Quote:
Originally Posted by Luddite
Also correct. But how do you know when it's set correctly? With my DU737, the "correct" setting was between 25-40mm so my original 26mm was "correct" according to the book. It wasn't until I also checked the static sag that I was able to arrive at the correct setting for my weight. Correct rider sag will, by definition, also include the correct static sag.
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Well, yes and no. You said that you backed off the preload to give you an extra 10mm, but that 10mm really only counts when you're on the bike, right? Because surely only a mad man would 'tune' a bike's suspension for when the rider isn't on it!?!
So what I'm saying is, instead of thinking of it as 10mm static + 26mm rider, the adjustment method is the same i.e. wind off a bit of preload, therefore isn't it the same as basically 36mm rider sag? Because ultimately where the bike rests in its travel is one of the crucial parts of this.
Guys, the fundamental question here is: What is the point of static sag? The inference being that it's just an 'extension' of rider sag. In other words, where your suspension rests in its travel with you sitting on it, and therefore surely the most important measurement.
I think this is probably what mossleymonster's sus guys were hinting at. It's interesting. And let's not forget that the term 'correct' in the context of suspension can be quite subjective. I mean, if it tops out, bottoms out, dives, squats etc. it's obviously not 'correct', but beyond that it's about feel.