Replacing carbs for M600

[gallardo]

Hi all,

Looking at the second hand market to replace the carbs in my M600 (Yr 2000). Does anyone have any recommendations withougt costing me an arm + leg?

Thanks!

[900Rebuilder]

Originally Posted by gallardo

Hi all,

Looking at the second hand market to replace the carbs in my M600 (Yr 2000). Does anyone have any recommendations withougt costing me an arm + leg?

Thanks!

I think your options are rebuild what you have, try your luck on another secondhand set or buy some flatslides. Probably better to try and sort your carbs tbh unless they are totally knackered

[gallardo]

Originally Posted by 900Rebuilder

I think your options are rebuild what you have, try your luck on another secondhand set or buy some flatslides. Probably better to try and sort your carbs tbh unless they are totally knackered

Thank you! What's the best way of sorting them out? Rejetting them?

[jamminbmx]

Carefully taking them to pieces, ultrasonic cleaning and rebuilding with new O-Rings and any other bits that look like they need replacement. Its not hard if you take your time but it can get pricey. The jets etc are made of really soft metal so you have to be very patient!

Second hand carbs are a minefield of rounded things. I would check yours first!

[900Rebuilder]

The killer is the pilot air screws being seized in place

[350TSS]

^^^^^ and/or the pilot jet screwdriver slot only having one side intact

[900Rebuilder]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

^^^^^ and/or the pilot jet screwdriver slot only having one side intact

Going forward Monsters are going to struggle to stay on the road due to these kind of carb issues

[tridentperu]

Yep, the pilot air screws suffer/ corrode and get stuck but originally there was a rubber bung over them, it is listed in the ducati spares book but at a stupid price. i suspect most have disappeared over the years hence the corrosion issue.

I measured the hole diameter (6.5mm) and bought a bag of five silicone bungs off ebay for about 2 quid inc postage, all I had to do was shorten them a bit and they fit right in. I put some acf50 of there first too, just to be on the safe side.

Jim

[900Rebuilder]

Originally Posted by tridentperu

Yep, the pilot air screws suffer/ corrode and get stuck but originally there was a rubber bung over them, it is listed in the ducati spares book but at a stupid price. i suspect most have disappeared over the years hence the corrosion issue.

I measured the hole diameter (6.5mm) and bought a bag of five silicone bungs off ebay for about 2 quid inc postage, all I had to do was shorten them a bit and they fit right in. I put some acf50 of there first too, just to be on the safe side.

Jim

Very good idea! Unfortunately many have seized by now and been mullered in the process of trying to remove the screw making the carbs useless unless there is another way of removing them.

[Sirc]

although sacrificial, there is one approach which, apart from very carefully machining out the seized idle mixture screw** and then hooking out the remaining brass thread shreds*, is the best method for me after all these years, and that is to remove the top part of the tubular extension cast into the carb body leaving the top part of the idle mixture screw/jet exposed. Only now can you finally get hold of the screw and start to carefully free it off. Best method for me was to file to opposing flats so that a tight-fitting open ended spanner could be used. How much of the **you remove is a careful decision as you do have to encroach on the threaded part of the idle mixture screw in order to expose enough to get a grip on.

Heat can help sometimes with lightly seized screws but rarely had success myself, plus risk of distortion and permanent damage.

* a time-consuming horrible task, and the last part isn't always successful - reluctantly I would then use a tap but unless you have cleared the majority of shreds there is no guarantee that the tap will pick up the thread correctly in such soft material.

[350TSS]

I had success on a ZX9R by a) drilling a 1.0mm hole into the casting below the level of the top of the jet until I could just discern the brass of the jet then over a period of about a week regularly dousing the hole with a mixture of 50% acetone/50% diesel (apparently Automatic Transmission Fluid also works but I have never tried it).
I have also, when the head of the jet has lost its slot, junior hacksawed the casting away such that the head of the jet is exposed then hacksawed a new screwdriver slot in the top. The penetrating mixture is again also a part of the process

[Sirc]

soaking with anything you care to name rarely works ime, i still have about 4 pairs still seized after literally years of soaking.