Fried Reg/Rectifier

[Kato]

The most likely cause is the three wires from the generator have damaged insulation and are shorting together at higher voltages i.e when the engine is running at higher rpm.

Problem is when they short together the regulator usually gets fried

I would start by replacing the 3 yellow wires all the way back to the generator

[jerry]

The new cheap chinese RR is no good on phase diode is shorted ,, need to get another one not easy here Ducati dealer dont keep spares everything is on back order ,, so stupid .. but honda dealer may have a VFR one ,,,would like a mosfet but that will have to wait till im back in Uk in december

the 3 yellow alternator leads were replaced with heavier guage wire last year ,, stator tests OK ,will get a spare from UK too ,,,, next RR is going to be mounted behind the number plate for better air flow ,,,

[jerry]

shame shindegren dont supply direct to public they seem difficult to source

[jerry]

ive been given 3 2nd hand Reg/Recs

1st is off an R1 is seems to be a schindengren unit its marked FH001

the 2nd looks identical to a ducati one 3 yellow wires 2 red 2 green but there is also a black ??? not sure what the black does .

3rd one is of a honda and looks smaller all 3 test out ok on the bench

gonna try them tommorow

[Kato]

The FH001 is a Shindegren mosfet RR

The key specification details are up to 200volt back voltage on the diodes, 35 amp capacity and 14.4 volt stabilised output.
It handles less amperage than the FH012 but will handle a higher back voltage.

[jerry]

Originally Posted by Kato

The FH001 is a Shindegren mosfet RR

The key specification details are up to 200volt back voltage on the diodes, 35 amp capacity and 14.4 volt stabilised output.
It handles less amperage than the FH012 but will handle a higher back voltage.

what size fuse do you reckon ????

[Kato]

OK FH001 is an early unit circa 2003? will be ok with 30amp main fuse, the good news in that its old kit is you deffo wont have one of the chinese fakes that are all over ebay

[jerry]

The Shindengen Regdid not work on the bike ? tests good on the bencg ????

the reg with extra black wire worked but was giving 17v at battery so thats no good ???

the last on which ws probably off some honda ?? works ok its giving a max voltage of 13,4v at the battery , but the battery is fully charged .. i have mounted it behind rhe number plate with a 5mm aluminiumheatsink backing plate so it gets good air flow rather than under the seat ,,

bike has had about 45 mile run is running smooth as silk although the Tacho is still a bit weird at tick over its on 1000rpm but at speed it never seems to go above 4000 rpm ??

[jerry]

new reg has died it started puming out 18v ??? no good

im gonna have another try with schindengen yamaha one as it may not have been making proper contact as i dont have correst connectors ,, will solder wires on ,,and test

might have to write off the whole trip as im back to UK on 6 dec .totally pissed off ...riding my bike is the only thing that makes me happy here ...apart from Jonny Walker and ice ...



BUT now THE SHINDENGEN YAMAHA UNIT is working i mounted it back under the seat on my big aluminium heatsink its chaging 13,4v at 1000rpm and at 4-5k its stable at 14,4v max and the Reg does not get red hot either so lets hope it holds out for next 3 weeks ??

other problem is that the tacho shows max revs and rev limiter at 6000rpm should be 9k+ and the engine is hittiing 9k by the sound and the bike is hitting max speeds so the rev counter is under reading at 4000rpm it seem to show about 2700rpm have I damaged it can it be calibrated ???

[alan s4]

That's me fitted the R1 reg/rect and the Triumph leads, what a difference:



Just over 14v at idle and rising steadily as the revs increase. For comparison my new electrex unit was generating just 12.5v at idle.

No more Jumpy rev counter either

I'm hoping that this is the long term fix I've been looking for. Thanks to Kato for the original post.

[jerry]

im now getting a solid 14.1v at idle and up to a max 14,4v so used 2003 yamaha FH1 RR sems to be good ,,

but tacho is way off its fine at idle but everywhere else its reading low most of the time sits at 3k ???

[Jez900ie]

Originally Posted by Kato

This is for bikes with the discreet 3-phase Stator/Generator and Rectifier/Regulator arrangement (Three yellow wires)

Most of us at some point have experienced problems with OEM Regulator/Rectifier used on pretty much the whole Ducati range, so time to do something about replacing the standard equipment R/R with a more efficient component.
I’m assuming that your R/R has failed at this point but no reason you couldn’t do as a preventive measure / upgrade if you were bored could be done in under an hour

First a basic troubleshooting process to determine whether you have a charging system failure.

A good Multi-meter is a pre-requisite.


Record your battery voltage under the follow conditions
1) Ignition off, unloaded battery.
2) Ignition on, headlights on, not running
3) Bike started, running at idle

Condition 1, should be at least in the high 12.x range if fully charged.

Condition 2, your voltage should not drop much below 12.0 at worst. (It may continue to drop – hopefully slowly! – As your lights will be discharging it. However this should be a slow decline)

If it does drop immediately into the 11’s, your battery is insufficiently charged – if it was just charged from a battery charger however, then it indicates your battery no longer has sufficient capacity to retain charge/supply current to load and should be replaced.

Condition 3 is what we are most interested in with respect to charging capability.
Voltage should be at least in the 13’s at all engine rpm. You may detect it will fall off slightly as you raise engine rpm. This is not atypical performance. A simple mod that can enhance your charging voltage to the battery can be achieved by this modification outlined in this thread. That should give you performance in the 14V+ range.

What if you have less than 13V?
First thing to check is the fuse in the charging circuit.

Next, examine the wires and connectors between the R/R output and the R/R input – are these charred/melted due to excessive heating? This is fairly common result of poor connection between the terminals.

A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & green wired pins NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias) but it must absolutely not be a short. If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective.

Next, do a resistance check on the stator (check at the cable connector going back towards the stator itself).
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2
2-3
3-1
This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)

This next check is probably the simplest/quickest way of determining a stator problem - in majority of cases a bad stator will be indicated by failing following test:
Check resistance from any one pin to the engine earth – this should not read any indication – maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read ‘short’ in that last test, then your stator is .
(if open, it is not quite guaranteed your stator is good however - but in majority of cases a failed stator will fail this isolation test)

As all this info is a few years old, is there now a complete kit that can be bought which is plug and play? Anyone have a link?

Switching the whole system seems like a good thing to take care of during the dark months. Plus some of these cables Yes/No?

Electrickery really isn't my thing so any advice very welcome!

[alan s4]

The Kato method is plug and play.....keep reading the original post. Order the triumph part and there is no need to splice any cables or carry out any alterations. I swapped my RR a year ago (with the triumph cable) and it's been fine ever since.

[Jez900ie]

Now installed and working well. Thanks Kato and all other contributors.

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by DrD

Q: Not all these regulators support the charge light on the console - does this one you are using?

Did this ever get answered?
I'd like to keep the charge light working on my 97 M900.

Also, has anyone actually tried this conversion on a 2-wire, single phase Monster?

Thanks

Nasher.