Evo 100 wilbers for springs

Had several rides out now , brilliant , silky smooth and front end with correct sag ,well worth fitting
D

[Luddite]

I know Chris.p has a Wilbers shock that he rates very highly. So what weight springs did you get for the forks and what viscosity oil did you use?

[chris.p]

Nice one, now contact K-tech to get the front end sorted out ����

Originally Posted by dwilsonguitars

Had several rides out now , brilliant , silky smooth and front end with correct sag ,well worth fitting
D

10.5 progressive, 7.5 motors
100mm air gap with spacer in and spring out , appreciate ktec would be better but this is such a great improvement for £140 , it's good enough now for my use , matches du 707 perfectly

[Luddite]

Sounds like a good value for money upgrade. Out of interest, did the springs just drop straight in or were any other modifications needed to make them fit?

Direct replacement , they are tapered like originals , on eBay for 106 +10 post

[Luddite]

Result!

[Uncle Bob]

This is interesting, as suspension setup is definitely on my 'to do' list but I'm not inclined to spend the equivalent value of the bike doing it. Need to get some miles on it first though with a bit of tweaking in order to figure out exactly what it is that makes the bike feel like it does.

May I ask, what was your reasoning for making this change? What didn't you like about the stock kit?

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

This is interesting, as suspension setup is definitely on my 'to do' list but I'm not inclined to spend the equivalent value of the bike doing it. Need to get some miles on it first though with a bit of tweaking in order to figure out exactly what it is that makes the bike feel like it does.

May I ask, what was your reasoning for making this change? What didn't you like about the stock kit?

Hi , all evo have soft font springs to much sag , well over half , I think they raised the handle bar riser to compensate , when your sat on bike your front travel is almost all used up , check out any static sag vid on utube , Dave moss is great

[Mossleymonster]

Originally Posted by dwilsonguitars

Hi , all evo have soft font springs to much sag , well over half , I think they raised the handle bar riser to compensate , when your sat on bike your front travel is almost all used up , check out any static sag vid on utube , Dave moss is great

This is interesting, although mines not an evo.

After having my forks re sprung and reshimmed, with 5 weight oil at Maxton £500 I still wasn't 100% happy and I'm still not 100% but I found out there's an Ohins agent 10 miles away from me (Typical although on the surface it looks like they specialise in cars) There's a chap there called Daz who is the only person who's explained all of this in easy to digest chunks. He said they no longer bother with static sag! They only do 'Rider sag'

Anyhow £40 and about 40 minutes later the bike is transformed yet again, now it's predictable and at speed feels more supple and safer. Wish I'd gone there first.

Also, the standard rear Ohlins does not just have rebound adjustment, Daz says that the "rebound" adjuster is a proportional adjuster which also affects compression damping, they adjusted that as well.

To, elucidate further about my previous post on my handling issues, I decided that I couldn't carry on throwing money at this and not getting anywhere, so I plumped for new tyres (Road 5's) When the old Pirelli was being removed the fitter at Bike tyres Leeds called me over and said he'd never seen this before! The carcass of the Pirelli had folded in on itself on the tyre machine. It would seem that the root of a lot of my trouble was the rear tyre.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

When the old Pirelli was being removed the fitter at Bike tyres Leeds called me over and said he'd never seen this before! The carcass of the Pirelli had folded in on itself on the tyre machine. It would seem that the root of a lot of my trouble was the rear tyre.

Glad it's sorted now. Sounds like you had a lucky escape with that tyre. Seems like the bike's been fighting you since you got it what with the front wheel being the wrong way round and the seized shock bolt (and bodged forks!). But I think you've beaten it into submission now!

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

He said they no longer bother with static sag! They only do 'Rider sag'

Funnily enough, watching videos online last night (as per the suggestion above) I found myself wondering what the real point was of measuring static sag?

I get that it's an indicator of how firm the suspension setup is in the first place, but after that it's all dictated by rider weight (mostly)...

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

He said they no longer bother with static sag! They only do 'Rider sag'.

I still think it's worth checking the static sag in conjunction with dynamic sag. If the static sag is insufficient, you could experience excessive topping-out even if your dynamic sag is within the recommended range.

This is what happened when I first fitted an Öhlins DU737 with a 115N/mm spring to my Evo. The sag figures recommended by Öhlins were minimum 10mm static and 25-40mm dynamic. Out of the box, there was virtually zero or 1-2mm static sag but I didn't adjust it because the dynamic sag with me on board was within the recommended range (about 26mm). The ride was not very smooth and I subsequently backed off the preload to give 10mm of static sag while still staying within the recommended dynamic sag range, which improved the ride considerably. I eventually fitted a softer 105/mm spring but still set the same static sag with slightly more dynamic sag, which now suits me perfectly.

Some (much) more knowledgeable people than me have given the following advice on static sag:

This from Niall Mackenzie in 2003:
https://www.visordown.com/features/g...kes-suspension

"If there's no difference, (between shock fully extended and then with the weight of the bike*), you have no sag and you're in trouble. Your bike will be on its nose braking, the rear end will be hopping and pattering, and if you get back on the gas hard out of a corner it'll probably highside you ."

*my words.

Then, from Tony Foale's bible "Motorcycle handling and chassis design"



That diagram graphically illustrates the "hopping and pattering" that Mackenzie described earlier.

Exactly, it is important , I found exact same thing with my 737

On another note. I was shocked how thick and mucky the old fork oil was , bikes only done 4000 dry miles .
4000 is max I'd let fork oil go in future, I used motorex .
There's not much point in the needle valves which limits there function but with every thing set half way rebound and compression feel great