tight or loose chain?

I am about to adjust the chain for the first time!! Given that I usually cock up everything that I do, I thought I would ask the following;

I have read several posts and it seems that a slightly loose chain is better than a slightly tight one: is this true?

Cheers,

[utopia]

Yes, a slightly loose chain is the lesser of two evils.
The reason is that the chain gets tightened as the rear suspension compresses (because the swingarm pivot and the gearbox sprocket are not on the same axis.
But there still needs to be some slack, even at full compression of the suspension.
Insufficient slack will destroy the gearbox output bearing in double quick time.
Not to mention the chance of snapping a chain.
Whereas if its too slack, it'll just flap around a bit.

Thx mate, that makes a lot of sense.

I assume I check the chain slack with the bike on its side stand?

[Darren69]

You need to be careful with the eccentric hub that the bolts are not over tightend as you can damage the hub on single sided arms. I think its 40ft/ib max but worth double checking with someone with a better memory than me

From what i have read it is 33 nms or 25ib torque? Hopefully someone will confirm(s2r 800)

Ther also seems to be differing ideas as to how much slack there should be??

Cheers,

[Darren69]

Actually 33nm sounds right. I think 40ft lb is engine bolts. But yea, don't go mad and really tighten them. I think there are some links somewhere so that you can download the workshop manual and it has all that sort of info in.

[slob]

don't forget used chains have 'tight spots', you need to find the tightest part of the chain by turning the wheel before adjusting, otherwise you'll get it adjusted with a nice 25mm of slack but find it's got no free play somewhere else

33 Nm is correct for the pinch bolts, tighten them then re-check

[Darren69]

Routine maintenance is covered in the Owners manuals which you can download from Ducati.com if you don't have one.

http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do

slob,
Is 25mm enough, some posts say 30-32mm?

Darren,
thx, I have downloaded that.

Cheers,

[chris.p]

One thing to remember, once you set the chain slack with the bike on a paddock stand, and have then checked for tight spots, lean over the seat from the right hand side , let your stomach take your full body weight and pull your chain upwards and see how much slack you have with all your body weight on the bike, it should move 10-15mm.

[stopintime]

Yes, 33 Nm.

Grease bolts and tighten in a 1-2-1 -2-1-2 pattern (important).

30-32 mm chain movement (S*R bikes! Totally different for newer models) With stock suspension, those 30-32 mm will change to ~10(+?) mm when the suspension is compressed the most = when the front sprocket, swing arm bolt and axle are alligned.

I do a chain check every time I lubricate it and of course when I adjust it. Check every link to see if they are moving freely. I also check the chain for stretch wear - by pulling it backwards on the rear sprocket - if I can pull enough to see half a sprocket tooth, it's close to worn out.

[Nickj]

A tight chain will also destroy the splines on the gearbox sprocket and the output shaft.

Not so loose it flaps like knicker elastic (falls off or whips and snaps)

Not so tight it tugs on the tight points (trashes sprocket and shaft unless it snaps first)

And of course if you can push it sideways and it curves bin it and get a new one (with no tight spots)

Oh and a chain oiler is not a bad idea, Loobman is cheap and simple but it works fine.