1999 M600 has been sitting for 5 years - what to do?

[Luddite]

That's weird With your model year and the measurements you've quoted, your slave should definitely be fitted with the 10mm spacer. But the symptoms you describe sound like something is preventing the clutch from engaging. You could try refitting the slave without the spacer, just to see if that makes any difference. I'd also withdraw the pushrod again just to check it's still true (if it's been put under undue pressure, it may have been distorted).

If you still have problems, give Oberon a call. Nick recently had a problem with his slave and the boss, Steve Street, was very helpful (turned out to be an assembly error at the factory).

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58107

[jamminbmx]

Ah ok good point about the rod. Will take it out and have a look! It doesn't look central in the hole it comes out.

Could it be possible I've opened the clutch too far and now something like a clutch spring is catching...I have no idea what is in the clutch on this!

How do i get the spacer out by the way?! I tried whacking on wood but no joy.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by jamminbmx

How do i get the spacer out by the way?! I tried whacking on wood but no joy.

The 'wood-whack' should work as the spacer shouldn't be that tight a fit. If all else fails, maybe a tiny spot of superglue on the end of a matchstick pushed against the end of the spacer (don't touch the sides!). Then pull the matchstick out with the spacer attached. You can then clean off the glue.

The only things I can think would cause your problem would be:

• incorrect or faulty cylinder
• wrong combination of pushrod/spacer lengths
• pushrod not locating properly in the pressure plate bearing.

When you remove the pushrod, check that it's installed the right way round, i.e. with the o-rings at the slave cylinder end.

[jamminbmx]

Update time! After swearing at everything I could think of, it was of course my fault. Somehow managed to loose the 10mm spacer from the Oberon without noticing. What a numpty.

Contacted Oberon and they popped a replacement in the post, to the Netherlands, the same day, for FREE! Awesome service!

Fitted, bled and works like a charm! Way more positive than the original clutch. Blasted round the block and all seems spot on! Sounds great.

Cheers to you lot for getting an unloved Monster back on the road!!!!!

[Luddite]

Great! Another happy ending!

And another testimonial of Oberon's customer service.

Thanks for the update.

[jamminbmx]

OK...Update time. The monster has been great after you lot helped me patch it back up!

But now I have fiddled with something and it is not great.

I replaced the fuel line from tank to filter and from filter to fuel tap. I could not get an L-shaped filter so used a normal straight filter.

The fuel lines are quite long so they have smooth curves. Also took the tank off.

Now it runs but is down on power. Feels like fuel starvation!! I ran it with the tank cap open and this made no difference. It won't go more than 60mph and this takes some serious run up

Any ideas?! Can I run a line direct from tank via a filter to the carbs to rule out fuel pump or tap?

Any help would be much appreciated! Supposed to go riding at the weekend!

[slob]

are you sure the fuel lines aren’t kinking when you lower the tank into place, this is quite a common issue on early monsters, especially since you have a customised setup.
also double check the fuel filter is correctly oriented, assuming it has a flow direction arrow.

[jamminbmx]

I am fairly sure the lines are not kinking. The route is not ideal though without an L-Shaped filter. Goes up and down quite a lot.

I will check the filter direction tonight! Cheers!

[slob]

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/ducati/...re/fuel_filter

[jamminbmx]

You made that look quite easy

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by jamminbmx

Now it runs but is down on power. Feels like fuel starvation!! I ran it with the tank cap open and this made no difference. It won't go more than 60mph and this takes some serious run up

Silly as it sounds, are you sure both cylinders are firing?

Asking because on my M900, the connector fell off the wire from the ignition module to one of the coils and the bike, unsurprisingly, suddenly lost power and couldn't do more than about 60mph but, oddly it sounded and felt like it was running fine despite the front cylinder not firing at all, it even idled OK.

[jamminbmx]

Dukedesmo - I was kind of wondering that but assumed it would run really badly. Both cylinders felt hot though...is there a better way to check?

I could have easily knocked a connector off with the repeated opening and closing of the tank.

It does feel exactly like normal...but with half the power

[Mr Gazza]

If you get a third degree burn when you touch the pipe, then it's firing on that one.
A slightly safer way is to spit on your finger and dab it on quickly. If it crackles and fizzes then you know it's hot.

The other things that it's possible to displace when pulling and tugging in there are the vacuum lines to the tap and pump, however I'm not sure it would run at all if one was not connected?
Worth a check though, they run down to the carb manifolds.

[jamminbmx]

I have enough third degree burns from my first bbq attempt of the year...but checking the pipe does seem like the best way forward! Cheers!

I was thinking maybe the fuel pump not working...but as you say...It does run! And sounds good too! Just not enough power!

[Nasher]

One of the most useful tools I ever brought is my infrared thermometer gun.

The difference in the temperature of header pipes can be used to ensure fueling on both is equal, or indeed that all pots are firing.

It's really useful when working on V6 outboards by measuring the temp of the spark plug.
As you can imagine if just one cylinder has gone down there is no difference in the tickover.
You have to do it before the water jacket warms up and evens everything out though.
And a few degrees difference points you in the right direction when looking at one of 3 twin choke carbs.