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03-06-2010, 12:47 PM | #1 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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clip ons fitment
Hi all, think I ask this before everyone disappears from the forum to the WDW
I bought a set of clip ons to replace the handle bar and they have no holes on them. How do I fit the control clusters on the left and right? They came off a Monster 900ie and sure the switches would be similar if not the same. I asked the previous owner and he told me he could not remember... So I guess with the knowledgeable people on the forum can give me some help of how to fit the thing... I know I need to take off the top yoke and refit/reroute cables and hose etc etc.. but how do I go about in fitting the swtches? Do I drill the holes for the little plastic studs on the switches? Thanks in advance |
03-06-2010, 01:03 PM | #2 |
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i did.. when i fitted them to my last bike i lined them up to see wher ei wanted them and marked the nipple on the bar then drilled in...
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03-06-2010, 01:07 PM | #3 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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thanks for you reply, can I get away without drilling? previous owner didn't and how could he fix the throttle grip?
I guess if I can get away without drilling then I won't drill the holes. |
03-06-2010, 01:47 PM | #4 |
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I haven't drilled any holes, just tighten up real good
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03-06-2010, 02:04 PM | #5 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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i see, thanks, next week I will try to fit them and see...
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03-06-2010, 02:41 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,716
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I carefully removed the pegs from the switchgear and wrapped the bars in insulating tape until I achieved the desired interference fit.
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03-06-2010, 02:48 PM | #7 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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Thanks Rob! I was wondering how to fit the switches without the holes and if I cut the little tab, how would I stop the switches from merry-go-round!! Will do that next week. Thanks
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03-06-2010, 03:20 PM | #8 |
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I transferred the holes for switch gear and throttle using original bars as template, worked out perfectly.
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03-06-2010, 03:33 PM | #9 |
Guest
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I might use slob's idea as well.
How many pegs are there on each side? |
03-06-2010, 03:40 PM | #10 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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3 total, 1 on the left and 2 on the right. The left peg is on the front half of the indicator (+ Hi-lo beam). The second is on the top half of start/stop switch. The third is at the bottom of the throttle housing(this is metal infact)... all three are in different sizes as well!! Dremel is out
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03-06-2010, 03:41 PM | #11 |
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I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.
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03-06-2010, 03:44 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Still tightens OK though, only a small piece came off ( Thanks Yan ) |
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03-06-2010, 04:00 PM | #13 |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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I take the pins off - way easier to get the right position
__________________
GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! |
03-06-2010, 04:02 PM | #14 |
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i always prefered to drill the holes simply cos its cheaper to replace the bars if you wanna go back to standard whereas i dont like the thought of the switches not being complete with lugs if i fitted the stock bars back on... (its just a perfectionist thing) they also save youhaving to tighten up the switches which can lead to overtightening and damaging of the switch or stripping of the thread inside the switch..
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03-06-2010, 04:40 PM | #15 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: London
Bike: M620sie
Posts: 348
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Looks like its another scotoiler/no scotoiler thread!
Joking, don't hit me... I think I am inclined to do the de-pegs method. Just that I had to replace my bent stock bar unfortunately the replacement bar came from a 900 carb (i think) and the holes were all over the place and I had to redrill all the holes and I misaligned one and the start/stop switch isn't quite where it should be and it cannot be adjusted. So this time I want a slightly more flexible approach |
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