Swinging arm bearings/pivot advice, please?

[Martin C]

My 1995 M900 has just scraped though its MOT at 43,000 miles, with an advisory for play 'between the swingarm and frame' (standard MOT failure wording, of course). I'm going to sort it out without delay, but it's not a job I've ever done before (not on any bike).

My trusty Haynes manual doesn't make it seem like too tricky a job, but I thought it best to ask on here for any specific advice, please? Is it usually necessary to replace just the bearings? or the pivot pin? or both?

Also, the manual says an early pivot pin without a circlip should be replaced by the later circlip type: why is this? I don't know if mine will be the earlier type, but a new pivot pin is £108!

I anticipate that the existing shims can probably be re-used, as their necessary thickness is presumably more likely to derive from manufacturing variations in the crankcase holes and swinging arm than the bearings themselves.

Any advice will be much appreciated, thanks. Martin

[Dukedesmo]

I've not changed the bearings, did think about it when I had a swingarm problem but they looked and felt fine so I left them.

As to the pivot/spindle, the clips on the end stop it sliding out if for some reason it comes loose.

Check out my cracked swingarm thread for more info: http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=60544

Whilst it didn't, mine could have come out far enough to cause me to crash. Obviously the cause of it coming out was the swingarm cracking but had the spindle had the circlips on each end it would not have slid out.

To add, as the pictures show I did have the circlip type spindle just that my swingarm didn't allow for them to be fitted, the new one does and I'm happier with that setup.

[utopia]

I've changed the bearings on my 750 .. when I fitted a 900 ally swingarm.
It was a while back and so the memory is a bit hazy but it wasn't exactly an easy job.
I had to buy a bearing puller/slide hammer kit and even with that it wasn't easy.
Had to slit the bearing case on at least one of the four bearings with a dremel to get it out.
Managed it in the end but its definitely tricky in my experience.
Also the spindle did show some signs of wear.
I may have been able to reuse it but the ally arm needed a longer one anyway.
No telling how yours is til you get it out unfortunately.

[900Rebuilder]

Depending on what spindle you need I have the original non circlip type sat in my spares pile as I needed a different version in the end from DD. Brand new genuine part and also have a similar new one which I believe is for the 600

[slob]

PITA! Don’t expect to get the old bearings out in one piece. Get the new ones in the freezer overnight (sealed bags obviously) and fit them straight from the freezer, for easiest installation. Pack as much grease in there as you can. Luckily it doesn’t need doing very often.

[jerry]

getting new ones in without damaging them is not easy even frozen , loads of grease and the casing heated up and a puller at least 1 new one always ends up a little tight

getting old ones out heat , and a massive hammer and drift is best ,, slide hammer pullers are a waste of time on these ..... I have done it 4 times on 3 different ducatis

why did they not stick with the old bush sysle bearings like on my 750ss ,, much more reliable and simple

[Martin C]

At present, I have aborted trying to fix the slight wear in the swinging arm bushes/pivot. After spending ages stripping off almost everything to get there, I realised I had a Catch 22 situation: the bike has a very useful centre-stand to support it, but to access the final fasteners I need to remove both footpeg sub-frames. I started to do so, then it suddenly dawned on me that some of their bolts are also the ones holding the centre-stand to the bike…. As far as I can see, it must require a proper wheelsfree bike lift to do the job. I reckon I’ll just clean things up and reassemble. It was only an MOT advisory.

[Darren69]

You need an Abba stand mate by the sounds if you wanna borrow mine?

[Martin C]

Originally Posted by Darren69

You need an Abba stand mate by the sounds if you wanna borrow mine?

Hi Darren, many thanks for your kind offer: but how does it attach to the bike’s frame? If/when I do eventually attack the task in the future, I will gladly take you up on this, thanks again.
It’s also now apparent to me from other replies that in any case I definitely can’t do the job in the very cramped working space in my little shed, set up in between 2 other bikes, so I would need to shift it outside in a warmer season!

[Mr Gazza]

A centre stand is still way the best way to support the bike to do this and you're right about the footrest shoulder bolts holding the forward mounting holes of the centre stand brackets.

Just take the footrest hangers off on the side or paddock stand and then substitute the forward stand bolts for normal M10 bolts or put the shoulder bolts back in naked.

I had one mounted on an SS which doesn't even have footrest hangers nor shoulder bolts and standard bolts worked fine.
Just don't put too long a bolt in as it could puncture the crankcases!!
I've got a couple of the bolts used on the ST2/4. M10 x 20 I think.

Urgent edit.. Don't take the shoulder bolts out with the bike on the side stand as one holds the side stand too.
You must put an M10 back in the side stand too or it will swivel round and the bike will fall over.. Ask not how I know.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Martin C

As far as I can see, it must require a proper wheelsfree bike lift to do the job.

A couple of axle stands and a length of threaded rod does the job nicely;



Even a long 'T' bar allen key;

[Darren69]

Actually now I think about it the Abba stand uses the swing arm pivot but can also use the foot pegs so I guess you're snookered unless you go with Dr Dukes method.

[Mark64]

I fabricated a stand from 40mm box section that fitted underneath the seat subframe, just in front of the seat lock, to enable removal of the swingarm, I'm pretty sure I gave it to Darren when I sold him my bike..I have a photo of it but can't post it because resaons (technophobe)

[350TSS]

If the shed has reasonably robust rafters you can hang the bike on ratchet straps from the roof, failing that two step ladders and and a scaffold pole