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350TSS · 04-12-2017, 04:54 AM

Typically, I go to bed between 10.00 and 11.00 pm and recently my rheumatoid arthritis has been waking me around 3.00 am (every bloody morning). I cannot go back to sleep and I have to get up to move and ease the stiffness and throbbing in my joints. Ibuprofen helps but concentrating on something I enjoy pushes the discomfort to the back of my consciousness. Hence the tedious and overlong (?) posts on here.
This morning I thought more about the situation I am in re the positioning of the electrics, worrying if the MUV2 electronic control box and /or the ignitech ignition box will be the victim of magnetic or electronic interference from the coils. My real concern was that the effects would be partial (at particular rev ranges) or intermittent. Reading on the internet about EMI/RFI and protecting for it there does not seem to be a “silver bullet” solution. In certain circumstances, if you screen cables and you do not do it correctly the screen itself can act as an antenna and make the problem worse.
The worst-case scenario would be putting it all together having stripped everything down and rebuilt it and it would not start or ran roughly. Is it the carbs, the ignition timing, the cam belt timing, the valve clearances, my wiring harness? – any one of a thousand things. Best not to go there.
My problem/source of worry is self-generated - a function of positioning of the equipment - so change the design and reposition the equipment. The sensitive stuff is the MUV2 and potentially the Ignitech box.
From the internet I glean that the potential sources of EMI/RFI are coils and plug leads, the rectifier/ regulator, starter motor and starter solenoid. The MUV2 manual only requires 300mm separation from the coils, no mention of any other equipment.
I need to move the coils from their current location but to where?
Options are:
1) To the rear of the battery tray (they will fit here but is underneath the carburetor float bowls so a potential fire hazard and not quite 300mm away from MUV2 unit)
2) To the under-seat tray (easiest option but too far away so long HT leads required and long power/trigger cables to coil)
3) Cut out a location on the underside of the tank above and behind the carburetors and attach to a plate bonded to the underside of the tank
(a lot of work to do this given current state of the mold and attaching coils to the tank is hardly ideal also it is likely to be a location that is hot being above and just in front of the vertical cylinder. Also concerns re the length of lead required to ensure that the tank can be fitted and removed ie lengths of trailing wire)
4) Cut out a location on the underside of the tank above and behind the carburetors and make a bracket(s) brazed to the frame and attach the coils to these, avoids the maintenance and lead length issues but it will still be hot here (no hotter than the original Monster location though).
Before I started writing this Option 1 was favoured but option 4 is probably the right answer, unfortunately it involves the most additional work.
The coil enclosure originally envisaged will now house the Ignitech box so it can be reduced significantly in size allowing better airflow to the rear cylinder so a bit more work as well but a better all-round solution.
My job list to conclusion (maintained on an excel spread sheet) is now 251 distinct jobs over an hour long totaling 449 hours.

04-12-2017, 04:54 AM	#420
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Typically, I go to bed between 10.00 and 11.00 pm and recently my rheumatoid arthritis has been waking me around 3.00 am (every bloody morning). I cannot go back to sleep and I have to get up to move and ease the stiffness and throbbing in my joints. Ibuprofen helps but concentrating on something I enjoy pushes the discomfort to the back of my consciousness. Hence the tedious and overlong (?) posts on here. This morning I thought more about the situation I am in re the positioning of the electrics, worrying if the MUV2 electronic control box and /or the ignitech ignition box will be the victim of magnetic or electronic interference from the coils. My real concern was that the effects would be partial (at particular rev ranges) or intermittent. Reading on the internet about EMI/RFI and protecting for it there does not seem to be a “silver bullet” solution. In certain circumstances, if you screen cables and you do not do it correctly the screen itself can act as an antenna and make the problem worse. The worst-case scenario would be putting it all together having stripped everything down and rebuilt it and it would not start or ran roughly. Is it the carbs, the ignition timing, the cam belt timing, the valve clearances, my wiring harness? – any one of a thousand things. Best not to go there. My problem/source of worry is self-generated - a function of positioning of the equipment - so change the design and reposition the equipment. The sensitive stuff is the MUV2 and potentially the Ignitech box. From the internet I glean that the potential sources of EMI/RFI are coils and plug leads, the rectifier/ regulator, starter motor and starter solenoid. The MUV2 manual only requires 300mm separation from the coils, no mention of any other equipment. I need to move the coils from their current location but to where? Options are: 1) To the rear of the battery tray (they will fit here but is underneath the carburetor float bowls so a potential fire hazard and not quite 300mm away from MUV2 unit) 2) To the under-seat tray (easiest option but too far away so long HT leads required and long power/trigger cables to coil) 3) Cut out a location on the underside of the tank above and behind the carburetors and attach to a plate bonded to the underside of the tank (a lot of work to do this given current state of the mold and attaching coils to the tank is hardly ideal also it is likely to be a location that is hot being above and just in front of the vertical cylinder. Also concerns re the length of lead required to ensure that the tank can be fitted and removed ie lengths of trailing wire) 4) Cut out a location on the underside of the tank above and behind the carburetors and make a bracket(s) brazed to the frame and attach the coils to these, avoids the maintenance and lead length issues but it will still be hot here (no hotter than the original Monster location though). Before I started writing this Option 1 was favoured but option 4 is probably the right answer, unfortunately it involves the most additional work. The coil enclosure originally envisaged will now house the Ignitech box so it can be reduced significantly in size allowing better airflow to the rear cylinder so a bit more work as well but a better all-round solution. My job list to conclusion (maintained on an excel spread sheet) is now 251 distinct jobs over an hour long totaling 449 hours.