1100 Evo mods - an addicts tale

[RichardDDuke]

Anybody found any aftermarket bars that have the correct holes pre-drilled for switch gear to locate into ?
If so, please advise....
TIA

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by RichardDDuke

Anybody found any aftermarket bars that have the correct holes pre-drilled for switch gear to locate into ?
If so, please advise....
TIA

I don't think you're going to find any pre-drilled bars, Richard. All these aftermarket bars, be they from Rizoma, LSL, CNC Racing etc., they're all universal fit designed for any number of makes and models. You'd probably be hard-pushed to find two bikes with the same arrangement and position of holes so the manufacturers have to leave it to the buyer to locate everything in the correct place.

It's not a difficult task - if you wrap masking tape around the pin area then colour over the end of the switchgear pin with a marker pen, when you press the switchgear halves together on the bar, you'll be left with a location mark on the tape.

The bars are aluminium so are not difficult to drill, just proceed slowly, start with a pilot hole then go up in a couple of steps to the correct size, (on the Evo, 5.5mm for switches and 4.5mm for the throttle).

A bonus to drilling your own holes is that you can position things exactly as you want, not as the manufacturer dictates. On the Rizomas, you can see graduation lines so you can rotate the bars forward or back. A hole position that worked on -3 probably wouldn't be comfortable on +3.

If you don't want to drill, consider removing the pins and using self-adhesive mounting tape to secure things. Plenty of people on here have used that method with no problems.

[RichardDDuke]

Luddite,
Thanks for the reply. I've never been great at getting holes in exactly the right place ... hence the amount of spare aluminium bracketry in my garage.
I'll give your method a go, and given the amount of detail given even I should stand a decent chance of getting it right first time.
Thanks again.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by RichardDDuke

I'll give your method a go, and given the amount of detail given even I should stand a decent chance of getting it right first time.
Thanks again.

The old maxim of "measure twice, cut (or drill!) once", is appropriate here. Just ensure that you try the bars at different positions to find the one you like best before you start marking out your drilling points. Use a centre punch to stop the pilot drill wandering and you'll be fine. The bar walls are quite thick, (about 4mm), so don't be surprised if it takes longer than you anticipated to make your holes.

Also, I'd recommend wrapping the whole bar in masking tape to protect the anodising while you're positioning and drilling.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by RichardDDuke

I'll give your method a go, and given the amount of detail given even I should stand a decent chance of getting it right first time.
Thanks again.

A quick PS - if you're fitting higher risers and/or bars, do make sure you top out the forks with levers and switches fitted to ensure you won't be pulling on the brake hoses when the suspension is fully extended

[Luddite]

Thought I'd celebrate the Evo's 12th birthday by having an oil analysis done.



More details here: http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=60406

By the way, the NHS sent me a bowel cancer testing kit on the same day - best not to get the two samples mixed up