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12-09-2022, 08:17 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Rear shock removal
Hi guy’s,
Trying to remove the rear shock on my 1100evo, the allan bolt at the bottom is solid. Has anybody successfully removed it? And any tips? Also another couple questions just to chuck in. My understanding is that the 899 brakes are a straight swap? Can anyone confirm and is it there something about needing the 899 brake lines too? Also just a random as i seen them on ebay; does anybody know if the 899 front forks fit the 1100evo. Thanks again guy’s. |
12-09-2022, 08:52 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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Hey James, have you got access to an impact gun? I've got a corded version if you want to borrow it.
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12-09-2022, 09:58 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Hi Alan,
Yep impact gun 1/2” and an impact driver plus I’ve got a 600mm breaker bar. So far I’ve only tried the breaker bar…hopeless. I’m a bit reluctant to attack it with an impact gun atm, wouldn’t want to damage the thread on the swing arm I’m temped to try the lower powered impact driver first. I’ve covered it in plus gas to see if that helps. |
12-09-2022, 10:37 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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I'm not sure about the forks, Ron, but you might find it more cost effective to have your standard set reworked by K-tech or Maxton.
Chris.p did the caliper change and they were a straight swap other than he needed the 899 link pipe. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=54739 As for the shock screw, this is notorious for seizing and, as Alan said, an impact gun will be needed (to avoid possible damage to the paint, just make sure your allen socket is deep enough to reach the screw without touching the swinging arm itself - and also make sure it's a proper impact bit too - an ordinary socket may shatter). You may need to resort to heat. If so, a gas-powered soldering pen may be useful. I've got an Iroda one like this and it has a heatgun nib, which uses a catalyst so there's no naked flame but it would be small enough to just heat the screw head. E.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154904161766 |
12-09-2022, 10:46 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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PS Ryan had problems removing his bolt - you can read his solution here http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=57421
(You probably would'nt want to cut the shock mount though! ) |
12-09-2022, 05:24 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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I’ll have a go with the impact driver before going to the full on impact gun.
I’m going to stop the breaker bar technique, i reckon it’ll start making the allen head bolt ‘baggy’. I’ll report back with results…and tears if it all goes pear shaped. I was just curious about the 899 suspension as i happened across a set for £500 whilst browsing 899 callipers. Which curiously enough is similar money to andreani fork internals but with nice fork tubes. |
12-09-2022, 06:55 PM | #7 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hondon de los Frailes
Bike: S4r
Posts: 288
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I once had an absolute nightmare removing the bottom shock bolt on my s4r, I didn't have any issues loosening the bolt, but I couldn't remove it - the Allen screw had 'picked up' on the bottom shock mount, and no amount of jiggling & wiggling would remove it, I ended up welding an 'easy out' extractor to a slide hammer - that got it out!
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13-09-2022, 01:20 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Ok just tried an impact gun. No way no how is that coming out. Only option left is heat. Or maybe a backup plan i hoped not to want to do.
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13-09-2022, 01:26 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Well would you adam and eve it. I decided (before i go for heat) I’d just have a quick go on my 1000mm 3/4” breaker bar and a reducer to 1/2”. It’s done the trick, the bolt has moved.
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13-09-2022, 01:51 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Excellent!
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13-09-2022, 05:53 PM | #11 |
preneolithic frebie
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cambridge
Bike: S4Rs
Posts: 319
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Great result Ron
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13-09-2022, 08:32 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Still need to go through the removal process. I need to get a way of lifting the bike to take the weight off, currently I’ve got two axle stands under the footpegs and seems to be working well. But I’m going to wait until i get a second opinion on it
But the important bit is that the top nut and bottom hex bolt are moving. Also spoke to a local suspension guy and he’s happy to have a look and service the shock. Next step front suspension re-work then after that I’ll get the 899 brakes bought and fitted. |
13-09-2022, 08:42 PM | #13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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18-09-2022, 08:12 AM | #14 |
Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bradford
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 175
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Glad you had more luck than me on the bolt removal. Shame you are so far away otherwise I would have been happy to lend you my abba stand to sort out your jobs.
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18-09-2022, 08:42 AM | #15 |
Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Moreton-in-Marsh
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 1,082
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I just take the bolt out every year clean regrease and pop it back in.
It’s a lot easier with an abba stand.
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