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Members: 637 | Total Threads: 50,828 | Total Posts: 518,550 Currently Active Users: 897 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, Snakedog |
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#16 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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Thanks Nasher.
Good call with the screw, but hopefully if you find a winder on your speedo it should still have the screw in it? As it happens I have managed to identify the thread by going through my modelling stuff, in between naps (Glad I booked the week off!). It's unbelievably fine.... 8BA. You're going to need a very fine pozi or Philips screwdriver to get it off.
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 13-06-2017 at 03:25 PM.. |
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#17 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,546
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Yep, the D shape almost certainly scuppers it for me.
Unless they're unobtainable, and there's need for extreme lateral thinking, but it seems they're not. I did wonder how the drive was made. And then while pottering in the garden, I got to thinking ... At first I considered making one in brass with a plain hole, putting a mimic of the speedo shaft in the bore (made of something that resisted solder .. and filing the flat by hand) and then filling the void .. with solder. But I reckon my best shot would be to make one in ally with a fairly thin-walled spigot with a plain, round hole in it. Then bash it into the D shape over a former, clean it up round and true again in the lathe and then sweat a tubular sleeve over the top to bring back the strength. Both ideas could easily fail. Right, tea break over .. back to pottering. I'll ponder something else. ps. or how about broaching the D shape using an old drill shank with a flat ground on it ? You could do the hole first in a fat bar, then turn everything else off that afterwards ? Perhaps even using the homemade broach as an arbor ? I've broached a hexagon in brass like that before, using an allen key. ![]() |
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#18 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,849
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Quote:
![]() Seriously though if you manage to get the knob but not the screw, AFAIK it's just a standard 2mm item, I'm sure I've got some knocking around if you're stuck.
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
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#19 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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M2 is way too big Tim, I bought some recently to hold a Perspex window in an open clutch cover I picked up. The thread seems to be 8BA, which is teenzey.
The screwdriver needed is a Phillips 00 btw. You and me and our over thinking Jeff...The perfect thing for the day.. ![]() I have been finding solutions in the old modelling box. Some carbon tube with 3.5mm ID and 5mm OD, slides over the shaft nicely and also fits the rubber gland in the housing. I reckon if I can fit one of the microscopic little grub screws that I have, into the wall to locate on the shaft's flat, we might have a start. Then I need to fix a washer in the tube so the screw can hold the tube on and it only remains to find something novel for the Knob.... But hopefully Nasher will come good.. ![]()
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,510
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Really sorry Gazza, dug out the spare Monster speedo and it's Knobless.
Sorry if the possibility of benefiting from my Knob got you all excited, but I'm sure an alternative could be just as satisfying. I'm sure you'll find a speedo from something completely different will have a knob with a similar shaft size/design, do you have any local friendly breakers nearby? I have possibly made a big save though, as on looking at the one on my M900 I found the screw was missing and it was only held in by the friction from the rubber grommet. Nasher
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. ![]() |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,510
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Sorry, should have added.
If I was making a new one in my lathe/mill from plastic I'd have the same issues of attempting the 'D' shaped hole. I'd turn it up with a round bore out of something I could test would work well with superglue, then turn a shaft in the same material to the size of the pin. I'd then take a thin slice with a scalpel off the side of the pin and superglue it down inside the hole. It would be plenty strong enough for the application. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. ![]() |
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#22 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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No worries Nasher, Thank you for going to the trouble of looking.
Glad you have spotted your missing screw in time and saved your knob. Obviously well protected by rubber. This is obviously what happened to mine and I would have probably not lost it, but for roughly manhandling it whilst riding. At least you now know where to get another screw. (8BA) Probably best to keep it in your pocket and only apply it to reset until it is properly screwed. There is a warning for all those with mechanical speedos (pre 2001). Give your knob a gentle pull to check that it's firmly attached. If it comes off in your hand, keep it in a safe place until you can get the correct screw locktited in. Screws available here.. http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Complete-...ob::95422.html Just read this back and realise what I've written, but can't be arsed to re-word it....just spit the pips out of it!! ![]()
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: ipswich
Bike: S2r 1000
Posts: 138
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8BA =59.1tpi !!!! i just had a hunt around but that is fine.....sorry couldn't find one.
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#24 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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I like you thoughts on a home made solution Nasher. I might do a version of that with my bit of carbon tube as a temporary fix while I re-order the one from America.
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#25 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,849
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Quote:
I know this because I have some screws in this very size and they are, other than the (flat screwdriver type) head a straight match. I also have a a 'spare' knob/screw combo as I have two 916 speedos; an MPH and a KMH version for the same bike, currently neither fitted as it has a digital dash, and whilst I want to keep the original parts in case I ever put it back to standard someday, I wouldn't need to refit both speedos, only the one. As such (and I hope this comes across right) you're welcome to my spare knob & screw ![]() PM me your address and I'll send you one in the post.
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
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#26 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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Well you've got me thinking now... They might be M3 screws on my cover?
Yes I would love to lay my hands on your knob... Thank you for the very kind offer. PM on it's way..
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#27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,849
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![]() ![]() No problems, happy to help out. ![]()
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
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#28 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,855
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I've totally given up trying to avoid the knob gags now...
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#29 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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If it's any use, I think I have M2x6mm Pozi screws at work if that is the correct size.
I definitely have M2.5 and M3 in varying lengths. So if you need a little screw, long or short I may be able to help- go check your knobs and see. ![]()
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You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! |
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#30 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,510
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I did a contract at a local company a few years ago, and it amused the hell out of me that somebody had set up on their system many years before the part numbers and descriptions for some standard Rotary switch Knobs they brought in from a well known supplier of switches and hardware called Bulgin.
The list went something like: 00001 - Bulgin Knob 1 00002 - Bulgin Knob 2 00003 - Bulgin Knob 3 Etc Etc Whoever set them up must have known what they were doing, and I used to smirk every time I saw them. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. ![]() |
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