Loose connector FH001 regulator

jerry · 14-11-2018, 12:19 AM

A common modification on many Ducatis is to fit a Shindengren type MOSFET Regulator either FH001 ,FH020 or FH012 etc they are not the usual old shunt type and can handle the heat problem much better and smoother,,

They are usually onnected by Furukawa connectors ,, but sometimes they can get loose feed connector from Alternator and different models of the shindegren Regulators have slightly different locating slots , especially if supplyed for yamahas ,,

my S4 has thes mods and its much more reliable in hot Thailand however the main feed from Alternator sometimes gets loose due to the location pins on regulator being for a yamaha R1 , i have modified the slot but as a back up i also place a tie wrap around the connector to lock it against the body of the regulator ,, this is not a problem on the output furukawa connector to battery its not model sensitve ,,,

just a tip , its definitely worth using MOSFET RR My S4 has killed 4 shunt types over last 14 years .

But my M750 in UK and my 2 wire 750ss both have original Shunt types one is 27 years old the other 18 , I think that having them out in front may be the answer as they run cooler ,, The S4 has its RR behind engine under the seat ,, much hotter ,, I have also tried relocating shunt one in the past to front of bike and also rear behind nunber plate but mad eno difference they still got to hot on the S4 in Thailand ,, but the MOSFET one seems more able to handle heat

jerry · 15-11-2018, 11:34 AM

sadly the dodgy furkawa connector has damaged the RR internals ,, the diodes all test ok and the alternator is A1 ,, but the RR is now intermittant and cant be trusted on a long run so i have ordered a replacement and some more furukawa connectors , but i may go back to insulated spades as it ran perfectly for 3 years with them it ws only after fitting the furkawa connector that problems beagn

10-01-2019, 11:39 PM

Greetings all, been a long time since I posted. Wish I'd kept up to date as I found so much useful information after the fact.

Was out riding the other day and my bike cut out, smelt something bad. Removed the seat to see smoke billowing out from the crankcase breather box.

Finally discovered the issue I've been having with my bike cutting out for the last year, and frying the odd battery.

After some reading on here and other forums, I have brought a Shindengen SH847 Series regulator from Jack@roadstercycle.com and plan to remove the stator connector entirely. I plan to mount under the seat as per original but am hoping the series electronics will mean the unit doesn't run as hot.

Has anyone fitted a SH847?

jerry · 11-01-2019, 04:24 AM

SH847 is used on Suzukis and triumphs but should work just as well as SH020 or Sh012 which were used on Yamahas ,and some Kwaks its the Mosfet tech that makes them better at handling current and heat than the old shunt type ,, so long as its genuine Schindengren and not a fake .

14-11-2018, 12:19 AM	#1
jerry Old Git Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cricklade Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,803	Loose connector FH001 regulator A common modification on many Ducatis is to fit a Shindengren type MOSFET Regulator either FH001 ,FH020 or FH012 etc they are not the usual old shunt type and can handle the heat problem much better and smoother,, They are usually onnected by Furukawa connectors ,, but sometimes they can get loose feed connector from Alternator and different models of the shindegren Regulators have slightly different locating slots , especially if supplyed for yamahas ,, my S4 has thes mods and its much more reliable in hot Thailand however the main feed from Alternator sometimes gets loose due to the location pins on regulator being for a yamaha R1 , i have modified the slot but as a back up i also place a tie wrap around the connector to lock it against the body of the regulator ,, this is not a problem on the output furukawa connector to battery its not model sensitve ,,, just a tip , its definitely worth using MOSFET RR My S4 has killed 4 shunt types over last 14 years . But my M750 in UK and my 2 wire 750ss both have original Shunt types one is 27 years old the other 18 , I think that having them out in front may be the answer as they run cooler ,, The S4 has its RR behind engine under the seat ,, much hotter ,, I have also tried relocating shunt one in the past to front of bike and also rear behind nunber plate but mad eno difference they still got to hot on the S4 in Thailand ,, but the MOSFET one seems more able to handle heat __________________ MONSTERMAN

15-11-2018, 11:34 AM	#2
jerry Old Git Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cricklade Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,803	sadly the dodgy furkawa connector has damaged the RR internals ,, the diodes all test ok and the alternator is A1 ,, but the RR is now intermittant and cant be trusted on a long run so i have ordered a replacement and some more furukawa connectors , but i may go back to insulated spades as it ran perfectly for 3 years with them it ws only after fitting the furkawa connector that problems beagn __________________ MONSTERMAN

11-01-2019, 04:24 AM	#4
jerry Old Git Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cricklade Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,803	SH847 is used on Suzukis and triumphs but should work just as well as SH020 or Sh012 which were used on Yamahas ,and some Kwaks its the Mosfet tech that makes them better at handling current and heat than the old shunt type ,, so long as its genuine Schindengren and not a fake . __________________ MONSTERMAN

10-01-2019, 11:39 PM	#3
spm23 Guest Posts: n/a	Greetings all, been a long time since I posted. Wish I'd kept up to date as I found so much useful information after the fact. Was out riding the other day and my bike cut out, smelt something bad. Removed the seat to see smoke billowing out from the crankcase breather box. Finally discovered the issue I've been having with my bike cutting out for the last year, and frying the odd battery. After some reading on here and other forums, I have brought a Shindengen SH847 Series regulator from Jack@roadstercycle.com and plan to remove the stator connector entirely. I plan to mount under the seat as per original but am hoping the series electronics will mean the unit doesn't run as hot. Has anyone fitted a SH847?