Shindengen RR

Flip · 31-03-2022, 08:42 PM

As a result of the Covid thing, a couple of lockdowns and buying the Guzzi
along with all the mundane tasks around the house and working full time I haven’t ridden the Monster much over the last couple of years so with a three days of ‘carry over’ holiday from work I have taken the opportunity to give the bike a good clean up and get a few of those ‘I must do that’ jobs done before it’s MoT and some serious riding miles this Summer.

So after a fresh set of belts, oil change, new plugs and a good service. I also fitted a pair of CCW coils that I bought some time ago after Nasher speaking so highly of the improvement they made to his old carby 900.

While I was playing about with the electrics I also finished off the re-wiring of the positive side of the 30amp starter circuit which had started to show signs of overheating due to oxidation of the copper core not helped by the somewhat marginal wire gauge used by the factory and while at it I also replaced the main (Maxi) fuse and holder with a fresh MTA item.

Next on the list was to finally get around to fitting the Shindengen regulator rectifier salvaged from a Yamaha R1.

First thing was to make a decent heat-sink/mounting plate for it using a piece of 5mm thick ally (instead of the thin 1mm plate the original unit is fixed to), I coated the mounting side of the RR with heat-sink compound to help with thermal transfer and mounted it in the original place under the headstock.

The wires were replaced with some beefier 10awg and Furukawa connectors fitted with their terminals crimped and soldered in place before heat-shrinking using a hot melt tape at the ends to prevent water and dirt ingress.

All I have left to do is fit a suitable charge monitor light system in place of the now redundant bulb within the light cluster.

I haven’t done a ‘how to’ as Kato’s is far better than I could do but here are a few photos that may help others thinking of carrying out this mod.

After that I made up a little lead that allows me to plug my multi-meter directly into the (Tamiya type connector) Optimate charging lead so I can easily check battery voltage with the bike running or not without having to get to the battery itself.

Albie · 31-03-2022, 08:51 PM

That looks a very worthwhile mod. I hope it gives you better service.

alan s4 · 01-04-2022, 07:18 AM

Nice one Flip, I've done it twice now and the difference to starting charging is really noticeable.

Ducati now use the same MOSFET reg/rect in newer models so easier to source used. I bought one last year from a breaking MTS1200 for 40 quid.

They actually run cool to touch (unlike the originals that literally go on fire!) so not sure whether a thick heat sink is really necessary?

Flip · 01-04-2022, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

That looks a very worthwhile mod. I hope it gives you better service.

The original twenty five year old unit was still working but with the state of some of the wiring I thought it prudent to act sooner and replace it rather than wait for it to fail.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alan s4

Nice one Flip, I've done it twice now and the difference to starting charging is really noticeable.

Ducati now use the same MOSFET reg/rect in newer models so easier to source used. I bought one last year from a breaking MTS1200 for 40 quid.

They actually run cool to touch (unlike the originals that literally go on fire!) so not sure whether a thick heat sink is really necessary?

I think I paid about that for this unit from ‘Motorcycle Recycle’ who I’ve used a few times now for second hand parts which are all supplied cleaned and tested.

As for the 5mm heat-sink plate it was as much for mounting the new RR as the hole centres are different to the original. So I used the original mounting position for the lower fixing and countersink the upper fixing for the RR to secure it and then the top plate position fixed to the original stud which allowed me to use it as a binding post for the ground connection.

Mr Gazza · 01-04-2022, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flip

...the original stud which allowed me to use it as a binding post for the ground connection.

I know it's April 1st, but I'm going to risk the klaxon with an Alan Davies type comment and possible minus points..

As far as I know the reg/reg electronic components are potted in the finned case and have no electrical connection with it. The case and heatsink plate are already earthed to the frame via the top mounting bolt, so it begs the question; what is being earthed with the black cable that isn't already?

slob · 01-04-2022, 10:02 AM

WAH ! WAH! WAH!
The hot components are pressed against the heatsink before potting, so the electrical connection is there, belt and braces.

Darren69 · 01-04-2022, 11:15 AM

Belt and braces, wah wah wah! Where does the earth wire come from on the unit?

Mr Gazza · 01-04-2022, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

WAH ! WAH! WAH!

Argh! Bloody klaxon!
I'm going to argue with it though. It says on the mounting instructions of the last R/R that I bought, that there is no electrical connection with the case, but I can accept that all R/Rs are not the same. (It would have been interesting fitting it to a Commando if it was the original positive earth. Many +ve earth bikes have these R/Rs.)

I can't see how pressing the hot components against the case will make an electrical connection, since it would be pressed motherboard side away from the case in order to not just completely short the whole thing out. The tops of the various widgets in contact with the case would have to all be the same (-ve) polarity if indeed they are conductive, which I doubt as some might be ceramic?

Assuming that the case is earthed, what is the black cable doing?

Luddite · 01-04-2022, 02:17 PM

Top work, Flip!

I would say it looks proper factory, but for the better quality components and materials!

As for the testing lead - what a simple but genius idea! I've always checked the voltage via the Optimate lead myself but used probes in the plug, which isn't very satisfactory. I've got a spare Optimate plug set knocking about and some 14 gauge wire so I shall follow your example this afternoon (no banana plugs in the parts bin unfortunately so I'll have to order those).

Thanks for the inspiration, Flip!

Luddite · 14-04-2022, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

As for the testing lead - what a simple but genius idea! I've always checked the voltage via the Optimate lead myself but used probes in the plug, which isn't very satisfactory. I've got a spare Optimate plug set knocking about and some 14 gauge wire so I shall follow your example this afternoon (no banana plugs in the parts bin unfortunately so I'll have to order those).

Thanks for the inspiration, Flip!

Banana plugs arrived today so I made up a set of Flip's leads, (even copied the twist in the wires!). As the plugs are stackable, I can route the Optimate through them and monitor the actual charging voltage in real time.

Funny thing is, when I plugged it into the battery, I got a strange reading...

Maybe I need to pay Flip a royalty before it will work?

31-03-2022, 08:42 PM	#1
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Shindengen RR As a result of the Covid thing, a couple of lockdowns and buying the Guzzi along with all the mundane tasks around the house and working full time I haven’t ridden the Monster much over the last couple of years so with a three days of ‘carry over’ holiday from work I have taken the opportunity to give the bike a good clean up and get a few of those ‘I must do that’ jobs done before it’s MoT and some serious riding miles this Summer. So after a fresh set of belts, oil change, new plugs and a good service. I also fitted a pair of CCW coils that I bought some time ago after Nasher speaking so highly of the improvement they made to his old carby 900. While I was playing about with the electrics I also finished off the re-wiring of the positive side of the 30amp starter circuit which had started to show signs of overheating due to oxidation of the copper core not helped by the somewhat marginal wire gauge used by the factory and while at it I also replaced the main (Maxi) fuse and holder with a fresh MTA item. Next on the list was to finally get around to fitting the Shindengen regulator rectifier salvaged from a Yamaha R1. First thing was to make a decent heat-sink/mounting plate for it using a piece of 5mm thick ally (instead of the thin 1mm plate the original unit is fixed to), I coated the mounting side of the RR with heat-sink compound to help with thermal transfer and mounted it in the original place under the headstock. The wires were replaced with some beefier 10awg and Furukawa connectors fitted with their terminals crimped and soldered in place before heat-shrinking using a hot melt tape at the ends to prevent water and dirt ingress. All I have left to do is fit a suitable charge monitor light system in place of the now redundant bulb within the light cluster. I haven’t done a ‘how to’ as Kato’s is far better than I could do but here are a few photos that may help others thinking of carrying out this mod. After that I made up a little lead that allows me to plug my multi-meter directly into the (Tamiya type connector) Optimate charging lead so I can easily check battery voltage with the bike running or not without having to get to the battery itself. __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

31-03-2022, 08:51 PM	#2
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,033	That looks a very worthwhile mod. I hope it gives you better service. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

01-04-2022, 11:15 AM	#7
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,038	Belt and braces, wah wah wah! Where does the earth wire come from on the unit? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

01-04-2022, 07:18 AM	#3
alan s4 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Glasgow Bike: S4 challenge Posts: 447	Nice one Flip, I've done it twice now and the difference to starting charging is really noticeable. Ducati now use the same MOSFET reg/rect in newer models so easier to source used. I bought one last year from a breaking MTS1200 for 40 quid. They actually run cool to touch (unlike the originals that literally go on fire!) so not sure whether a thick heat sink is really necessary?

01-04-2022, 10:02 AM	#6
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,715	WAH ! WAH! WAH! The hot components are pressed against the heatsink before potting, so the electrical connection is there, belt and braces.

01-04-2022, 02:17 PM	#9
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Top work, Flip! I would say it looks proper factory, but for the better quality components and materials! As for the testing lead - what a simple but genius idea! I've always checked the voltage via the Optimate lead myself but used probes in the plug, which isn't very satisfactory. I've got a spare Optimate plug set knocking about and some 14 gauge wire so I shall follow your example this afternoon (no banana plugs in the parts bin unfortunately so I'll have to order those). Thanks for the inspiration, Flip!