Spring has sprung!

[Luddite]

(If you're reading this, chris.p, you were right; I didn't need a spring compressor!)

I blame Mossleymonster for my latest expense! In his recent post http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=56203 he was looking to fit a softer spring for his 1100S. I had thought about doing that myself, but had put the idea on the back-burner. MM's post got me thinking again.

Some time ago, I replaced the progressive Sachs shock with an Öhlins unit, which was a great improvement. It comes with a 115N/mm linear spring as standard (interestingly, the 1100S Öhlins is 130N/mm, which seems to be way over-sprung in my opinion).

Anyway, although much better than the Sachs, I still thought it was a little firm for my liking (out of the box from Öhlins, there was minimal static sag, maybe 1mm, and I had to wind back the preload a few turns to stop it topping out over bumps). Chatting with Jack at Crescent in Verwood revealed that a softer 105N/mm spring was available so I thought I'd give it a try and picked it up Wednesday.

Fitting is pretty straightforward. To remove the shock, it's necessary to support the back end; a pair of step ladders and a steel tube does the job.



The bolt for the shock's top mount can just be reached with a ring spanner without removing the tank.



With the preload rings wound right down, (this is best done while the shock is still on the bike), the c-plate holding the spring in place is loosened...



...and, with a bit of wiggling, it's removed.



You can see the generous length of preload thread once the spring is removed.



For comparison, here is the Öhlins spring next to the original Sachs unit. You can see the Sachs spring is progressively wound with the coils tighter at the bottom, while the Öhlins is linear.



The Öhlins and Sachs springs are actually almost identical, sizewise. Inner diameters are the same and the Öhlins is just 5mm longer at 170mm. So there's no reason why you couldn't run an Öhlins spring on the Sachs shock, which could be a pretty cost effective way of improving the ride without splashing out on a complete new shock.

At £75, the Öhlins spring is an affordable upgrade.

Note that there are a lot fewer preload threads on the Sachs, so I'm not sure you could release the c-plate just by backing off the preload; a spring compressor might also be needed.

[Luddite]

Just been out for a blast around some favourite backroads with a variety of surfaces including some washboard tarmac, which is always a good test of a suspension setup.

I'm pleased, (read 'relieved'!), to report that it's a noticeable improvement. I've not set the sag properly yet but as soon as you sit on the bike you can feel it's more supple. And over the bumps, it's definitely more compliant with no kicking back.

The original Sachs was awful on these roads - my glasses would bounce off the bridge of my nose at speed. The 115N/mm was a great improvement but this softer spring is better still with barely a flicker fronts the traction control light under acceleration.

I tried upping the pace a bit to check for any downsides and couldn't detect any weaving, wallowing or bottoming. I guess if you ride particularly hard or frequently carry a pillion then the 115N/mm might be a better bet.

Ideally, I'd like to try some 7.5N/mm fork springs like in the Öhlins of the 1100S, but I can't find any suitable for the Evo's Marzocchis. I've currently got 8.5N/mm Ktech springs in, which are the softest they do. If anyone knows anyone who does 7.5N/mm springs for the Evo, please let me know. It's a strange setup on the 1100S - soft at the front and really hard at the back (130N/mm). If any 1100 owners want to try a 115N/mm spring, let me know.

Apologies to Mossleymonster - if I'd done this sooner, he could have had my old 115N/mm spring cheap!

[Mossleymonster]

Ok, lets do forks. The 1100s Ohlins out of the box are ****e! Unpredictable, over sprung and in my opinion untuneable for spirited or comfortable road use. (Read road use)


I'm on one turn in from Min preload

2 clicks in from min rebound

2 clicks in from min compression

The forks need to come apart to find out where mechanical bottom out is, it's impossible to tell from riding or adjustment.

It's still crap, plan of attack is to start from scratch, but reducing the oil level by 5mm in order to use the air spring effect (Boyles law)

Very hard to find any definitive information, I suppose that's why so many charlatans make money in this field, some of their harshest critics might well be dead.

I'll report back when I have something interesting to say other than Free Tommy.

Toodle pip.

Al.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

Also, if you're softening the rear from what is 130 on an 1100s to a 105 where are you at with the front?
I find my front unpredictable, worse than an old VFR we used to run around on.

Hi, Al

I'm about the same weight as you, 80kg with gear, so in theory, depending on personal preferences of course, my settings should also work for you.

Because the Evo forks were so unresponsive, I followed chris.p's example and had them completely rebuilt by Ktech with 8.5N/mm springs and new damper units. Chris's thread shows what work was carried out http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=51391

As I understand it, the springs on your Öhlins are 7.5N/mm, which are about the lightest I've come across, so they should give a pretty compliant ride. Travel on the Öhlins is given as 130mm.

If you think the springs are wrong, then alternatives are available from 6.5 - 11N/mm (part numbers are 04744-65 to 04744-11 - the last two digits are the spring rate), but I'd have thought that 7.5 should be fine for your weight. As I mentioned above, I'd like to try 7.5N/mm myself but can't find any to fit the Evo forks.

I think the standard oil in your forks is 7.5w whereas Ktech put a lighter 5w in mine so you could try that to improve responsiveness. If you're thinking about increasing the air gap, the standard setting (for the Öhlins) is 140mm without spring and sleeve.

The 1100S forks are a modified version of the FG43 model, which has a good reputation, so I'm sure you can get them working to your satisfaction with a bit of fine tuning.

Let us know what changes you make and how you get on.

[Mossleymonster]

Ahhhh The Encyclopedia Ludditica strikes again...

Thank you Sir.

I've just measured my tie wrap following yesterdays blurt, and from the bottom of the fork leg (above the dust seal) to the top of the tie wrap I have 91mm. I don't know if that's mechanical bottom out yet but I doubt it.

Checking the invoice from when the forks were serviced it appears to have been a cocktail of 15 and 10 weight, which is I believe far too heavy for my weight, it will be getting 5's.

All of this will have to wait unfortunately, house move is looming and the delightful Mrs Monster is tightening the purse strings...

[Luddite]

Wow! That oil seems way too heavy - especially as the recommended weight is 7.5w. You should definitely feel a marked improvement with lighter oil. You'll need your suspension at it's best if you're going to take advantage of those Scottish roads!

[Mossleymonster]

Originally Posted by Luddite

Wow! That oil seems way too heavy - especially as the recommended weight is 7.5w. You should definitely feel a marked improvement with lighter oil. You'll need your suspension at it's best if you're going to take advantage of those Scottish roads!

Scottish roads..... I'm so forgetful. Never mentioned, the property in Scotchland fell through!! Lost a giant garage, but we've bought something else on Angelsey, much smaller garage but 1 mile from the beach with a south facing football pitch.......

[Darkness]

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

Scottish roads..... I'm so forgetful. Never mentioned, the property in Scotchland fell through!! Lost a giant garage, but we've bought something else on Angelsey, much smaller garage but 1 mile from the beach with a south facing football pitch.......

Scotland; Anglesey, I often get those two mixed up as well.

[Mossleymonster]

Originally Posted by Darkness

Scotland; Anglesey, I often get those two mixed up as well.

The criteria was never 100% about location, we needed a bungalow and as long as it was semi rural within easy reach of health services etc and of course the right price.

[Mossleymonster]

So, my forks are booked in next week for service with Teut at TW Suspension in Preston. Yesterday I stripped them out. Whilst doing so I found the following:

N/S Front wheel brg rumbling and rusty.
Headstock bearings U/S
Front wheel has been fitted back to front. ie direction arrow cast into wheel points backwards, arrow on tyre points forward.

Bike has done 18,200 miles 1200 in my ownership, good history from authorised dealers.

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Also, to add insult to injury, I noticed in very small print on the side of my "Pirelli Diablo Corsa Tyre" it says 'Made in China' FFS

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[Luddite]

Oops! Lucky you found that out before anything catastrophic happened. No wonder you were less than impressed by the handling/ride.

I predict a happy camper once that's all properly reassembled!

[Mossleymonster]

Originally Posted by Luddite

Oops! Lucky you found that out before anything catastrophic happened. No wonder you were less than impressed by the handling/ride.

I predict a happy camper once that's all properly reassembled!

Aye lad, I knew I'd get to the bottom of it. Makes me wonder if this was the reason it was sold?

Anyway, as they say if you want it done properly, do it yourself...

[jerry]

for the head bearing fit taper rollers they are much better than the standard ones

[Mossleymonster]

I shall be doing thank you.

[Mossleymonster]

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