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26-02-2020, 02:07 PM | #1 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherbourne
Bike: M600
Posts: 401
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Hex/Allen head driver - what do you use?
I've recently had a few issues with corroded bolts rounded off while using Allen keys. I'm wondering whether I may be able to minimise it happening in future by using something electric - a half-way-house between an impact driver and an electric drill. The logic being that shocking something undone means it is less likely to round off, compared to applying torque slowly by hand.
Just curious to hear what everyone uses, and whether you have recommendations for something reasonably lightweight as an alternative to allen keys. Thanks! Nik |
26-02-2020, 02:49 PM | #2 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,091
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I don;t know of anything specific like that. I always replace all the standard Ducati cheese bolts with good quality stainless or titanium and use copperslip.
Use good quality allen keys or the T-drive type which are favoured by the professionals.
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Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage |
26-02-2020, 02:58 PM | #3 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherbourne
Bike: M600
Posts: 401
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I'm definitely considering investing in metal t-bars. I have some plastic handled ones, and the useful sizes are broken...!
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26-02-2020, 03:05 PM | #4 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,559
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I often find that giving the bolt a sharp tap on its head with a hammer and ally drift will jar loose any corrosion and allow it to be removed.
Its a similar effect to an impact driver I guess, though the blow is purely axial rather than radial and it will therefore do no damage to the drive hex. |
26-02-2020, 03:07 PM | #5 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherbourne
Bike: M600
Posts: 401
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That's a good practice - I should probably try that too.
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26-02-2020, 03:30 PM | #6 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,091
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Soak with Plus gas for really stubborn ones. I think you can get electric rattle guns, that some on here are using, but I don't know if they're expensive. Maybe for 1 bolt but if you're stripping a whole bike?
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Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage |
26-02-2020, 03:38 PM | #7 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherbourne
Bike: M600
Posts: 401
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I may ultimately strip the whole bike in a year or two. But for now, in doing basic servicing jobs I've managed to round off five socket heads so far. I'm not a pro mechanic by any means, but I'm not inexperienced either, having been working on cars and bikes for about thirty years now (gulp!). Really, I'm just trying to see if there is a way I could be doing things better.
Plus Gas is great stuff though - I probably should have thought ahead and doused the whole bike with it! |
26-02-2020, 03:54 PM | #8 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,559
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I usually do the sharp tap with a hammer bit while the threads are still dry.
I find that after applying penetrating oil the effect is not so great. If that fails I'll reach for the penetrating oil and if that fails I'll start applying a bit of heat, if possible. In over 40yrs of spannering, I haven't resorted to buying an impact gun yet. |
26-02-2020, 03:56 PM | #9 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherbourne
Bike: M600
Posts: 401
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Mental note - must buy a blowtorch, as I'm sure that would have saved me a few times.
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26-02-2020, 05:20 PM | #10 |
Too much time on my hands member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Forest Of Dean
Bike: S2r
Posts: 3,206
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I've got an powered impact driver, it came as a good part deal with a decent drill.
I've used it to drive in big screws into sleepers and fences, it feels a bit overkill for casing screws and would just rip the heads off them!! A good wack then undo usually works fine. Oh remember to clean any garbage out of the head first so you use as much of the faces as you can.
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"The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature |
26-02-2020, 05:38 PM | #11 |
Too much time on my hands member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Shipbourne
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,422
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If you feel that the head is more likely to strip than come undone as there is a bit of play in it and you have applied the penetrating oil and even a bit of heat, put some valve grinding paste in the head of the Allen bolt this will take up any slack and allow the Allen key to work.
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26-02-2020, 06:03 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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I find a selection of torx drivers useful as a “Second chance” on the allen heads. Just tap them in with lumpy the hammer.
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Original and Best since 1993 |
26-02-2020, 06:11 PM | #13 | |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hondon de los Frailes
Bike: S4r
Posts: 293
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Quote:
Good luck. |
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26-02-2020, 06:12 PM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Leeds, West-Yorks
Bike: S4Rs
Posts: 497
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I’ve got the hex and torx versions of these. Very good quality
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDHUS-H...-/164088526378 And snap-on for the 3/8 socket hex and torx, because they are a good fit. ( I’m not a snap-on whore. Just like stuff that fits and works). Last edited by damien666; 26-02-2020 at 06:24 PM.. |
26-02-2020, 07:27 PM | #15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,733
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Make sure you buy one with a piezo ignite button, saves a bunch of faffing about finding a lighter ... and then some lighter fuel (unless you're a smoker, in which case I guess you won't have that issue)
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Tags |
allen, fasteners, hex, impact driver |
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