A simple series of tests for your rectifier

[Luddite]

Negotiating your way through all the Shindengen R/Rs is a real minefield, Spuggy, especially as Shindengen themselves don't appear to publish a list of all their models and types, (at least I've never managed to find one).

It also doesn't help that, despite producing products with fundamentally different circuitry, Shindengen uses the same labelling system to identify them all - SH775, SH821, SH847 - you can't tell from the model no. which is shunt and which, if any, is series. It would be much simpler if the series type had its own dedicated suffix (they do identify the MOSFET type with an 'F' after all). But that would make life too easy, wouldn't it?!

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Luddite

Negotiating your way through all the Shindengen R/Rs is a real minefield, Spuggy, especially as Shindengen themselves don't appear to publish a list of all their models and types, (at least I've never managed to find one).

Indeed; The closest I've found was this: https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...tifiers.10005/

And although that list is quite useful, the very first entry (for an SH775) is incorrect, as that unit isn't a MOSFET Series R/R....

Originally Posted by Luddite

It also doesn't help that, despite producing products with fundamentally different circuitry, Shindengen uses the same labelling system to identify them all - SH775, SH821, SH847 - you can't tell from the model no. which is shunt and which, if any, is series. It would be much simpler if the series type had its own dedicated suffix (they do identify the MOSFET type with an 'F' after all). But that would make life too easy, wouldn't it?!

LOL... Where would we be if /anyone/ could look up accurate, definitive technical information easily, at the click of a button, eh? Oh, wait, right - pretty much anytime from the tail-end of the 20th Century onwards....

As you appear to have a corporate A/C with those guys (required to open an account/ask web-form questions - understandable given they're 100% OEM/zero retail), would you be in a position to ask for specific datasheets? Or technical questions?


Reason for asking is that the SH775 is an 35A SCR-based series R/R. It used to be dirt-cheap ($60), but now is much more expensive (like $192 as a Polaris OEM part), and is known to have at least one problem;intended for an ATV, it doesn't regulate over some high RPM - variously reported to be 9,000 RPM (strongly disputed by guys who've measured theirs at this), or 10,000 RPM.

In the absence of any real evidence, looks like you could choose what you want to believe:

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/re...-esr279.47773/
https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/a....748962/page-2

And even Jake is only repeating what some customers have told him, apparently https://v4musclebike.com/forums/show...ndengen&page=3

(BTW, page two of that thread has a video of a chap statically rev'ing his bike to 10,000 RPM, and the voltage output from the SH775 remains constant - another guy in the same thread says he had the SH775 fitted and working perfectly for 2 years before he even heard there was supposed to be an issue over 10,000 RPM)...

But it'd be really, really nice to have a definitive statement from ShinDengen... Apparently, some of those Triumph 4's are red-lined at 14,000, 16,000 RPM (wow, ...). I can see how any limit would matter to them.

Jake used to supply the SH775. He now doesn't, and recommends the SH847 instead - because gets them for almost the same money. He has expressed concerns regarding the SH775 and the RPM limit; he isn't convinced that the shutdown it performs when this limit is exceeded (which he states as 9-10K, so quotes 9K to be conservative) is non-harmful to the unit itself. From his POV, the SH775 is potentially problematic for some and very close to the same price as the SH847 - which has more capacity and works with everything...


I can see exactly where he's coming from. but

• the SH775 can be sourced cheaper (like ~50% cost) of the SH847,
• I kind of doubt any intentional unit shutdown is harmful to the unit (resumes regulation as soon as RPM drops back into range, apparently) - I'd be much more concerned if it went over-voltage/over-current/out-of-regulation entirely - and the only reports indicating that this is what it does don't seem especially credible/backed up by any measurements...
• I remain unconvinced that a 10K RPM design limit is a serious issue for most V-twins..

[Flip]

Originally Posted by spuggy

As you appear to have a corporate A/C with those guys (required to open an account/ask web-form questions - understandable given they're 100% OEM/zero retail), would you be in a position to ask for specific datasheets? Or technical questions?[/LIST]

Oh you can ask them what you like via the web form - they just don’t like giving you an answer.

Here’s their response when I asked this:

“Can you please tell me the difference between the FH012AA and the FH020AA which replaced it?“

Fm.Shindengen

Thank you very much for inquiry through our company website.
We are very pleased to answer to your demand.

Our car electric components are customized product for the Motorcycle Manufacturer.
We deeply apologize but due to a trade agreement with the Motorcycle Manufacturer, we are prohibited to sales and disclose any information of our products to customer directly.

We apologize for this inconvenience but please contact with the official sales store of the Motorcycle Manufacturer.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Flip

We deeply apologize but due to a trade agreement with the Motorcycle Manufacturer, we are prohibited to sales and disclose any information of our products to customer directly.

We apologize for this inconvenience but please contact with the official sales store of the Motorcycle Manufacturer.

That is hilarious, it's just a pity that it is also obstructive and totally unhelpful...

[adie851]

Question for you gents....a mate of mine had a MOTOBATT AGM on his bike...told me his bike wouldn't start...took a Lithium with me ( higher CCA ) just to prove battery is probably flat.....he said when trying to start it was just chattering ie rattling the starter sprag..thus insufficient current to spin it over.....the MOTOBATT showing over 12volts but not enough current to spin over the bike....once an AGM battery is flat....ie this one hadn't been charged for months and it was an old battery.....are they beyond being recovered back to a fully charged state.....I've had both good and bad experiences with MOTOBATT over the years....Incidentally , the Lithium fired the bike up straight away...Look forward to your replies.Thanks.

adie851

[Luddite]

It's generally accepted that AGM batteries shouldn't be discharged by more than 50%, (which equates to 11.95v). If left heavily discharged for a long period, it may be impossible to recharge it fully. There are 'hacks' you can try to recover it, for example charging it in parallel with another, healthy, AGM battery. But, if you've any doubts about the battery's health, you're probably better off just replacing it.