Another build thread - Ducati 1000 - Page 9

buzzer · 10-07-2021, 10:15 AM

well the tank came back from the blasters… as you can see its full of pin holes, and for the first time in over 40 years of repairing tanks I feel I have been beaten! there is no point in trying to repair this! I put a light inside to shop the extent of the corrosion. look after your tanks guys!

walkingpictures · 10-07-2021, 11:25 AM

Wow,that's well knackered Tony!!! What's the plan,find another one the same or maybe a different type of tank?

Kimbo

buzzer · 10-07-2021, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walkingpictures

Wow,that's well knackered Tony!!! What's the plan,find another one the same or maybe a different type of tank?

Kimbo

I have a perfect one, but I am reluctant to cut it up... So the plan is to use the perforated tank on the mock up of the bike and look around for a damaged one. I have bought a couple in the past for £50 as they were damaged so I will keep looking for another, I have plenty of time!

buzzer · 12-07-2021, 01:31 PM

Started the frame modifications, just tacked up at the moment. On this build I want to keep the seat height right for me, but also allow for an under seat exhaust and a seat long enough for a pillion. I have replaced the shocker with a strut at the moment so I can see what things look like at max and min travel.

buzzer · 19-07-2021, 11:49 AM

on my last build I run a pair of FCR carbs, it runs really well so for this build I chose the same carbs, but this time decided to bolt them together, and use a common split spindle to control the slides. this means I can use a single pull/ pull throttle arrangement, instead of the 4 cables system I used before. It also means I can run a TPS on the end of the spindle.

I thought it would be easy, I got some 8mm silver steel for the spindle, and a couple of new bearings with seals instead of the closed cup bearings… unfortunately the threads on the locating pins into the spindle is an unusual thread and I couldn’t find a tap… so I had to make some new pins as well… All done now though, including a linkage in the middle so I can balance the carbs .

I have also made some new velocity stacks to accommodate some foam filters… there is a few hours work in those! and a pile of swarf!

Short video to demonstrate how I hand turn the bellmouth on the stacks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot4jIKXcFuI

PPuxley · 19-07-2021, 12:04 PM

Great work as ever!

buzzer · 23-07-2021, 09:03 AM

To mount the carbs I needed to make some alloy custom manifolds. I made these using the pie /lobster cut method. I set the chop saw to 7 degrees and cut off a selection of pieces and tape them together until I have the right shape… I then mark the position of each and weld them together, ensuring I have good penetration, which I then grind off inside to make them smooth. the long bur in the picture is a beast to use!

Onto the tank. I managed to source a very clean 999 tank, but of course this is too long for the build… so out came the angle grinder and off came the back! measure twice cut once!. I then fabricated a new back end and welded it into place. When welding stuff like this, everything needs to be clean for a good half inch either side of the weld, so I clean both sides with emery paper, and use to carb cleaner to ensure there is no grease… also wipe the welding rod with some as well…

Once the back/side piece was in place I planished the sides so the new piece had the same radius as the tank. then I welded the bottom in. to test for leaks I use two methods… some dye penetrant and developer, and if it passes this test, I do a final check with air at just 3 PSI and squirt it with soapy water.

buzzer · 24-07-2021, 07:16 PM

one of the most difficult things I find to make on a bike is the seat… this one i have used a different approach as (a) its a dual seat and (b) I am making the base out of aluminium. I mocked up what I wanted in cardboard first, and then transferred the patterns onto some 3mm aluminium. Then I seam welded it… It came out ok, be interesting to see what its like once its to the final shape and the foam and cover is on!

buzzer · 01-08-2021, 09:46 AM

Next job will be the exhaust system but to do this I needed a silencer to get the mock up right… I wanted a small slim silencer, that was re-packable, and that I could fit a baffle come MOT time… and a bit retro/old school. I searched but couldn’t find any suitable, they were all too wide as I want an under seat, side mounted setup. so I modified a cheap (£16!) stainless steel one off eBay. I would have loved to have made one from scratch but don’t have a cone roller, and to buy a ready made stainless cone is expensive. the hardest part of making this was actually drilling three holes for the bolts to hold the end cone in. the stainless is incredibly hard! after blunting 3 new drills, and buying a cobalt drill and that not touching it, I ended up making a punch and die and punching the holes!

Darkness · 01-08-2021, 10:12 AM

That looks a lot like the S+S exhaust I had on a ‘70s Honda. It used to shear the pop rivets regularly and I lost a few end caps!

I didn’t put the wadding back, but had to pack some wire wool into it for MOTs. That used to last the journey to and from the test centre with restraint going there, and lumps of burning wire wool spraying out on the way back.

buzzer · 02-08-2021, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkness

That looks a lot like the S+S exhaust I had on a ‘70s Honda. It used to shear the pop rivets regularly and I lost a few end caps!

I didn’t put the wadding back, but had to pack some wire wool into it for MOTs. That used to last the journey to and from the test centre with restraint going there, and lumps of burning wire wool spraying out on the way back.

that comment has made me think of rubber mounting it!

Darkness · 02-08-2021, 12:15 PM

Is the mounting slot large enough to let you use the ally top hat and rubber bush used as standard?

buzzer · 02-08-2021, 05:58 PM

With the silencer finished I mounted it on the frame. I decided to make it rubber mounted to keep the vibrations down a bit. (good call Darkness !) The collector was challenging… first one I made I was not happy with, so the second one I welded it on the inside with the TIG, which came out well and should flow OK. Stuck for a few days now as I need a couple of mandrel bends to finish it off.

buzzer · 05-08-2021, 02:22 PM

the speedo/ rev counter I am going to use has a plastic case... which does not look good. I tried to get some tube the right diameter but it was too big or too small, so I cut 12mm out of some bigger stuff and seam welded it back up, using a piston ring clamp to pull it together to weld it. I knew it wouldn't look right with a flat bottom so I made a conical one by spinning it in the lathe. The alloy needs to be soft for this so I annealed it by heating it up to temperature, and letting it cool. A neat trick to know when its the right temperature is to use a Sharpie pen, and when its burn off and has disappeared, its the right temperature! a bearing on the end of a bar makes it easy! here is a short video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzapW5hnO3I

PPuxley · 05-08-2021, 05:13 PM

Taking it to just a whole other level, Tony!!

19-07-2021, 12:04 PM	#126
PPuxley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Reading Bike: M900 Posts: 600	Great work as ever! __________________ Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop.

01-08-2021, 10:12 AM	#130
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	That looks a lot like the S+S exhaust I had on a ‘70s Honda. It used to shear the pop rivets regularly and I lost a few end caps! I didn’t put the wadding back, but had to pack some wire wool into it for MOTs. That used to last the journey to and from the test centre with restraint going there, and lumps of burning wire wool spraying out on the way back. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

02-08-2021, 12:15 PM	#132
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	Is the mounting slot large enough to let you use the ally top hat and rubber bush used as standard? __________________ Original and Best since 1993

05-08-2021, 05:13 PM	#135
PPuxley Registered User Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Reading Bike: M900 Posts: 600	Taking it to just a whole other level, Tony!! __________________ Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop.

10-07-2021, 10:15 AM	#121
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	well the tank came back from the blasters… as you can see its full of pin holes, and for the first time in over 40 years of repairing tanks I feel I have been beaten! there is no point in trying to repair this! I put a light inside to shop the extent of the corrosion. look after your tanks guys!

10-07-2021, 11:25 AM	#122
walkingpictures preneolithic frebie Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Cambridge Bike: S4Rs Posts: 320	Wow,that's well knackered Tony!!! What's the plan,find another one the same or maybe a different type of tank? Kimbo

12-07-2021, 01:31 PM	#124
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	Started the frame modifications, just tacked up at the moment. On this build I want to keep the seat height right for me, but also allow for an under seat exhaust and a seat long enough for a pillion. I have replaced the shocker with a strut at the moment so I can see what things look like at max and min travel.

19-07-2021, 11:49 AM	#125
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	on my last build I run a pair of FCR carbs, it runs really well so for this build I chose the same carbs, but this time decided to bolt them together, and use a common split spindle to control the slides. this means I can use a single pull/ pull throttle arrangement, instead of the 4 cables system I used before. It also means I can run a TPS on the end of the spindle. I thought it would be easy, I got some 8mm silver steel for the spindle, and a couple of new bearings with seals instead of the closed cup bearings… unfortunately the threads on the locating pins into the spindle is an unusual thread and I couldn’t find a tap… so I had to make some new pins as well… All done now though, including a linkage in the middle so I can balance the carbs . I have also made some new velocity stacks to accommodate some foam filters… there is a few hours work in those! and a pile of swarf! Short video to demonstrate how I hand turn the bellmouth on the stacks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot4jIKXcFuI

23-07-2021, 09:03 AM	#127
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	To mount the carbs I needed to make some alloy custom manifolds. I made these using the pie /lobster cut method. I set the chop saw to 7 degrees and cut off a selection of pieces and tape them together until I have the right shape… I then mark the position of each and weld them together, ensuring I have good penetration, which I then grind off inside to make them smooth. the long bur in the picture is a beast to use! Onto the tank. I managed to source a very clean 999 tank, but of course this is too long for the build… so out came the angle grinder and off came the back! measure twice cut once!. I then fabricated a new back end and welded it into place. When welding stuff like this, everything needs to be clean for a good half inch either side of the weld, so I clean both sides with emery paper, and use to carb cleaner to ensure there is no grease… also wipe the welding rod with some as well… Once the back/side piece was in place I planished the sides so the new piece had the same radius as the tank. then I welded the bottom in. to test for leaks I use two methods… some dye penetrant and developer, and if it passes this test, I do a final check with air at just 3 PSI and squirt it with soapy water.

24-07-2021, 07:16 PM	#128
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	one of the most difficult things I find to make on a bike is the seat… this one i have used a different approach as (a) its a dual seat and (b) I am making the base out of aluminium. I mocked up what I wanted in cardboard first, and then transferred the patterns onto some 3mm aluminium. Then I seam welded it… It came out ok, be interesting to see what its like once its to the final shape and the foam and cover is on!

01-08-2021, 09:46 AM	#129
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	Next job will be the exhaust system but to do this I needed a silencer to get the mock up right… I wanted a small slim silencer, that was re-packable, and that I could fit a baffle come MOT time… and a bit retro/old school. I searched but couldn’t find any suitable, they were all too wide as I want an under seat, side mounted setup. so I modified a cheap (£16!) stainless steel one off eBay. I would have loved to have made one from scratch but don’t have a cone roller, and to buy a ready made stainless cone is expensive. the hardest part of making this was actually drilling three holes for the bolts to hold the end cone in. the stainless is incredibly hard! after blunting 3 new drills, and buying a cobalt drill and that not touching it, I ended up making a punch and die and punching the holes!

02-08-2021, 05:58 PM	#133
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	With the silencer finished I mounted it on the frame. I decided to make it rubber mounted to keep the vibrations down a bit. (good call Darkness !) The collector was challenging… first one I made I was not happy with, so the second one I welded it on the inside with the TIG, which came out well and should flow OK. Stuck for a few days now as I need a couple of mandrel bends to finish it off.

05-08-2021, 02:22 PM	#134
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	the speedo/ rev counter I am going to use has a plastic case... which does not look good. I tried to get some tube the right diameter but it was too big or too small, so I cut 12mm out of some bigger stuff and seam welded it back up, using a piston ring clamp to pull it together to weld it. I knew it wouldn't look right with a flat bottom so I made a conical one by spinning it in the lathe. The alloy needs to be soft for this so I annealed it by heating it up to temperature, and letting it cool. A neat trick to know when its the right temperature is to use a Sharpie pen, and when its burn off and has disappeared, its the right temperature! a bearing on the end of a bar makes it easy! here is a short video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzapW5hnO3I