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utopia · 16-11-2016, 01:16 AM

Yep, the snap ring is the "lip" and in my experience the bearings are next to impossible to knock out with a drift.
There are inboard and outboard seals on both sides, with a pair of bearings between them, so four of each in total.
The (my) bearings are a really tight fit in the cases and require seriously focussed efforts to extract them without resorting to a dremel (and risking damage to the cases).
I had to buy a heat gun, to warm the cases, and a blind bearing puller (which I then had to modify), and still it was not an easy job at all. ... and the kit cost £50.
Then I had to tweek out all the rollers and remove the cages from each bearing, so I could dremel a weakening groove in the outer shells, before they could be got out. And heat the cases.

But ....
If they're gone (and the presence of water in the cases suggests that they are), you'll have to change them.
If you're extremely lucky and they're ok (look out for flying pigs !!) then you'll need new outer seals each side ...and they're easy peasy.
If the bearings are shot, you will probably see corresponding wear on the shaft where they roll (in direct contact). ...and you will therefore possibly need a new shaft too.

My advice would be to get someone else to change them .. someone who has done it before and knows the score. (possibly BSD at Peterborough in your case ?).
It may cost you but it will be worth it to avoid the frustration and torment of doing it yourself ... and you'd need £50 worth of tools anyway.

Even then its not all over as there is a very high chance of nicking the new seals when you put it all back together and refit the shaft.
I have a sneaking suspicion that a fair proportion came out of the factory with nicked seals from new.
Its just a difficult assembly and, beyond making sure the shaft has no sharp edges (my new one had loads) and is well lubed, there's not a lot you can do to avoid it.
Assembling with a twisting motion may help.
I will be replacing my outer seals (and regreasing the bearings) every couple of years from now on.

The two thick shims are the same size, so can go either side.
The extra, thin shims all go on the brake side, if I remember correctly (will edit if not, but I'm pretty sure).

16-11-2016, 01:16 AM	#27
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,545	Yep, the snap ring is the "lip" and in my experience the bearings are next to impossible to knock out with a drift. There are inboard and outboard seals on both sides, with a pair of bearings between them, so four of each in total. The (my) bearings are a really tight fit in the cases and require seriously focussed efforts to extract them without resorting to a dremel (and risking damage to the cases). I had to buy a heat gun, to warm the cases, and a blind bearing puller (which I then had to modify), and still it was not an easy job at all. ... and the kit cost £50. Then I had to tweek out all the rollers and remove the cages from each bearing, so I could dremel a weakening groove in the outer shells, before they could be got out. And heat the cases. But .... If they're gone (and the presence of water in the cases suggests that they are), you'll have to change them. If you're extremely lucky and they're ok (look out for flying pigs !!) then you'll need new outer seals each side ...and they're easy peasy. If the bearings are shot, you will probably see corresponding wear on the shaft where they roll (in direct contact). ...and you will therefore possibly need a new shaft too. My advice would be to get someone else to change them .. someone who has done it before and knows the score. (possibly BSD at Peterborough in your case ?). It may cost you but it will be worth it to avoid the frustration and torment of doing it yourself ... and you'd need £50 worth of tools anyway. Even then its not all over as there is a very high chance of nicking the new seals when you put it all back together and refit the shaft. I have a sneaking suspicion that a fair proportion came out of the factory with nicked seals from new. Its just a difficult assembly and, beyond making sure the shaft has no sharp edges (my new one had loads) and is well lubed, there's not a lot you can do to avoid it. Assembling with a twisting motion may help. I will be replacing my outer seals (and regreasing the bearings) every couple of years from now on. The two thick shims are the same size, so can go either side. The extra, thin shims all go on the brake side, if I remember correctly (will edit if not, but I'm pretty sure).