Hex/Allen head driver - what do you use?

MotoNik · 26-02-2020, 02:07 PM

I've recently had a few issues with corroded bolts rounded off while using Allen keys. I'm wondering whether I may be able to minimise it happening in future by using something electric - a half-way-house between an impact driver and an electric drill. The logic being that shocking something undone means it is less likely to round off, compared to applying torque slowly by hand.

Just curious to hear what everyone uses, and whether you have recommendations for something reasonably lightweight as an alternative to allen keys.

Thanks!

Nik

Darren69 · 26-02-2020, 02:49 PM

I don;t know of anything specific like that. I always replace all the standard Ducati cheese bolts with good quality stainless or titanium and use copperslip.

Use good quality allen keys or the T-drive type which are favoured by the professionals.

MotoNik · 26-02-2020, 02:58 PM

I'm definitely considering investing in metal t-bars. I have some plastic handled ones, and the useful sizes are broken...!

utopia · 26-02-2020, 03:05 PM

I often find that giving the bolt a sharp tap on its head with a hammer and ally drift will jar loose any corrosion and allow it to be removed.
Its a similar effect to an impact driver I guess, though the blow is purely axial rather than radial and it will therefore do no damage to the drive hex.

MotoNik · 26-02-2020, 03:07 PM

That's a good practice - I should probably try that too.

Darren69 · 26-02-2020, 03:30 PM

Soak with Plus gas for really stubborn ones. I think you can get electric rattle guns, that some on here are using, but I don't know if they're expensive. Maybe for 1 bolt but if you're stripping a whole bike?

MotoNik · 26-02-2020, 03:38 PM

I may ultimately strip the whole bike in a year or two. But for now, in doing basic servicing jobs I've managed to round off five socket heads so far. I'm not a pro mechanic by any means, but I'm not inexperienced either, having been working on cars and bikes for about thirty years now (gulp!). Really, I'm just trying to see if there is a way I could be doing things better.

Plus Gas is great stuff though - I probably should have thought ahead and doused the whole bike with it!

utopia · 26-02-2020, 03:54 PM

I usually do the sharp tap with a hammer bit while the threads are still dry.
I find that after applying penetrating oil the effect is not so great.
If that fails I'll reach for the penetrating oil and if that fails I'll start applying a bit of heat, if possible.
In over 40yrs of spannering, I haven't resorted to buying an impact gun yet.

MotoNik · 26-02-2020, 03:56 PM

Mental note - must buy a blowtorch, as I'm sure that would have saved me a few times.

Nickj · 26-02-2020, 05:20 PM

I've got an powered impact driver, it came as a good part deal with a decent drill.
I've used it to drive in big screws into sleepers and fences, it feels a bit overkill for casing screws and would just rip the heads off them!!
A good wack then undo usually works fine.
Oh remember to clean any garbage out of the head first so you use as much of the faces as you can.

350TSS · 26-02-2020, 05:38 PM

If you feel that the head is more likely to strip than come undone as there is a bit of play in it and you have applied the penetrating oil and even a bit of heat, put some valve grinding paste in the head of the Allen bolt this will take up any slack and allow the Allen key to work.

Darkness · 26-02-2020, 06:03 PM

I find a selection of torx drivers useful as a “Second chance” on the allen heads. Just tap them in with lumpy the hammer.

Mark64 · 26-02-2020, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TSS

If you feel that the head is more likely to strip than come undone as there is a bit of play in it and you have applied the penetrating oil and even a bit of heat, put some valve grinding paste in the head of the Allen bolt this will take up any slack and allow the Allen key to work.

+1 for this tip, not actually done it myself (despite being in engineering for 40 years) but I have seen it done (on YouTube) with good results, when I have had a really stubborn Allen screw I tend to use a socket type Allen key - if possible 3/4" drive - you get much more force through a bigger drive, if you only have 1/2" drive try using a long pipe on the ratchet handle to get more force on it.
Good luck.

damien666 · 26-02-2020, 06:12 PM

I’ve got the hex and torx versions of these. Very good quality
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDHUS-H...-/164088526378

And snap-on for the 3/8 socket hex and torx, because they are a good fit.
( I’m not a snap-on whore. Just like stuff that fits and works).

slob · 26-02-2020, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoNik

Mental note - must buy a blowtorch, as I'm sure that would have saved me a few times.

Make sure you buy one with a piezo ignite button, saves a bunch of faffing about finding a lighter ... and then some lighter fuel (unless you're a smoker, in which case I guess you won't have that issue)

26-02-2020, 02:07 PM	#1
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	Hex/Allen head driver - what do you use? I've recently had a few issues with corroded bolts rounded off while using Allen keys. I'm wondering whether I may be able to minimise it happening in future by using something electric - a half-way-house between an impact driver and an electric drill. The logic being that shocking something undone means it is less likely to round off, compared to applying torque slowly by hand. Just curious to hear what everyone uses, and whether you have recommendations for something reasonably lightweight as an alternative to allen keys. Thanks! Nik

26-02-2020, 02:49 PM	#2
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	I don;t know of anything specific like that. I always replace all the standard Ducati cheese bolts with good quality stainless or titanium and use copperslip. Use good quality allen keys or the T-drive type which are favoured by the professionals. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

26-02-2020, 03:30 PM	#6
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,091	Soak with Plus gas for really stubborn ones. I think you can get electric rattle guns, that some on here are using, but I don't know if they're expensive. Maybe for 1 bolt but if you're stripping a whole bike? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

26-02-2020, 05:20 PM	#10
Nickj Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Forest Of Dean Bike: S2r Posts: 3,206	I've got an powered impact driver, it came as a good part deal with a decent drill. I've used it to drive in big screws into sleepers and fences, it feels a bit overkill for casing screws and would just rip the heads off them!! A good wack then undo usually works fine. Oh remember to clean any garbage out of the head first so you use as much of the faces as you can. __________________ "The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature

26-02-2020, 06:03 PM	#12
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	I find a selection of torx drivers useful as a “Second chance” on the allen heads. Just tap them in with lumpy the hammer. __________________ Original and Best since 1993

26-02-2020, 02:58 PM	#3
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	I'm definitely considering investing in metal t-bars. I have some plastic handled ones, and the useful sizes are broken...!

26-02-2020, 03:05 PM	#4
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	I often find that giving the bolt a sharp tap on its head with a hammer and ally drift will jar loose any corrosion and allow it to be removed. Its a similar effect to an impact driver I guess, though the blow is purely axial rather than radial and it will therefore do no damage to the drive hex.

26-02-2020, 03:07 PM	#5
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	That's a good practice - I should probably try that too.

26-02-2020, 03:38 PM	#7
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	I may ultimately strip the whole bike in a year or two. But for now, in doing basic servicing jobs I've managed to round off five socket heads so far. I'm not a pro mechanic by any means, but I'm not inexperienced either, having been working on cars and bikes for about thirty years now (gulp!). Really, I'm just trying to see if there is a way I could be doing things better. Plus Gas is great stuff though - I probably should have thought ahead and doused the whole bike with it!

26-02-2020, 03:54 PM	#8
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,559	I usually do the sharp tap with a hammer bit while the threads are still dry. I find that after applying penetrating oil the effect is not so great. If that fails I'll reach for the penetrating oil and if that fails I'll start applying a bit of heat, if possible. In over 40yrs of spannering, I haven't resorted to buying an impact gun yet.

26-02-2020, 03:56 PM	#9
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	Mental note - must buy a blowtorch, as I'm sure that would have saved me a few times.

26-02-2020, 05:38 PM	#11
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,422	If you feel that the head is more likely to strip than come undone as there is a bit of play in it and you have applied the penetrating oil and even a bit of heat, put some valve grinding paste in the head of the Allen bolt this will take up any slack and allow the Allen key to work.

26-02-2020, 06:12 PM	#14
damien666 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Leeds, West-Yorks Bike: S4Rs Posts: 497	I’ve got the hex and torx versions of these. Very good quality https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDHUS-H...-/164088526378 And snap-on for the 3/8 socket hex and torx, because they are a good fit. ( I’m not a snap-on whore. Just like stuff that fits and works). Last edited by damien666; 26-02-2020 at 06:24 PM..