Choke cable sticking/not working

03-10-2016, 04:53 PM

In the meantime whilst I decide what to do with the Monster (see other thread), my chock cable seems to have stopped working. I can open the choke, but then it refuses to shut. The lever comes back but the cable seems too long?

Does this mean the cable has stretched or is it some other issue with routing?

I have lubricated the choke mechanism but still it refuses to return to closed.

IIRC the Bowden cable is a set length. I do have clip-ons, which, if anything has moved the choke cable further away from the carbs by virtue of them being wider than my bars??

Mr Gazza · 03-10-2016, 05:34 PM

There is naturally a lot of resistance in a Bowden cable as nearly all of the surface of the inner cable touches the inside of the outer, so lubrication is important.
The better cables are nylon lined inside, but even so they are still susceptible to corrosion if water gets down inside.

You can buy (or borrow) hydraulic cable oilers, which force lube all the way down the cable.
You could get away with dribbling a light oil down the inner from the top if you are patient.
You would obviously need to release the top of the cable in both cases.

In a worst case you might have a broken strand on the inner cable which is catching on the return stroke. Replacement would be the only answer to that.

Dukedesmo · 03-10-2016, 10:04 PM

Slightly off-topic but I rigged up a stiff throttle cable with a home made 'funnel' on the throttle end which I filled with WD40 to soak down the cable overnight.

Lightened up the cable OK but then couldn't get the bike to start as the carb (single carb with cable directly in the top) was full of WD40...

04-10-2016, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Slightly off-topic but I rigged up a stiff throttle cable with a home made 'funnel' on the throttle end which I filled with WD40 to soak down the cable overnight.

Lightened up the cable OK but then couldn't get the bike to start as the carb (single carb with cable directly in the top) was full of WD40...

This is only a temporary fix as often the cable still needs replacement but this will get you to work for a few more days / weeks etc

Tried this on the Speed Triple t'other day and it turned out to be the cable fraying inside the end of the outer layer and was so sticky it managed to cause the clutch to slip.

Purely as an aside Triumph have no clutch cables in stock in the Uk - strange for a bike 'made' in England.....

Islander · 03-10-2016, 10:05 PM

It could also be the choke slide on the carbs that's sticking.

03-10-2016, 11:06 PM

Right then. I guess it's airbox off this weekend.

25-08-2019, 08:45 AM

Hi there,

On this thread reference is made to the choke slide sticking. Anyone know how to fix this?

My cable runs fine but the plastic holder on the alloy bar that opens the chokes seems 'sticky'. I suspect the plastic holder may be worn. WD40 hasn't fixed things so any suggestions most welcome.

Nick :-)

Mr Gazza · 25-08-2019, 09:33 AM

I don't think there are any slides as such in your carbs. They are butterfly and diaphram operated. Islander must have still been thinking of the old concentrics or Del Ortos and leading everyone up the garden path (or down memory lane perhaps?)

I don't know how the cold start system works on your carbs, but wouldn't it be logical for the handlebar control to be a bit "stiff" to hold it's position?

I get on much better with silicone when lubricating plastic parts. I think WD40 is inappropriate. "Mr Sheen" is laden with silicone and has often done the trick for me with sticky plastic parts.

Jez900ie · 25-08-2019, 10:19 AM

WD40 may eat away the plastic cable sheath/ case, and after a few days most of the solvent will evaporate, leaving your cable dry and sticking again...

Use one of these for £4 with 3 in one oil?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl...oAAOSwyWZZQnFz

25-08-2019, 10:49 AM

Hi guys, yes I share your thoughts on WD40 but I just wanted to see if I could get things going.
The carb's are as described with diaphrams - the choke cable goes to the back of the carbs and fits into a plastic 'slider' which moves along an alloy bar. This pulls open the choke operation on either side of the carbs via a synchronization bar.
From fiddling around the 'sticking' is caused by the plastic slider not sliding - it will slide by hand but the cable pull takes the slider out of square and causes it to jam. The bike has cover 50,000+ miles so it might just be a case of normal wear and tear and the only option will be to see if this plastic slider can be replaced?
Thanks for your thoughts.
Nick

Mr Gazza · 25-08-2019, 11:57 AM

Well I owe Islander an apology, as it was obviously the slider he was alluding to. I read it as meaning the old fashioned internal choke slide.

If the slider is crippling in it's track, then replacement is probably going to be the only cure.
Moto Rapido would be my first call. 01962 877998 then 1 for parts. You will speak to the extremely helpful and knowledgeable Craig or Luke, and also qualify for a discount as a UKMOC member.

Failing that you could speak to the very helpful Paddy at Ducatipaddy http://www.ducatipaddy.com/

50,000 miles plus... Very respectable, see if you can double it..

03-10-2016, 04:53 PM	#1
Wildfire Guest Posts: n/a	Choke cable sticking/not working In the meantime whilst I decide what to do with the Monster (see other thread), my chock cable seems to have stopped working. I can open the choke, but then it refuses to shut. The lever comes back but the cable seems too long? Does this mean the cable has stretched or is it some other issue with routing? I have lubricated the choke mechanism but still it refuses to return to closed. IIRC the Bowden cable is a set length. I do have clip-ons, which, if anything has moved the choke cable further away from the carbs by virtue of them being wider than my bars??

03-10-2016, 05:34 PM	#2
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,963	There is naturally a lot of resistance in a Bowden cable as nearly all of the surface of the inner cable touches the inside of the outer, so lubrication is important. The better cables are nylon lined inside, but even so they are still susceptible to corrosion if water gets down inside. You can buy (or borrow) hydraulic cable oilers, which force lube all the way down the cable. You could get away with dribbling a light oil down the inner from the top if you are patient. You would obviously need to release the top of the cable in both cases. In a worst case you might have a broken strand on the inner cable which is catching on the return stroke. Replacement would be the only answer to that. __________________

03-10-2016, 10:04 PM	#3
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,894	Slightly off-topic but I rigged up a stiff throttle cable with a home made 'funnel' on the throttle end which I filled with WD40 to soak down the cable overnight. Lightened up the cable OK but then couldn't get the bike to start as the carb (single carb with cable directly in the top) was full of WD40... __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

25-08-2019, 09:33 AM	#8
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,963	I don't think there are any slides as such in your carbs. They are butterfly and diaphram operated. Islander must have still been thinking of the old concentrics or Del Ortos and leading everyone up the garden path (or down memory lane perhaps?) I don't know how the cold start system works on your carbs, but wouldn't it be logical for the handlebar control to be a bit "stiff" to hold it's position? I get on much better with silicone when lubricating plastic parts. I think WD40 is inappropriate. "Mr Sheen" is laden with silicone and has often done the trick for me with sticky plastic parts. __________________

25-08-2019, 10:19 AM	#9
Jez900ie Pleasantly surprised! Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Stoke on Trent Bike: M900ie Posts: 780	WD40 may eat away the plastic cable sheath/ case, and after a few days most of the solvent will evaporate, leaving your cable dry and sticking again... Use one of these for £4 with 3 in one oil? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl...oAAOSwyWZZQnFz __________________ Monsters don't hide under the bed, they sleep inside the shed

03-10-2016, 10:05 PM	#5
Islander Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Herston Bike: M900 Posts: 39	It could also be the choke slide on the carbs that's sticking.

03-10-2016, 11:06 PM	#6
Wildfire Guest Posts: n/a	Right then. I guess it's airbox off this weekend.

25-08-2019, 08:45 AM	#7
Laverda Guest Posts: n/a	Hi there, On this thread reference is made to the choke slide sticking. Anyone know how to fix this? My cable runs fine but the plastic holder on the alloy bar that opens the chokes seems 'sticky'. I suspect the plastic holder may be worn. WD40 hasn't fixed things so any suggestions most welcome. Nick :-)

25-08-2019, 10:49 AM	#10
Laverda Guest Posts: n/a	Hi guys, yes I share your thoughts on WD40 but I just wanted to see if I could get things going. The carb's are as described with diaphrams - the choke cable goes to the back of the carbs and fits into a plastic 'slider' which moves along an alloy bar. This pulls open the choke operation on either side of the carbs via a synchronization bar. From fiddling around the 'sticking' is caused by the plastic slider not sliding - it will slide by hand but the cable pull takes the slider out of square and causes it to jam. The bike has cover 50,000+ miles so it might just be a case of normal wear and tear and the only option will be to see if this plastic slider can be replaced? Thanks for your thoughts. Nick

25-08-2019, 11:57 AM	#11
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,963	Well I owe Islander an apology, as it was obviously the slider he was alluding to. I read it as meaning the old fashioned internal choke slide. If the slider is crippling in it's track, then replacement is probably going to be the only cure. Moto Rapido would be my first call. 01962 877998 then 1 for parts. You will speak to the extremely helpful and knowledgeable Craig or Luke, and also qualify for a discount as a UKMOC member. Failing that you could speak to the very helpful Paddy at Ducatipaddy http://www.ducatipaddy.com/ 50,000 miles plus... Very respectable, see if you can double it.. __________________