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Old 23-07-2019, 11:00 AM   #1
davkyt
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So, time to press the button.......

https://youtu.be/4mmz5_-0VAQ
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Old 23-07-2019, 11:20 AM   #2
Darren69
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Battery flat or no good.
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Old 23-07-2019, 11:22 AM   #3
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Yeah, it sounded good for half a turn and the battery just gave up.

Can anyone recommend a decent replacement?
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Old 23-07-2019, 12:47 PM   #4
Darren69
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Motobatt or Yuasa. Is the 1200 battery hard to get out?
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Old 23-07-2019, 01:11 PM   #5
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I think so.
I think it’s inside the underneath of the swing arm
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Old 23-07-2019, 01:49 PM   #6
utopia
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That sounds well flat, right from the start ... sorry, right from the "beginning".
I'm not surprised it didn't fire up.
Also, it looks like your battery tender is flashing as you press the start button .. ie its still connected.
I'm not a great electrician myself but I don't think its recommended to try starting with the tender still connected.

Also, bear in mind that you'll almost certainly need to crank it for quite a while to allow the fuel pump to fill the float bowls before it will fire up after such a long period of standing idle.
Somewhere between 30 secs and a minute, I would estimate.
The alternative would be filling them manually using a syringe.
Or ... I've never done it myself but it might be worth removing the plugs to allow it to crank the fuel pump more easily, before going for another start (if you're scratching for battery juice, that is).
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Old 23-07-2019, 02:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utopia View Post
That sounds well flat, right from the start ... sorry, right from the "beginning".
I'm not surprised it didn't fire up.
Also, it looks like your battery tender is flashing as you press the start button .. ie its still connected.
I'm not a great electrician myself but I don't think its recommended to try starting with the tender still connected.

Also, bear in mind that you'll almost certainly need to crank it for quite a while to allow the fuel pump to fill the float bowls before it will fire up after such a long period of standing idle.
Somewhere between 30 secs and a minute, I would estimate.
The alternative would be filling them manually using a syringe.
Or ... I've never done it myself but it might be worth removing the plugs to allow it to crank the fuel pump more easily, before going for another start (if you're scratching for battery juice, that is).
I was thinking the same thing earlier, its gonna take a lot of cranking to get the juice flowing. I read that jump starting from a car is not advisable because of damaging the ignition boxes but is that with the car running? Surely a car battery on its own wont damage anything and may have more oomph to get the fuel primed?
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Old 23-07-2019, 03:28 PM   #8
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I’ve got an LMT Li Ion. Braw they are and light AF. Check if it works with your bike tho I don’t want to be held responsible for bikes going on fire.
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Old 23-07-2019, 03:54 PM   #9
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Hmmm .. I can just about decipher your banter there, Ron.

Also I guess, if you've been painting the engine an' stuff, it might be worth checking that there are no electrical connections through engine or chassis that are now compromised by a layer of paint, thus causing the starter to struggle.
Though if the threads of the bolt are clean it should connect well enough that way, I suppose.
Worth a check while you're waiting for the battery to recharge, anyway.

I also have a lithium battery on my 750, and it jumps into life as soon as your finger merely approaches the start button .. as long as the floatbowls are full .. and the starter solenoid connection hasn't popped orf.
Saves 5.45 kg over the original, wet, 16AL-A2.
Yep, that's nearly FIVE AND A HALF BLOOMIN' KILOS.
And a faster crank, as Ron says.
Though some would claim there's a risk in fitting one.
And they apparently don't like cold weather or ever being fully discharged ... though I've never had any probs.
Lithium, iron phosphate .. LiFePO4 is the spec to go for .. not lithium ion.
There'll be a thread if you search.
Something to read anyway ... also while you're waiting for the battery to recharge.
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Old 23-07-2019, 04:06 PM   #10
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Yeah you need to be wary turning it over when the battery is that flat- that clicking is the solenoid getting very close to not returning so it would stay making contact trying to turn the starter motor after you’ve released the button, at that point you risk damaging the sprag clutch.

Incidentally, in my experience as long as the motor spins up fast enough i.e. with a fully charged battery, good ground connections and assuming the vacuum tap and fuel pump are both working properly then they should fill the float bowls fairly quickly- we’ll within three ten second presses of the starter.

A couple of years back when I did a little refresh where I replaced the fuel lines and said vacuum tap/pump my bike started almost instantly even with it having to prime it all with empty carbs.

It’s looking really good by the way- credit to you!
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Old 23-07-2019, 04:50 PM   #11
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The battery has been screwed for years anyway, pretty much on permanent charge for the last 4 years.
I’ll get one of those Motobatt off eBay for £65
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Old 23-07-2019, 05:43 PM   #12
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Yea motobatts are good for a couple of years of regular usr and you may get a bit longer life fron a yuasa they still need replacing every 3 years or so anyway. Id be wart of lithium batteries as they are more sensitive to charging and have a tendancy to explode if overcharged! Given ducatis somewhat weak charging system is too much of a risk in my eyes.
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Old 23-07-2019, 05:53 PM   #13
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,*wary i meant. If you've not upgraded the battery leads then i would look into that too. Its supposed to improve cold cranking and is on my bucket list
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Old 23-07-2019, 06:40 PM   #14
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The Motobatt has been on my Monster since August 2012 and still going strong, this is only (so far) bettered by the original Yuasa which lasted from 1997 to 2009. So thinking twelve years was very good I replaced it with another but that only lasted the three years in between so switched to the yellow ones.

As for the leads, they made a massive difference on my 900 giving a much faster spin up and therefore instant firing instead of the previous steam engine impression when turning the motor over.

Exact UK do a kit and Stuart will give a discount to UKMOC members if you contact him first PayPal as a gift payment.

Personally I had the parts at work so made my own for all the power and ground (earth) leads.

As an aside Stuart also discounts the Exact timing belts which give an extra year over the Ducati ones making those services a little cheaper.

www.exactuk.com/
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Old 23-07-2019, 07:40 PM   #15
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I'm a year behind you Flip. My Motobatt has been on 6 years almost to the day.
It went on the bike straight out of the box and has still never been on a charger.

It's not always the fitting of new starter and earth leads that makes the difference. Cleaning all the connections will often achieve the same improvement unless the original leads are of inadequate section or internally corroded.
An annual inspection and clean up helps keep them on top too...The one to keep an eye on is the starter terminal, which, if it has a rubber boot, will fill up with water and rot.
Pack the boot with grease.

Utopia has it with the paint blocking a good earth path. Powder coated frames in particular are swines for this, as the coating insulates the frame, unless you are particular about filing it off where bolts seat.
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