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350TSS · 17-09-2019, 06:17 PM

I only managed an hour in the garage yesterday but did get the seat hump diaphragm bonded into place. First I applied resin resistant tape to the outside of the seam them copious resin applied to fill any gaps and then 3 laminations of 25mm wide CF woven tape. It seems to have worked OK.

I then spent half an hour rubbing down the JB Weld on the tank seam, it is a lot harder than filler and does not easily rub down to a polished surface. It stays with a very granular surface. By the nature of where it is, it is awkward to rub down, a block can only be used on about 25% of the area to be smoothed off and getting a smooth leak free seam is going to take a good few hours to complete.
Today was spent bonding in the seat latch mechanism to the seat diaphragm, which was not easy as access was via the glove box hole and then only to the 3 sides visible. First I had to make up a 6mm spacer to raise one side of the seat. It is now as near as dammit level but a bit higher than I really wanted (about 6mm).

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I shall probably end up having to apply a lamination from the outside. It was quite tricky to keep the resin away from the latch mechanism itself. Once the resin was applied the seat was gaffer taped into the right position and it was left to cure. Tomorrow will tell.

upload img

I am re-considering the rear light mount yet again and the reason is that the final position of the seat and the under hump diaphragm to which the light is attached is virtually parallel with the rear frame rails, i.e. rising at 60 degrees. . The LED lights will be attached to a 2mm x 15mm deep and 480mm long strip bent in a curve to match the tail profile of the seat hump. (If I can get the lumiweld to take – big if) attaching the strip to the diaphragm it will be at 90 degrees to the diaphragm so the lights will be pointing skywards. To get the lights to be vertical throughout the length of the strip I will need to cut the 15mm wide mounting strip with a compound curve (at 90 degrees at the sides progressively changing to 60 degrees at the end and back again). I definitely do not have the maths or the skill to do that.

17-09-2019, 06:17 PM	#1001
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	I only managed an hour in the garage yesterday but did get the seat hump diaphragm bonded into place. First I applied resin resistant tape to the outside of the seam them copious resin applied to fill any gaps and then 3 laminations of 25mm wide CF woven tape. It seems to have worked OK. I then spent half an hour rubbing down the JB Weld on the tank seam, it is a lot harder than filler and does not easily rub down to a polished surface. It stays with a very granular surface. By the nature of where it is, it is awkward to rub down, a block can only be used on about 25% of the area to be smoothed off and getting a smooth leak free seam is going to take a good few hours to complete. Today was spent bonding in the seat latch mechanism to the seat diaphragm, which was not easy as access was via the glove box hole and then only to the 3 sides visible. First I had to make up a 6mm spacer to raise one side of the seat. It is now as near as dammit level but a bit higher than I really wanted (about 6mm). attractive baby boy names I shall probably end up having to apply a lamination from the outside. It was quite tricky to keep the resin away from the latch mechanism itself. Once the resin was applied the seat was gaffer taped into the right position and it was left to cure. Tomorrow will tell. upload img I am re-considering the rear light mount yet again and the reason is that the final position of the seat and the under hump diaphragm to which the light is attached is virtually parallel with the rear frame rails, i.e. rising at 60 degrees. . The LED lights will be attached to a 2mm x 15mm deep and 480mm long strip bent in a curve to match the tail profile of the seat hump. (If I can get the lumiweld to take – big if) attaching the strip to the diaphragm it will be at 90 degrees to the diaphragm so the lights will be pointing skywards. To get the lights to be vertical throughout the length of the strip I will need to cut the 15mm wide mounting strip with a compound curve (at 90 degrees at the sides progressively changing to 60 degrees at the end and back again). I definitely do not have the maths or the skill to do that.