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31-03-2020, 12:48 PM | #1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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A simple wheel lift?
One of the jobs I enjoy least is fitting wheels back in to front and back. OK; the front is pretty easy, but the back requires juggling of the wheel, the chain, the brake caliper mount and various external spacers. This would be OK with two people but on my own I find it a real chore and inevitably messy.
I have as many forms of bike lift as you could shake a stick at but the back wheel still needs to be at just the right height off the floor to get the axle through, and different bikes need different heights. I also have an engine lift platform which works well and is strong, but it's too thick for wheels even in the closed-down position. Has anyone overcome this problem, either with a commercially-available rig, or by some homemade effort, preferably in a way that doesn't still need three hands? I'm trying hard to devise something, maybe based on two plates supported at each end by wedges if I can't make something with a screw-thread. Over to you-all! Nick |
31-03-2020, 01:00 PM | #2 |
aka Phil
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: derry
Bike: M900
Posts: 376
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Nick
I've been through many versions of this from man-handling on my own as a younger man, to having friends/missus/ma help me! Recently, I've used (with various degrees of success) some packing under the wheel. Setting some pieces of timber under the back wheel before loosening/taking out the spindle, just put in with enough thickness to catch the wheel without compressing the suspension. Then setting the wheel on the same packing when re-fitting, after getting it in the caliper and the chain back over the cog. Most times it has worked well, making the spindle tap through without much hassle. Phil
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31-03-2020, 01:04 PM | #3 |
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31-03-2020, 01:15 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Bristol
Bike: M900
Posts: 14
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I've used two wooden wedges with success , pushed together to riase the wheel to the correct height and the same for taking a wheel out. Simple but effective wooden chocks.
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31-03-2020, 01:15 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Alcester
Bike: M1200s
Posts: 241
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I have several bikes and several stands. They all seem to lift at a different height. But in each machine & stand combo, I just rest the back wheel on my toes of one foot, and raise or lower accordingly while I slide the spindle into place while the blocks and spacers are put in place with my hands. Sounds easy to type this, sometimes it's a jiggle and a wiggle and a dropped spacer!
I always seem to manage fine but some bikes are fiddly. The single siders are wonderful though!! There is a piece available to help with this but I can't for the life think what it's called, nor can I find it after a quick google... Toes for me then! Found the ABBA Stands rear wheel rizer piece. Last edited by Stinger101; 31-03-2020 at 01:19 PM.. Reason: clearer description & found new info |
31-03-2020, 01:34 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,733
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The wooden wedge works for me. A short length of 4”x2” cut at an angle allows you to roll the wheel to the right height to accept the spindle with one hand. When I’ve been at tracks without the luxury of all my usual bits & bobs I use the handle of my dead-blow hammer.
Last edited by slob; 31-03-2020 at 01:41 PM.. |
31-03-2020, 01:35 PM | #7 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,963
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Yes, I use my toes as an adjustable wedge too.. Simples.
I don't think anyone will ever beat the AJS and Matchless design of QD wheel. You can remove and install the rear wheel at the roadside with just a decent adjustable spanner. It leaves the chain and rear brake in place and in adjustment... The stand comes with the bike and parks the bike at the perfect height for wheel changing. Removing the front wheel is only very slightly more involved, but once it's loose the bike tips back onto the rear wheel and is stable in that position, requiring only a gentle push down to re-locate onto the axle when re-fitting.. Shame about the road drill engine they used though!
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31-03-2020, 02:30 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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I got one of these air wedges for hanging doors. It gives about 2 - 2½ inches of lift so isn't enough on it's own to lift a wheel (for me anyway). But used on top of a bit of wood, a few pumps raises the wheel to exactly the right height.
Having said that, I can't remember the last time I used it - the rear is a single-sided swinging-arm so is easy anyway and for the front, I've been using the Mr Gazza toes method as I can't be bothered to dig out the wedge. |
31-03-2020, 02:57 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Oh that's nice, didn't know they existed.
I'm going to have to get one of them. Nasher.
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31-03-2020, 07:22 PM | #10 |
Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bradford
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 175
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They had a similar thing to what Luddite is suggesting in Lidl last week. If they still have them when I go tomorrow to get the essentials I will maybe take a punt
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31-03-2020, 07:54 PM | #11 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,559
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Just to repeat really ....
I also use either the toes method or the two wooden wedges/packers method. And I also was not aware of the pump wedge doo-dad. Haven't been shopping for nearly two weeks now so a visit to Lidl might be in order tomorrow. Ta, Luddite .. again. |
31-03-2020, 08:00 PM | #12 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Yes, I've often used the toe-cap method and the wedges but nothing yet is stable enough and sufficiently adjustable to prevent extreme aggravation. I like the look of the Abba Rizer but I've already got a gadget of theirs which was a waste of money (the front-lift attachment to their excellent main stand) so £70 seems a bit of a risk. However, Luddite's inflatable wedge looks like a great idea and can be used for other jobs too, so my order is in for a couple of them!
Thanks, All. Nick |
01-04-2020, 10:16 AM | #13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Clevedon
Bike: M1200s
Posts: 565
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I have used a shovel under the back tyre for the past 10 years or so and it works perfectly.
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01-04-2020, 10:22 AM | #14 | |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,091
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Quote:
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01-04-2020, 10:51 AM | #15 |
Too much time on my hands member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Forest Of Dean
Bike: S2r
Posts: 3,206
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Both my R's are single siders so a bit of a non issue now.
The 750's were a bit different and I used the tried and tested foot system, you still really needed an extra arm to make sure the caliper holder was lined up and the spacers didn't knock out.
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