Arrow end can.

[crawsue]

Been looking at end can options and the Arrow range looks best cost effective option, but some of the advertisers say "only fits designated Arrow link pipe" .....how so?
Has anyone fitted to the standard link pipe? Can't be too difficult to junk the valve,for at least immobilise it.
Or has anyone got a better plan?.....funds severely limited!
I had Leo Vinci's (open) on the 696, the sound was glorious.

I was looking at the Arrow for the wifes M821. Ebay seems to be the place to buy but the main seller on there is so unhelpful.
I have just fitted Termis on my Supersport but they were much cheaper than the monster ones and there is no alternative for that bike.

[Luddite]

There's no standard link pipe as such on the Evo; it forms part of the silencer and it's not possible to separate it from the end can.

The section containing the exhaust valve is the mid-pipe, which ends under the footrest, so all aftermarket silencers, including the Termis, need a link pipe to fill in the gap.



As for the exhaust valve, it can be immobilised via an ECU remap

(http://cornerspeed.co.uk/tuning.php)

or using a duc.ee or similar

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servo-Exh...-/282513464822

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-Mo...-/322862116112

Once the exhaust valve is disabled, you can remove it completely by changing the mid-pipe itself. The only commercially available replacement that I'm aware of is from QD Exhausts

http://www.qdexhaust.it/en/catalogo/...atore-valvola/

But it's not cheap so not really an option if you're on a budget.

Are you saying that i cannot just connect a can and pipe to the 50mm pipe just after the exhaust valve?
I can disable the exhaust valve and just wire lock it open.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by BobT

Are you saying that i cannot just connect a can and pipe to the 50mm pipe just after the exhaust valve?
I can disable the exhaust valve and just wire lock it open.

Quite the opposite! I'm just saying you need that link pipe to join the can to the mid-section. Whether that's the Arrow part (71452) or you make your own version is up to you.



If you plan to fabricate it yourself, be aware that the can sits outboard of the mid-pipe (as in the photo)



so you'll have to be accurate with your bends to ensure the two parts marry up.

I see the Arrow link is going for around £80 and I'm sure a good exhaust fabricator could make one up for you for a fraction of that.

By the way, you won't need to wire open the exhaust valve - the default position is fully open when disabled.

Don't forget to post pictures once you've fitted the can. I had Arrows on my S2R and the quality was second to none.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by BobT

Are you saying that i cannot just connect a can and pipe to the 50mm pipe just after the exhaust valve?
I can disable the exhaust valve and just wire lock it open.

Oops! Sorry, Bob, I've only just realised you were talking about the 821 rather than the Evo. So the link pipe you need is 71451.

I think what I said about the Evo will still apply to the 821 though.

It was the link pipe 71452, that I was trying to get information about. That part is all in one with the standard Ducati can. The seller listed it as for 1200 only, but I could not see any difference between the new 821 and the 1200. I even popped in to Ducati Abingdon when I was in the UK and measured both bikes at 50mm.
I have wire locked the exhaust valve open on the 848 and the Supersport as I am a belt and braces sort of person.

I was looking at this one on ebay. CLICK but it states for the 2014 model and the wifes M821 is brand new. I assume that the 2014 model had a different diameter pipe, but don't really know.

[crawsue]

Now looking at the GPR Power cone, a bit more expensive perhaps, but it looks like it fits without a link pipe? Any thoughts?

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by crawsue

Now looking at the GPR Power cone, a bit more expensive perhaps, but it looks like it fits without a link pipe? Any thoughts?

That's a good looking can. It might even let you remove the rear wheel without taking off the silencer first.

I think it still has a link pipe (you can see the springs holding it on in the picture) but it seems to be included in the price of the can.

[crawsue]

I'm going to contact them and confirm what fittings are included.
If it is as advertised I can disconnect the valve (either way) . Is the ECU adjustable?
I have a Sprint ST 1050 and there are always different downloads available, is this what is called here a "reflash"?

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by crawsue

I'm going to contact them and confirm what fittings are included.
If it is as advertised I can disconnect the valve (either way) . Is the ECU adjustable?
I have a Sprint ST 1050 and there are always different downloads available, is this what is called here a "reflash"?

Yes, the ECU can be overwritten (reflashed). If you plan to disconnect the exhaust valve, you will need either a reflash or a plug-in disabling device like a duc.ee.

I'd recommend sending your ECU to Neil at Cornerspeed (01623 238944) http://cornerspeed.co.uk/tuning.php He'll remap it, disable the lambdas and exhaust valve and, if my experience is typical, will get it back to you within the week.

[Evostu]

Fitted an sc project can to my evo,came with link pipe included,cheaper than arrow too

[crawsue]

Thanks for all the input, I have a local dyno guy who works with loads of Scottish based race and track teams, I spoke with him today and he will do a set up on the Dyno when I get a can sorted.
I'll post the results when I'm sorted.
BTW, got the back brake lever properly set, but still not very effective, changed the fluid and bled both front and back....front now superb....back superfluous!

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by crawsue

BTW, got the back brake lever properly set, but still not very effective, changed the fluid and bled both front and back....front now superb....back superfluous!

Have you tried flipping the caliper over before bleeding it? This from http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...d.php?p=552311

Originally Posted by Luddite

The rear brake is well known for losing its effectiveness and will benefit from periodic bleeding. That's easier said than done though as you'll have noticed that the bleed nipple is on the bottom of the caliper and so it's very nearly impossible to remove all the air with the caliper in situ. I'd recommend unbolting it and flipping it over so it sits on the top if the disc like this:



Put some masking tape on the caliper first to protect the paintwork as it will rub against the swinging arm in this position. It won't slide fully onto the disc but it's enough to hold it in the right position to bleed it properly. You can see the bleed nipple is now at the highest point.

Once properly bled, it should be firm enough to lock the rear wheel.