UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » Clutch Retaining Tool

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Old 09-07-2018, 12:26 PM   #16
TonyG
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Is it ok to reuse the big rubber o ring that sits somewhere behind the clutch centre? I ordered what I thought was the correct one with part number but received a tiny little on that can't be right.

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Old 09-07-2018, 01:54 PM   #17
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??? There's a big oil seal between the case and clutch drive gear but you shouldn't be digging that deep. There are a couple of o-rings that should be fine to reuse as long as they're not damaged
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Old 09-07-2018, 02:10 PM   #18
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TonyG

Are you talking about #15 or #32 here?:


Or possibly #18 here?:
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Old 09-07-2018, 06:06 PM   #19
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Hi,

I guess I'm asking about 32 and 15, do either get disturbed removing the clutch centre?

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Old 09-07-2018, 06:32 PM   #20
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My workshop manual also shows a part 26 just behind the top hat that fits in the pressure plate bearing which is another o ring, but I don't think it had one of those when it came out.

Last edited by TonyG; 09-07-2018 at 06:58 PM..
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Old 09-07-2018, 07:33 PM   #21
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My workshop manual also shows a part 26 just behind the top hat that fits in the pressure plate bearing which is another o ring, but I don't think it had one of those when it came out.
Just went out and had a look and can see the no 26 o ring sitting around the pushrod, so that's fine, and it is just those other 2, do I shift either of those when I remove the clutch centre?

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Old 12-07-2018, 02:37 PM   #22
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Just went out and had a look and can see the no 26 o ring sitting around the pushrod, so that's fine, and it is just those other 2, do I shift either of those when I remove the clutch centre?

Thanks
#32 comes out with the hub, #15 is underneath the hub and doesn't come out with it.

Whilst it's good practice to replace them I doubt there'd be anything wrong with them or that you'd get any leaks if you leave them, on the other hand it's cheap insurance.

Make sure you use some sealant on the clutch basket bolts (if you're removing it?) or oil might seep through the threads.
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Old 14-07-2018, 05:21 PM   #23
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I had the clutch inner replaced today. Noticed that when I put all the plates back in I had a tiny bit less clearance left on the splines then with the old clutch centre, so less for the pressure plate to engage on. Using a tyre tread measuring tool there now seems to be about 2mm for the pressure plate to engage on whereas before it was about 3mm. Could just be wear at the back of the old clutch centre I suppose.
Looks like the pressure would disengage from the splines when the clutch is pulled in.

https://s20.postimg.cc/70zcgftnx/SAM_0729.jpg

Last edited by TonyG; 15-07-2018 at 07:14 PM..
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Old 14-07-2018, 06:46 PM   #24
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My manual states clutch hub is part no 19610012B for M1100s. Various Ducati stores state that no or 19610011D. Is here a difference?

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Old 15-07-2018, 11:34 AM   #25
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Make sure you use some sealant on the clutch basket bolts (if you're removing it?) or oil might seep through the threads.
According to the manual of the early bikes it states that blue thread lock should be used for the basket fixings.

As an aside for cheap insurances- it may be worth swapping out the pressure plate bearing and fitting a new one for the tenner or so it costs for a decent quality new one.

Remember they are C3 clearance when ordering from a bearing supplier.
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Old 15-07-2018, 11:43 AM   #26
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According to the manual of the early bikes it states that blue thread lock should be used for the basket fixings.
It does, however threebond was not available then - you don't need a threadlocker, those 8 bolts are not coming udone but oil could leak through the threads. I suppose threadlock would stop oil anyway so either is good.
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