UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Mods & How To's » Slow Monster rebuild

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Old 02-01-2017, 07:12 PM   #31
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I took the bike down to MADASL to get the exhaust headers made. The original exhaust had a large dent in the front down pipe as a consequence of me riding over a 300mm kerb and grounding/flattening it.
The rear header had to be cut off with a Dremel as the bolts at the first pipe junction were seized and I managed to completely strip the hex on the first clamp. Hammered in Torx bits did not shift it and the only way the Dremel cutter would fit meant the stream of sparks was coming directly at my face - not pleasant.
Mark at MADASL is brilliant he also machined the flywheel and lightened the main drive pinion and the clutch drive gear and the jack shaft gear for the cam drive. It is not possible to machine massive amounts off the early Monster flywheel because of the need to maintain the ignition pick up positions on the flywheel. I think about 2kg became swarf.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:17 PM   #32
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The above pictures do not really show the headers and I will post more /better pictures at some later date. The tailpipe is stainless and Chinese and cost the princely sum of £55 from Banggood.com.
I was very pleased with the way Mark made the tail pipe sit to look just right. He also said that the distance from the ports to the junction piece was within 5mm. He also accommodated my wish to have a parallelogram rear brake hanger. With the lightening of the various gears, the manufacture of the headers, and the supply and fitting of rear ride height adjusters the total bill was c£700 but I needed to hire two vans to drop it to him and back home again , another £60 plus another £70 fuel. I will need to weld a bracket to the rear frame to make a steady for the tailpipe and make a bracket with rubber isolation mounts.
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:14 PM   #33
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This is brilliant

If you want to avoid the messy advertising after your pics copy the 'direct link' instead and Come back here, click the little yellow square -> above the text box and paste the link in the box
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:05 PM   #34
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More progress on the seat, the process is very long and very arduous. First make the skeleton, rub it down and skim with body filler, rub that down and you break through to the foam so at least another skim and rub down is required.
Then paint with primer resin and rub down again, find you have broken through again re-skim with body filler and re paint with primer resin and rub down again. paint with high gloss mould resin and rub down again with 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 wet and dry paper and see if the surface will take a high polish. If not repeat the previous processes. Then polish with rubbing compound and polish to a high gloss.
That gets you a male mould from which you can make a female mould that will be the basis of the finished article. 5 coats of release agent are then applied and the female mould can be defined. It has however to be made in such a way that it can be separated from the male mould. This involves cutting a sheet of clear polyester to match the profile of the male mould along a line where the mould will be split about 50mm bigger than the profile of the male mould. Using the polyester foam blocks glue gunned to the male mould attach the clear polyester sheet and seal the edges with wax so that there is no casting line in the female mould. Use the wax to form pyramids on the clear polyester sheet about every 75 mm to form registers so that the mould will always go back in exactly the same place.
Apply 5 coats of release agent to the polyester sheet and then apply I gel coat resin to one half of the mould and the polyester sheet mould divider then 3 or 4 layers of glass fibre matt and let it cure. When cured strip off the polyester sheet mould divider and apply release agent to the face exposed by removal of the divider, then gel coat and 3/4 layers of fibreglass to the other side of the mould. That gets you a repeatable female mould.
Apply another 5 coats of release agent followed by high gloss resin, followed by the CF sheet and resin 3 or four layers as required for strength.
So far I have made the male mould and cut the polyester sheet for the mold divider. However every time I look at the male mould I think I could do better
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:17 PM   #35
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:19 PM   #36
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I also started to think about the petrol tank. The seat can be made in 2 halves, the tank however depending upon its design will have to be made in at least a 3 part mould, two halves for the top surface and at least one for the bottom. The top and the bottom will then have to be bonded together. The inner bonding layer would need to be a resin impervious to attack by ethanol. The body of the tank would be Kevlar reinforced carbon fibre.
I wanted about a 4 gallon tank to give enough range and I also wanted the fuel carried as close to the centre of gravity as possible. Moving the battery and coils from above the rear cylinder would help with both these objectives. I also felt it would be better to try and restrict the extent to which the tank over-reached the top frame rails.
The first problem was where to start, defining the side view or defining the underside of the tank, consideration also had to be made as to how it would be secured to the frame, the position of the tap(s) and the filler and breather pipes and the extent to which baffles may be required within the tank to prevent sloshing.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:28 PM   #37
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Work started on the tank base
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photo uploadingg/image/s09qtzlo9/]image upload no resizetbj4ifpp/Tank_base_plug_3.jpg[/img][/url]post images
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:29 PM   #38
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:37 PM   #39
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Work on the tank skeleton
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:45 PM   #40
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Just what I need to be reading as I sip the last of my Christmas Ale.

Fantastic!!!!
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:47 PM   #41
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The last picture above shows the plug for the enclosure for the coils and fuse box and starter solenoid resting approximately where it should sit, behind and below the headstock.
I was worried at this point that the extremely close fit between the bottom of the tank and the top of the rear cylinder would turn that part of the tank into a petrol boiler. Also with the coil enclosure effectively partially blocking airflow to the rear cylinder, which already has a reputation for running hot and the planned panels to fit between the top and bottom frame rails immediately aft of the headstock to prevent moisture ingress to the electrics I was concerned that the carbs would also be starved of cold air.
Accordingly some scoops were fabricated to direct air to the carb area and to divert air to the rear cylinder.
How they will be fixed in position is yet to be determined
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:50 PM   #42
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The petrol boiler problem was alladult image hosteviated also by modifying the tank base, losing about a litre in capacity in so doing.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:04 PM   #43
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More tank progress
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:05 PM   #44
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Sorry all upside down (but not in my photo gallery)
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:17 PM   #45
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Great read 350TSS And I thought I had problems trying to get organised to replace 8 cylinder head studs..I'd be interested in buying any original bits you no longer want need.
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