Setting the Gear Selector.

PPuxley · 15-08-2021, 03:35 PM

Would anyone like to advise the correct way to set the internal gear selector mechanism ? Or little quirks or tips to get the claws adjusted correctly.

Im have read both the Factory manual method (set at 3rd gear) and the Haynes (set at 2nd gear), which inevitably are different!

Im not getting crisp selection into all the gears consistently using the mechanism

I am happy that the selector drum is moving the forks around correctly inside the gearbox, because all the gears are there and work when the selector drum is rotated by hand to each detent position.

But using the mechanism I am not getting the claws to consistently pull/push the drum to the next detent position.

I have set the geachange arm pin centrally (although I note it wasnt central when dismantled)

and in 3rd gear I have ensured equal travel for the claw ends from the pins.

Im just wondering whether there is a known "best" way to do this that isnt in the manuals?

Dukedesmo · 15-08-2021, 03:59 PM

AFAIK the official way is to use a special tool, this fits over the mechanism and has a line on it that you then align with the line on the pawl in 2nd gear.

Failing this set it centrally in second gear* - at least that's what I have done. Though as my engine is currently in the same state as yours I've not been able to test it and I can't get a clean shift into every gear by hand, every time but it mostly works. I think this is normal when the engine is not running and that once the shafts are spinning, everything will be much smoother?

As it happens I carefully marked the position of mine before removal by scribing around the mounting plate and my best guess fit is pretty much bang on the scribed lines so I'm hoping it'll be OK.

Need to get it running to be sure though...

* Consider that 'centrally' is not the (visual) centre of the detent plate curve, rather the centre between the location/actuation points on the drum, FWIW I measured these as being 12mm apart whilst the mechanism has around 17mm of movement.

PPuxley · 15-08-2021, 04:20 PM

Thanks DD. Sounds pretty much where I am. I was also expecting it to be better when everything is spinning, and with it only being a casing removal to re-adjust, I think I am pretty much there for now, then.
Ive rather taken my off the ball with the starter and need to get it painted up so I can finish the engine build

damien666 · 16-08-2021, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

AFAIK the official way is to use a special tool, this fits over the mechanism and has a line on it that you then align with the line on the pawl in 2nd gear.

Failing this set it centrally in second gear* - at least that's what I have done. Though as my engine is currently in the same state as yours I've not been able to test it and I can't get a clean shift into every gear by hand, every time but it mostly works. I think this is normal when the engine is not running and that once the shafts are spinning, everything will be much smoother?

As it happens I carefully marked the position of mine before removal by scribing around the mounting plate and my best guess fit is pretty much bang on the scribed lines so I'm hoping it'll be OK.

Need to get it running to be sure though...

* Consider that 'centrally' is not the (visual) centre of the detent plate curve, rather the centre between the location/actuation points on the drum, FWIW I measured these as being 12mm apart whilst the mechanism has around 17mm of movement.

An example of the tool,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164640271856

PPuxley · 16-08-2021, 06:59 AM

Thanks. Although, looking at it I can't immediately see how it is used.

Dukedesmo · 16-08-2021, 07:38 AM

Interesting, I assumed it was a Ducati only tool that would not be readily available.

That said, now that I have the side covers on I might as well see if it works when running as, other than draining the oil, the amount of work involved to use the tool would be the same.

slob · 16-08-2021, 07:51 AM

the two holes on the tool fit over the pins on the selector drum and the edge of the tool lines up with a notch on the pawl. this tool has since been superceded by a different one (88713.3334), which i think is much harder to use.

if you’re eyes are good, getting the line on the pawl centred between two pins works fine.
just get a gear lever on the splines and mske sure you can run up and down the gears before putting everything else back in the case.

PPuxley · 16-08-2021, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

make sure you can run up and down the gears before putting everything else back in the case.

Well, thats what I cant do consistently , yet, so I will have another go at adjusting it.
Ive made myself up a lever, from a spare short lever end.

slob · 16-08-2021, 03:44 PM

don't mean to teach granny to suck eggs but you are spinning the gearbox whilst doing it I assume?

PPuxley · 16-08-2021, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

don't mean to teach granny to suck eggs but you are spinning the gearbox whilst doing it I assume?

All comments gratefully accepted, but, yes Im turning the sprocket spline.........but maybe it would be better to turn the mainshaft???

slob · 16-08-2021, 04:37 PM

I don't think that'll make any difference

15-08-2021, 03:35 PM	#1
PPuxley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Reading Bike: M900 Posts: 600	Setting the Gear Selector. Would anyone like to advise the correct way to set the internal gear selector mechanism ? Or little quirks or tips to get the claws adjusted correctly. Im have read both the Factory manual method (set at 3rd gear) and the Haynes (set at 2nd gear), which inevitably are different! Im not getting crisp selection into all the gears consistently using the mechanism I am happy that the selector drum is moving the forks around correctly inside the gearbox, because all the gears are there and work when the selector drum is rotated by hand to each detent position. But using the mechanism I am not getting the claws to consistently pull/push the drum to the next detent position. I have set the geachange arm pin centrally (although I note it wasnt central when dismantled) and in 3rd gear I have ensured equal travel for the claw ends from the pins. Im just wondering whether there is a known "best" way to do this that isnt in the manuals? __________________ Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop.

15-08-2021, 03:59 PM	#2
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,842	AFAIK the official way is to use a special tool, this fits over the mechanism and has a line on it that you then align with the line on the pawl in 2nd gear. Failing this set it centrally in second gear* - at least that's what I have done. Though as my engine is currently in the same state as yours I've not been able to test it and I can't get a clean shift into every gear by hand, every time but it mostly works. I think this is normal when the engine is not running and that once the shafts are spinning, everything will be much smoother? As it happens I carefully marked the position of mine before removal by scribing around the mounting plate and my best guess fit is pretty much bang on the scribed lines so I'm hoping it'll be OK. Need to get it running to be sure though... * Consider that 'centrally' is not the (visual) centre of the detent plate curve, rather the centre between the location/actuation points on the drum, FWIW I measured these as being 12mm apart whilst the mechanism has around 17mm of movement. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

15-08-2021, 04:20 PM	#3
PPuxley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Reading Bike: M900 Posts: 600	Thanks DD. Sounds pretty much where I am. I was also expecting it to be better when everything is spinning, and with it only being a casing removal to re-adjust, I think I am pretty much there for now, then. Ive rather taken my off the ball with the starter and need to get it painted up so I can finish the engine build __________________ Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop. Last edited by PPuxley; 15-08-2021 at 09:17 PM..

16-08-2021, 06:59 AM	#5
PPuxley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Reading Bike: M900 Posts: 600	Thanks. Although, looking at it I can't immediately see how it is used. __________________ Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop.

16-08-2021, 07:38 AM	#6
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,842	Interesting, I assumed it was a Ducati only tool that would not be readily available. That said, now that I have the side covers on I might as well see if it works when running as, other than draining the oil, the amount of work involved to use the tool would be the same. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

16-08-2021, 07:51 AM	#7
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	the two holes on the tool fit over the pins on the selector drum and the edge of the tool lines up with a notch on the pawl. this tool has since been superceded by a different one (88713.3334), which i think is much harder to use. if you’re eyes are good, getting the line on the pawl centred between two pins works fine. just get a gear lever on the splines and mske sure you can run up and down the gears before putting everything else back in the case.

16-08-2021, 03:44 PM	#9
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	don't mean to teach granny to suck eggs but you are spinning the gearbox whilst doing it I assume?

16-08-2021, 04:37 PM	#11
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	I don't think that'll make any difference