A good couple of days and hopefully making some progress.
To ensure I had a working rear brake light I had to bleed the brakes (re-wiring the hydraulic switch meant it had to be taken off the master cylinder). Always a pain bleeding the back brake but when I worked out that the pipe union was drawing air and nipped it up it only took about 20 minutes (having spent an hour getting lots and lots of bubbles but hardly any draw through from the master cylinder).
The rear brake return spring is an unsatisfactorily home bent spring and coupled with a slightly notchy feel to the pedal, I decided to rework the arrangement.
The notchiness was due to the push rod not being perfectly aligned with the axis of the MC. Originally I had the MC on 12mm spacers off the footrest hanger(and as such was a bit intrusive on footrest space) and with the original standard slotted end fitting it needed to be a further 1mm outboard of the footrest plate to alleviate the notchiness in the lever. I decided to go with a spherical bearing mounted inboard of the pedal. The spherical bearing is more tolerant of any misalignment. The spring was re-bent to actually exert some return pressure. I had to machine up some narrower spacers and the mechanism is now really sweet in operation.
Today I spent my time trying to get a viable spark. Given that I had power at the coils I started there, swapping the wires to the coils - no result, running an earth lead from the coil bodies I did not expect to have any effect and I wasn't disappointed, similarly the removal of the plug caps and trying to track to the cylinder head studs.
I now knew I had a more serious issue, but where to start? I am as sure as I can be that I wired the Ignitech unit correctly but all the wires were wrapped in tape and incorporated into the loom and that would be a long and arduous task to remove it.
The FastBikegear hall effect triggers were my first port of call. This comprises an aluminium rotor bolted to the belt drive sprocket in the centre of the Vee with two rare earth magnets pressed into the the outer portion of the rotor. The sensors are mounted on a 3D printed nylon plate that bolts on the outside of the belt covers. You have to cut a 50mm hole in the belt cover to allow the rotor to project through.
I fitted CF belt covers and always had a concern that this cover was not correctly positioned.
After a lot of measuring I believe I may have found my spark problem. On the basis of my calculations I currently have a 5.2 mm air gap between the rotor and the sensors. I have no idea what it should be but I have a feeling it should be between 0.2 and 0.1mm. Tomorrow we shall try to obtain that gap and try again, fingers crossed.
fried chicken wilmington nc