 20W50 and when it gets colder, you can switch to 10W40 to help your motor turn over a little easier."
The '93 Monster owners manual [Page 63] says 3.5 litres of Agip 4T Super Racing in the sump and filter. The sticky next to the clutch cover repeats this.

http://agipoil.co.id/product.aspx?t=0&ID=1778

I recently bought oil at Moto Rapido and they now supply Motul 4T 10/40 fully synthetic.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:20 PM   #38
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Shell website recommends 10W40


thanks
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:11 PM   #39
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Sorry for all the Q's

The rear shock is squeaking (under the seat) , some way I can lube this, GT86?

Is there any cubby hold or storage on the bike , I cannot find anywhere
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:39 PM   #40
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The old rear suspension squeak is very hard to locate. I have found that it's usually the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop.
Just a matter of trying to squirt something into all the joints and pivots to lube them up a bit. It may take a little while to penetrate and work properly, so don't despair if it still squeaks immediately after you have lubed it.
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:57 PM   #41
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I think there should be a storage compartment in the seat base itself, where the toolkit is stored. I'm not 100% sure on the early bikes if there was one or how big it its and mine has an aftermarket seat which doesn't have one anyway.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:09 PM   #42
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The old rear suspension squeak is very hard to locate. I have found that it's usually the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop.
Just a matter of trying to squirt something into all the joints and pivots to lube them up a bit. It may take a little while to penetrate and work properly, so don't despair if it still squeaks immediately after you have lubed it.

Thanks , just reading here , they said suspension may collapse

Replace them , don't bother lubing

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/a...p/t-44397.html

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I think there should be a storage compartment in the seat base itself, where the toolkit is stored. I'm not 100% sure on the early bikes if there was one or how big it its and mine has an aftermarket seat which doesn't have one anyway.
Thanks , I dont think anything is under my seat just the plastic guard that sits above the rear wheel hugger! Will take another look
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:23 PM   #43
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Its in the seat itself, in the seat base. The later bikes had a compartment with a lid I'm sure the toolkit goes in there and should be clips for the tank prop too. I don't have either anyway with the Corbin, and the tank prop is pretty poor as it only supports the tank one side it will cause the tank seam to split and leak. So don't use it, use some timber instead.
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:55 PM   #44
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Put some Litium grease on the the Rose joints , squeak stopped ! If it comes back will replace them

Here's underneath my seat , looks like it has a box with 8mm nut on it , you need a 8mm socket to get at the tool Kit lol?

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Old 05-06-2017, 10:04 PM   #45
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It should be a slotted thumb screw the same as the ones used for securing the seat cowl.

Personally I think the squeak comes from the reducer that fits into the rose joint rather than the rose joint itself but it is also worth taking the seat off and rocking the bike a little as the top suspension fulcrum has been known to rub on the seat base.
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