M1000 track bike

[Kato]

Originally Posted by bex

Cue inappropriate snickering in work.

Good luck with the rebuild Rob.

Your inappropriately eating a snickers

I like the fact you've got some bog roll handy.

[slob]

I'll stick to keeping the bikes naked and the girls in leather ;-)

[slob]

Day off today so back in the garage.

Belts look fine and clutch is only showing signs of normal wear.

Kato's supplied me with a lightly used slipper clutch for when it goes back together anyway, whilst the 1000's engine braking is great on the road it can border on scary going into tight corners on track.

No horrors behind the clutch casing, a few sludgy deposits which doesn't seem unusual at 30K miles.


A few magnetic fragments in the filter screen but it could look worse considering the state of the drain plug.

(sorry, another poorly focused phone shot)

Everything looks okay inside the lefthand case. The alternator nut is still in place!

I'll crack on tomorrow.

[slob]

Top end and all gears etc. now stripped off the cases.


Big thanks to Dr.Ray for the use of a primary gear puller.
Rally and Max are bang on the money, the vertical cylinder big end bearing has gone.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Rod.MOV

The resulting wobble has caused the vertical gudgeon pin to eat a chunk of piston. I was planning on new pistons anyway...


Split the cases

...and the full horror is visible

The remains of the big end shell, squeezed between the rod and crank web


Plenty more bits of bearing shell in the case


Off to Rosso Corse, where I can strip the heads, using Ray's slide hammer.
The vertical exhaust valve looks as though it's just kissed the piston. One of the collets has broken and the valve guide oil seal is destroyed, it just fell out of the head.


At least the cams and rockers all look okay. Not that I'll be using these cams.



Thanks again to Ray at Rosso Corse for the use of the special tools I don't have and the ready advice when I reach the edges of my knowledge.

[gary tompkins]

Great progress so far Rob

Best of luck on the repairs to bottom end and re-build

Interesting stuff - a picture of the H shell bearings would be good and guessing it will show fatigue cracks.

[slob]

The vertical rod and remains of the big end shell


Horizontal one was well on its way out too, hardly surprising


The other side of the crankpin


As usual the paint (not) on the cases seems to have suffered the worst ;-)


Some of the bearings now feel quite crunchy


The phone calls start this week...

Originally Posted by slob

The phone calls start this week...

....for a rev limiter? :-)

New crank and rods by the look of it - what do you think?

[slob]

New rods, regrind and oversize shells (along with lighten and balance)

...definitely going to be careful about setting the rev limiter when it goes back together!

Fair enough, crank looks serious from here but could be welded first anyway if you get the right guy I guess.
Those crunchy bearing will have debris in them so will you change all the bearings anyway?
Keep posting about this, I like reading about real engineering - thanks.

(I hope nobody asks what oil you were using!)

[slob]

Always new mains, false economy to strip it this far and not replace them.
I'll be changing all the others too, I'm planning on blasting the cases, so there'll be beads/shot as well as debris in them soon ;-)
I was using 'Rock Oil Synthesis 4 Racing', I don't know how it spent the first 25K miles of its life though.
I'll be switching from 10w40 to 20w50 after the rebuild.

Any idea on what caused the damage? purely from the engine over-revving?

Fascinating thread

[Rally]

Originally Posted by slob

I was using 'Rock Oil Synthesis 4 Racing', I don't know how it spent the first 25K miles of its life though.
I'll be switching from 10w40 to 20w50 after the rebuild.

I'd be going the other way and using fully synthetic 0w50 in there if it was me. It's far better for a race engine and will lubricate better at all temperatures. Castrol Power 1 Racing is a good one Rob.