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Old 10-01-2023, 03:47 PM   #31
Dukedesmo
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Certainly brazing was used back in the day.

40 odd years ago I had a 1960s Ducati 250 Scrambler that developed a minor leak on the seam at the rear, the local bike mechanic brazed it for a decent repair.

Certainly a more modern weld would work fine but it would need more preparation, (paint removal) will likely put more heat into the area and therefore burn off even more paint/risk warping?
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Old 10-01-2023, 07:37 PM   #32
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This is helpful

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ight=tank+leak

Thanks
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Old 10-01-2023, 07:59 PM   #33
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Yes, I think that's the thread I had in mind.

While on the subject, I would recommend never using the std tank prop.
It only works on one side of the tank and therefore imparts a twisting load on the hinge area. In my opinion this is the likely cause of the leakage which often occurs.
My tank prop has been hanging, unused on the shed wall for well over a decade.
Instead I use a length of timber to prop the tank up from the airbox.
Something like 20mm x 80mm and about 450mm long is about right.
Its also a much more secure way of supporting the tank when its raised.
Furthermore, the little plastic end on the std tank prop breaks very easily.
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Old 10-01-2023, 09:43 PM   #34
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Yes, I think that's the thread I had in mind.

While on the subject, I would recommend never using the std tank prop.
It only works on one side of the tank and therefore imparts a twisting load on the hinge area. In my opinion this is the likely cause of the leakage which often occurs.
My tank prop has been hanging, unused on the shed wall for well over a decade.
Instead I use a length of timber to prop the tank up from the airbox.
Something like 20mm x 80mm and about 450mm long is about right.
Its also a much more secure way of supporting the tank when its raised.
Furthermore, the little plastic end on the std tank prop breaks very easily.
Yes I have a suitable sized length of timber which I now use instead of the factory prop. It also doubles up when I want to ensure the "bonnet" on my mid engined sports car is securely open when I charge the battery over the winter as the hydraulic struts which are supposed to keep it open are on the way out.
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Old 17-01-2023, 09:39 AM   #35
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Further update if anyone is still awake : tank has now been "gas" welded at a cost of £80. I currently have no other details nor do I know the extent of the damage to the existing paintwork -await collection via my fiend who is doing the work. Meanwhile bike is back with me -all it should need to put back on the road now is refinishing /repair / re-painting of the tank and swapping over the fuel lines / filter/ mountings and the cap etc. The OE tank cap is looking its age-like the owner-does anyone know if the replacements offered on Ebay are any good please?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334585475...3ABFBMqpSz8bdh
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Old 17-01-2023, 02:12 PM   #36
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I have used £18 Ebay fuel caps on 3 Ducatis and they worked fine
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Old 17-01-2023, 03:47 PM   #37
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I have used £18 Ebay fuel caps on 3 Ducatis and they worked fine
Thanks Jerry.
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Old 18-01-2023, 11:21 AM   #38
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Agree with Jerry, used one on a Ducati and one specified for a ZX9R both fine in terms of initial install and durability in use. You will have two keys on your key ring though unless you go to the trouble of dismantling your original lock and swapping it with the lock out of the new purchase - risky (?).
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Old 18-01-2023, 03:03 PM   #39
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I would stick with 2 keys the locks have tiny spring that are fiddly and easy to lose and hard to control or fit
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Old 18-01-2023, 07:03 PM   #40
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Thanks.

I had anticipated the duplicate keys issue.

As I have part of the ignition lock missing maybe this is the answer?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403939615...3ABFBMsPfm47hh
I know there will still be the seat lock but I don't lift that often.
I've had some pics of the welded tank (can't post due to tech incompetence) but it looks OK. Just waiting for my mate to let me know what he's going to do about re-painting the areas around the welds but it doesn't look too badly affected.
Looks as though I shall be able to get the bike back on the road for Spring now fingers crossed.
I'm told after the work on the engine and clutch it runs quietly and very well now.
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Old 19-01-2023, 07:45 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by motomartin11 View Post
Thanks.

I had anticipated the duplicate keys issue.

As I have part of the ignition lock missing maybe this is the answer?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403939615...3ABFBMsPfm47hh
I know there will still be the seat lock but I don't lift that often.
I've had some pics of the welded tank (can't post due to tech incompetence) but it looks OK. Just waiting for my mate to let me know what he's going to do about re-painting the areas around the welds but it doesn't look too badly affected.
Looks as though I shall be able to get the bike back on the road for Spring now fingers crossed.
I'm told after the work on the engine and clutch it runs quietly and very well now.
Use Post Images - if I can do it anyone can
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Old 31-05-2023, 07:42 PM   #42
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Update if anyone is interested..........?
Tank paint , lacquer and decals have been bought and the paint has been fully removed from the old tank.
Hoping the re-spray will be done over the next week or 2 after which the plan is to re-fit the hardware and get the old nail fired up and MOT'd as the old one is about to expire.
Also hoping after all the engine and electrical work it will be a nicer (and more reliable) bike to ride.
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Old 02-06-2023, 10:47 AM   #43
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Fingers crossed for you it works out
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Old 02-06-2023, 12:39 PM   #44
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Fingers crossed for you it works out
Thanks-it's been a long haul.

Will post up what transpires.
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Old 02-06-2023, 02:52 PM   #45
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Yes, we are interested.
And likewise, I hope you finally get it all sorted out after the long haul.
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