Yet Another M900 Build

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by PPuxley

Then, at a bit of a loose end I thought Id have a look at the low fuel sensor which wasnt working. After giving it a good clean and flush and finding it was still not working I thought Id have a look at the inside. I forgot to photograph it but it had a small chip of material, that I can only assume becomes conductive when not immersed....Ive no idea what that is and google didnt help me.

Did your sensor look like this before you modified it?



If so, it would have had a thermistor at the tip acting as the sensor.

This extract from an earlier thread gives more details on how it works.

Originally Posted by Luddite

As already stated, the thermistor does operate on a temperature basis. The way it works is that it draws a small current from the bike, which heats it up to a certain temperature. When it's immersed in petrol the fuel acts as a heat sink and keeps the thermistor at a constant, lower, temperature regardless of the ambient temperature. At the lower temperature, the resistance is high but, when the fuel level drops below the thermistor, it heats up, which reduces the resistance causing the fuel light to come on.

Be aware if you're testing it, that it may take 30 seconds or more for the thermistor to heat up enough to switch the light on.

[PPuxley]

Yes, it did look like that. When I got inside it, I found that both the connections to either side of the chip were broken.

[hh93]

You could try resoldering then testing with a multimeter and dunk it in water and out to see if the resistance changes - can take 30 to 60 Seconds to change through. That's deliberate to prevent flashing of the warning light.

Reposting the link to the PDF of Thermister Info so it's on here too:

https://www.teamwavelength.com/therm...y%20or%20glass

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by PPuxley

Can anyone help with which way round the seal goes on the RH crank end where it goes into the bronze bush in the clutch casing?

Here's mine;



So, as it sits in your pic.

Edited to add, it's there to keep the oil/pressure from leaking into the engine so that it flows into the crankshaft end.

[PPuxley]

Thanks DD. Typically I got the opposite answer to the same question posted on the UK Monsters page on FB, although that was for a 620 I think.
I must say I'm pretty sure mine was as you have shown when I removed mine , but I'm just a bit foggy .
Trying to think about where the oil pressure is- I would have thought it was on the inside where it is pumping through the end of the crank and the washer and circlip would indicate that the seal is trying to be blown out towards the centre........in which case you would expect the seal to be the opposite way round to yours and my foggy recollection.
Hmmm............

[PPuxley]

Well, there it as clear as day in the Haynes manual, even with an instruction to make sure you put it the correct way round.
I had looked previously in the Haynes Manual, but obviously not hard enough!
Although "pry out with a flat bladed screw driver " tiurned out to be a bit short of the mark, I seem to remember hacking mine out by any means!!
As you said DD.

[slob]

From a later model factory manual:

If the oil seal (11) needs to be replaced, fit the new seal into the clutch cover, positioning it so so the side without a spring is facing the circlip (13).



I think I have an old cover in the garage, I'll take a look later, with luck it's still got the seal in place.

[PPuxley]

Oh jesus, thats the other way from the Haynes!!! Ive just re-fitted it as Haynes!!

[PPuxley]

I do note , though that replacement seals supplied by Ducati are now a standard type fully encapsulated Viton seal- I just had Snells check.

The original was steel cased, so I wonder whether that accounts for the conflicting instructions.

Its clearly visible in the Haynes picture they are fitting an "original" type steel cased seal

[slob]

good news, AFAIK this is ‘factory fitted’

ans is per Haynes/DD’s suggestion
Although I noted the circlip appeared to be the wrong way round (in my mind at least), with the ‘sharp’ edge towards the seal.

[PPuxley]

Thanks, but, I'm not sure where that leave us?

Factory fitted steel outered seals go spring side out (towards centre) Confirmed by, Haynes, DD, yours, and my recollection.

But later factory manual fitting a modern viton seal says the other way.
��������

[Dukedesmo]

The pic I posted is of mine and is, AFAIK the original factory fitted seal.

[PPuxley]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

The pic I posted is of mine and is, AFAIK the original factory fitted seal.

Thanks. I think we can safely say that originally fitted seals with steel outer (part 937842030) were fitted spring side towards centre.

What is still not clear, is: if fitting a replacemant seal, which is a Viton seal (part no 93040911A) should it be fitted the opposite way round, as Slob's posted later manual shows?

[Dukedesmo]

Can't help with the new seal as I've not seen one to know what's different.

But surely the 'lip' of the seal must point outwards so that the pressurised oil coming directly from the pump is forced down the crank rather than leak past the end of it to just return to the sump?

[PPuxley]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Can't help with the new seal as I've not seen one to know what's different.

But surely the 'lip' of the seal must point outwards so that the pressurised oil coming directly from the pump is forced down the crank rather than leak past the end of it to just return to the sump?

I agree with the logic, but thats not what that manual entry that Slob posted further up the page says.