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Old 30-08-2015, 06:21 PM   #1
Albie
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Seat cowl brackets I made myself as good a copy as I could. Plated catch too.



Rear end complete.



The extra bracket I made for the fuel tap looks better now.



Fitted a hanger and brake parts with new gaiter and pipe clips







Similar to gearshift side





Coffins and levers fitted together again. Refurbished fittings and powdercoated levers.

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Old 30-08-2015, 11:15 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flip View Post
No bikes went out badged as Cagiva and although TGP invested in Ducati at the end of '96 they didn't fully take over until '99/2000 when the logo officially changed to the one used now.

They had to have a complete re-branding as the Castiglioni brothers held (and still hold)the copyright to the old font which is why you won't get very much official Ducati merchandise using it- I presume they came up with a deal to use it on the 20th Anniversary bikes and a few items of clothing but the majority of it all dates back to the '70's and earlier.

My '97 900 has a generous smattering of Elephants (which must be a trademark of Cagiva) over it although not as many as the very early bikes.
Yea, I know. The Elephant is a Cagiva trademark. I just think maybe PS got it slightly wrong and assumed the Elephants were to indicate the Monster was going to be badged a Cagiva when it was really just to indicate Cagiva branding and what parts they had paid to manufacture on all the bikes SS/748.916 etc at that time.
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Old 30-08-2015, 11:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flip View Post
My '97 900 has a generous smattering of Elephants (which must be a trademark of Cagiva) over it although not as many as the very early bikes.
I think most Ducatis of the day do. My 916 has Elephants on various parts, including the frame...

Nice work on the M900 BTW.
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Old 30-08-2015, 07:51 PM   #4
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Good work there fella!

Quick observation - that gear change lever is not original, looks like it's off a much later bike. The rubber on the originals is round

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Old 30-08-2015, 07:56 PM   #5
Albie
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Good work there fella!

Quick observation - that gear change lever is not original, looks like it's off a much later bike. The rubber on the originals is round

Ped
Ok thanks good shout.

Anyone who has one message me please or swapsies.
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Old 30-08-2015, 08:27 PM   #6
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Great thread this.
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Old 30-08-2015, 08:35 PM   #7
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Thanks Davy. If you don't know what bits are on a monster 900 after this you ain't been watching lol.
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Old 30-08-2015, 10:03 PM   #8
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Gear lever now purchased. If anyone needs one like the one I had give me a message. All straight and clean. I need to make some £'s back now to further fund the Monster.
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Old 31-08-2015, 07:01 AM   #9
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Betterer and betterer.

Another quick observation (You'll be getting lots of helpful comments as she reassembles) is that you've placed the forks lower in the yokes than standard.

The Showa non-adjustable forks had about 10mm of the gold anodised fork leg visible above the top yoke, so that would be a good starting point when setting up the suspension geometry.

That's unless you still remember where you were on your old one of course?
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Old 31-08-2015, 07:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Betterer and betterer.

Another quick observation (You'll be getting lots of helpful comments as she reassembles) is that you've placed the forks lower in the yokes than standard.

The Showa non-adjustable forks had about 10mm of the gold anodised fork leg visible above the top yoke, so that would be a good starting point when setting up the suspension geometry.

That's unless you still remember where you were on your old one of course?
Yes tbh just there like that to put stuff together. Have piccies of that and a fade line to use. My hardest job today is making sure I put rectifier and fuel pump fittings correctly.
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Old 31-08-2015, 04:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkness View Post
Betterer and betterer.

Another quick observation (You'll be getting lots of helpful comments as she reassembles) is that you've placed the forks lower in the yokes than standard.

The Showa non-adjustable forks had about 10mm of the gold anodised fork leg visible above the top yoke, so that would be a good starting point when setting up the suspension geometry.

That's unless you still remember where you were on your old one of course?
If memory serves, the top of the fork leg should be 284mm from the underside of the bottom yoke - I'll have a look in the manual when I next go to the shed

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Old 31-08-2015, 04:57 PM   #12
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Old 01-09-2015, 02:14 AM   #13
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er....seat cowl brackets...
Blimey Albie, you've gone the extra mile there.
You've even put in the little strengthening "dink" halfway along the outer bend.
Let me guess ...You put a length of softwood 2x2 in the vice, rested the bracket over one corner and hit it with a rounded-off chisel ....?
Then probably had to tweek the bend as the angle would have shifted slightly.
Full marks and two stars (one red, one gold).

I didn't bother myself ...my ally ones are sans "dink".
And redundant now as it happens cos my Corbin seat (your old one, actually) is now a permanent and cowl-less feature.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:31 AM   #14
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Just another observation Albie....

Looking at your brake discs, you should clean off the paint on the inner face where they bolt to the wheel, same goes for the wheel face if there is any powder coat overspray. The bolts holding the discs on don't really provide much resistance to the disc turning on the wheel, the friction between clean faces on disc and wheel bear the majority of the braking load. You may also find that the paint causes the disc to not run true.

Hats off to your masking up though, much better than my last effort!!

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Old 01-09-2015, 09:56 AM   #15
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Yes I removed pretty much all from the back of disc yesterday so just a stain there now. Got the loom in roughly and the rectifier as I think it should go. Mines got an extra bracket so it mounts in a triangle as the bolt holes don't line up where you expect. I think it's another parts bin adaption. Take a picture later for discussion. Figured out starter relay wires and are too long . It's been replaced and badly wired in so I can lose 4" of wiring and whack a connector in there.
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