Hopefully vaguely more interesting?
It obviously makes sense to determine the decal position before stripping the paint.
I have a method based on the way we used to mark out waterlines on boats, I've done a few of these on many from models to 31 footers, including tapered boot lines.
First step is to level the tank fore and aft and side to side using the filler cap as a level surface. (The filler cap is out, but the surround is the same.)
I had always assumed the decal was level with the ground. (or filler cap)
Much to my surprise they are miles out on the spare tank, which I assume to have an original paint job. The right hand decal on mine is level as expected, but the left tilts down to the front a long way. The "I" is the same height as the right. The tape is level in both shots.
All 4 decals also differ in for and aft position. Not that I'd accuse the Ducati paint shop of being a bit slap happy here, but..
For reference, the one I regard as correct in my opinion is 280mm from the bench top and level. It's 190mm from the radius of the panel rearwards and 100mm from the front radius.
When I mark out to position the new decals, or masks for spraying them, I will set the tank up like this again and run a chinagraph pencil along the top of a block @ 280mm minus half the diameter of the pencil to get the height and level. fore and aft can be measured from the panel radii and marked.
I will also be masking off the sticker which identifies the return and flow fuel pipes.
I have to chuckle at people who don't note these things before they take them apart, how hard can it be?
More poxy detritus was extracted after the tipping around of the tank, and another handful after I took this picture and another stone.
It beggars belief why people use this muck! It doesn't work, takes up room that petrol could use, adds weight, makes proper repairs more difficult causing problems for the future and wastes money. Other than that give it a go.
