1993 M900- It begins..... - Page 2

23-04-2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacemonkey

Question- my valve covers etc are a dark anthracite grey, yet the 'books' say they should be black. Is this a typical researcher's error, or does any other 93 bikes have the dark grey covers? Anyone found a good paint match for them?

Mine (1993) are dark grey too - when I come back from Halfords I might tell you what matches!

Darren69 · 23-04-2014, 11:29 AM

I think the 'black' covers and side covers are because the original M900 used the 900SS engine which indeed had black, but I suspect they may have changed the colour on later production runs.

spacemonkey · 23-04-2014, 08:34 PM

Thanks guys. Oh, and mine is one of the original ones...

Nothing done today but I did get some allen sockets/keys. Feeling really ill today- everything aches and dizzy spinning head with a constant ringing noise. Like flu but without any chest/nasal symptoms. Weird...

23-04-2014, 09:20 PM

Since yours is 1993 and has grey covers, and mine is Aug 1993 and has grey, I checked Fallon's Belt-Drive guide and the Haynes manual.
All the IMAGES of the first runs had the dark grey covers - not black tho' Fallon incorrectly states they were were black.
Even the VisorDown retro review shows a 1993 with grey: http://www.visordown.com/road-tests-...900/14265.html

spacemonkey · 24-04-2014, 10:47 PM

Hell yeah! I did see a jacket like that. I bet the trousers aren't flared on that suit...

Ok, dark grey covers it is then! Now for a colour match, or close enough...

spacemonkey · 25-04-2014, 09:56 PM

That's right- Alton it was!

I have a build/inspection ticket that I found in the bike somewhere years back and it is dated 10-03-93 at 14:38 hrs. I'll keep an eye out on bike parts as I strip them. Still suffering 'down below' so nothing happening to the bike yet....

Davy · 16-07-2015, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacemonkey

That's right- Alton it was!

I have a build/inspection ticket that I found in the bike somewhere years back and it is dated 10-03-93 at 14:38 hrs. I'll keep an eye out on bike parts as I strip them. Still suffering 'down below' so nothing happening to the bike yet....

Hi spacemonkey. Can you give us an idea of where this ticket might be stashed
I would love to have look to see if I can find It on mine.

spacemonkey · 27-04-2014, 06:31 PM

Right, hit a major stumbling block. Everything is ready to drop the engine. I've separated the shock at the bottom and the rose joints so the back end will lift off but keep the shock and hoop on the frame. The swing arm pivot is drifting out nicely so that good. The big snag is the two engine bolts. They won't shift. The front nut came off, but the main bolt won't shift. I've used plus gas soaking most of the day and I've used my cordless and mains impact guns followed by a 2ft breaker but although the allen socket rotates a few mm, the other side of the bolt doesn't so I'm afraid something is going to shear.

Apart from more plusgas over a couple of days, I'm out of ideas. A blowtorch is out of the question as I am not repainting the frame.

Any ideas? Any stories of bolt removal success or failure after the same siezed situation?

Pedro · 27-04-2014, 07:25 PM

Hi Nick

I had the same issue when I took the front engine bolt out to fit crash bungs, it was just corrosion holding it. Undo the nut a couple of turns then give it a good smack with a drift and two pound tuning fork. Might take a bit of brute force.... Best not to hit the threaded end without the nut still in place to protect the thread

Plenty of plus gas should help.....eventually! Gis a ring if you get stuck, might have something else that will free it

Ped

spacemonkey · 27-04-2014, 09:33 PM

Don't the bolts screw into threads in the frame though? I know the front has a nut, but the rear doesn't.

I've lumped the allen socket into the bolt in 2lb instalments but that didn't help either.

Pedro · 28-04-2014, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacemonkey

Don't the bolts screw into threads in the frame though? I know the front has a nut, but the rear doesn't.

I've lumped the allen socket into the bolt in 2lb instalments but that didn't help either.

The front bolt just slides through the cases, not sure about the back bolt, I think it's a slide fit too - I'll go have a look in my duke manual (genuine not Haynes).

Will let you know

Sirc · 28-04-2014, 10:19 AM

^ from memory I don't think the frame is tapped but I could be wrong - i think there is a tapped (loose) collar instead. You will get there in the end with perseverance - it helps to move the bike next to a sturdy wall and then arrange wood etc to brace between the frame at point of impact and the wall. If you feel like waving the white flag on removing bolt conventionally then as a last resort you can carefully spread the frame enough to get a pad saw/junior hacksaw between the crankcase and the frame to cut through the offending bolt.

slob · 28-04-2014, 05:43 PM

When you hit the bolt with a drift, the whole bike moves a little.
My top tip is get some scaffolding tube between the bike and a wall, then drift the bolt into the tube, that way (almost) all the force transfers into the bolt you're trying to shift.

Sirc · 28-04-2014, 06:19 PM

damn, i'm invisible again..

slob · 28-04-2014, 06:32 PM

Doh! sorry Chris, hard to read the posts properly on my phone (on a moving train)

23-04-2014, 11:29 AM	#2
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,026	I think the 'black' covers and side covers are because the original M900 used the 900SS engine which indeed had black, but I suspect they may have changed the colour on later production runs. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

23-04-2014, 08:34 PM	#3
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Thanks guys. Oh, and mine is one of the original ones... Nothing done today but I did get some allen sockets/keys. Feeling really ill today- everything aches and dizzy spinning head with a constant ringing noise. Like flu but without any chest/nasal symptoms. Weird... __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

24-04-2014, 10:47 PM	#5
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Hell yeah! I did see a jacket like that. I bet the trousers aren't flared on that suit... Ok, dark grey covers it is then! Now for a colour match, or close enough... __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

25-04-2014, 09:56 PM	#6
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	That's right- Alton it was! I have a build/inspection ticket that I found in the bike somewhere years back and it is dated 10-03-93 at 14:38 hrs. I'll keep an eye out on bike parts as I strip them. Still suffering 'down below' so nothing happening to the bike yet.... __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

27-04-2014, 06:31 PM	#8
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Right, hit a major stumbling block. Everything is ready to drop the engine. I've separated the shock at the bottom and the rose joints so the back end will lift off but keep the shock and hoop on the frame. The swing arm pivot is drifting out nicely so that good. The big snag is the two engine bolts. They won't shift. The front nut came off, but the main bolt won't shift. I've used plus gas soaking most of the day and I've used my cordless and mains impact guns followed by a 2ft breaker but although the allen socket rotates a few mm, the other side of the bolt doesn't so I'm afraid something is going to shear. Apart from more plusgas over a couple of days, I'm out of ideas. A blowtorch is out of the question as I am not repainting the frame. Any ideas? Any stories of bolt removal success or failure after the same siezed situation? __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

23-04-2014, 09:20 PM	#4
DrD Guest Posts: n/a	Since yours is 1993 and has grey covers, and mine is Aug 1993 and has grey, I checked Fallon's Belt-Drive guide and the Haynes manual. All the IMAGES of the first runs had the dark grey covers - not black tho' Fallon incorrectly states they were were black. Even the VisorDown retro review shows a 1993 with grey: http://www.visordown.com/road-tests-...900/14265.html

27-04-2014, 07:25 PM	#9
Pedro Ciao, come stai? Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Somewhere Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 4,157	Hi Nick I had the same issue when I took the front engine bolt out to fit crash bungs, it was just corrosion holding it. Undo the nut a couple of turns then give it a good smack with a drift and two pound tuning fork. Might take a bit of brute force.... Best not to hit the threaded end without the nut still in place to protect the thread Plenty of plus gas should help.....eventually! Gis a ring if you get stuck, might have something else that will free it Ped __________________ M900 - 1993! Monster 1200R!

27-04-2014, 09:33 PM	#10
spacemonkey I see dead people. Join Date: May 2003 Location: Carving a slice thru the braindead masses..(pun intended) Bike: M900 Posts: 1,464	Don't the bolts screw into threads in the frame though? I know the front has a nut, but the rear doesn't. I've lumped the allen socket into the bolt in 2lb instalments but that didn't help either. __________________ http://www.jasperfforde.com/swindon/7wonders.html

28-04-2014, 10:19 AM	#12
Sirc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: guildford Bike: M1200R Posts: 370	^ from memory I don't think the frame is tapped but I could be wrong - i think there is a tapped (loose) collar instead. You will get there in the end with perseverance - it helps to move the bike next to a sturdy wall and then arrange wood etc to brace between the frame at point of impact and the wall. If you feel like waving the white flag on removing bolt conventionally then as a last resort you can carefully spread the frame enough to get a pad saw/junior hacksaw between the crankcase and the frame to cut through the offending bolt. __________________ giacca a vento massima

28-04-2014, 05:43 PM	#13
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,713	When you hit the bolt with a drift, the whole bike moves a little. My top tip is get some scaffolding tube between the bike and a wall, then drift the bolt into the tube, that way (almost) all the force transfers into the bolt you're trying to shift.

28-04-2014, 06:19 PM	#14
Sirc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: guildford Bike: M1200R Posts: 370	damn, i'm invisible again.. __________________ giacca a vento massima

28-04-2014, 06:32 PM	#15
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,713	Doh! sorry Chris, hard to read the posts properly on my phone (on a moving train)