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350TSS · 04-09-2019, 07:07 PM

Had a week away in Cyprus – brilliant – lazed about and read a lot – “Chickenhawks” about US Huey pilots in Vietnam (not what I expected and very good) and re-read a book I read about 40 years ago “A day in the life of Ivan Denisovic” also compelling and better second time around.
Back in the garage today – even more brilliant.
Tasks planned were all about getting the petrol tank ready to join top and bottom halves so that I can move on to the seat.
First job was to machine out the indents that take the isolation mounts and move the tank rearward by about 10mm so that I can get full lock without recourse to adjusting the lock stops i.e. the frame/front fork tubes are the first point of contact. This took a little while as I needed to ensure the two indents were made a) as far forward as possible in the tank base to give the best chance that the lock stop adjustment was not necessary; b) centrally in relation to the actual location of the isolation mounts on the frame cross member; and c) that in addition to a) and b) the frame bridge did not clash with the tank base near the petrol tap. Points a) and b) were fine. Point c) will require further fettling (grinding out and a couple of layers of CF over the hole), still, better to get it right now than find the tank leaking because the frame bridge has worn a hole in it. Not good to have a hole there either as it is almost directly above the rear cylinder /spark plug.

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Second job was to manufacture the “cotton reel” to hold the tank front retaining bungee, a mirror image of the rear tank retaining “cotton reel”. While I was at it I made an 8mm threaded nut out of some 13mm hexagon aluminium bar to secure it on the inside which was bonded in with araldite. Whenever I use a larger diameter hole saw to cut 3, 4, 6 or 10mm plate I always save the bit (washer) formed between the inner side of the cutting edge and the central drill hole. A 3mm thick one about 35mm dia was used to spread the load where the bungee will pull on the CF.

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Next, I thought about the routeing of the water drain pipe through the petrol tank itself from the filler insert to the outlet pipe alongside the petrol tap. Particularly, how to protect the nitrile pipe from being damaged (holed and allowing water into the petrol tank itself) by the sharp edged CF baffles rigidly attached to the tank base. The problem is that the through pipe (6mm ID) and the joins at either end to the aluminium pipes must be petrol /water proof and the pipe must be resistant to constant immersion in petrol. I thought about using electrical grommets to protect the pipe where it passes through the baffles but rejected this on the grounds that the grommets might slowly chemically break down and the detritus would end up in the float bowls. So the 6mm drain pipe passes through a short length of 10mm bore nitrile rubber pipe bonded to the baffle.

04-09-2019, 07:07 PM	#993
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Had a week away in Cyprus – brilliant – lazed about and read a lot – “Chickenhawks” about US Huey pilots in Vietnam (not what I expected and very good) and re-read a book I read about 40 years ago “A day in the life of Ivan Denisovic” also compelling and better second time around. Back in the garage today – even more brilliant. Tasks planned were all about getting the petrol tank ready to join top and bottom halves so that I can move on to the seat. First job was to machine out the indents that take the isolation mounts and move the tank rearward by about 10mm so that I can get full lock without recourse to adjusting the lock stops i.e. the frame/front fork tubes are the first point of contact. This took a little while as I needed to ensure the two indents were made a) as far forward as possible in the tank base to give the best chance that the lock stop adjustment was not necessary; b) centrally in relation to the actual location of the isolation mounts on the frame cross member; and c) that in addition to a) and b) the frame bridge did not clash with the tank base near the petrol tap. Points a) and b) were fine. Point c) will require further fettling (grinding out and a couple of layers of CF over the hole), still, better to get it right now than find the tank leaking because the frame bridge has worn a hole in it. Not good to have a hole there either as it is almost directly above the rear cylinder /spark plug. upload image to url Second job was to manufacture the “cotton reel” to hold the tank front retaining bungee, a mirror image of the rear tank retaining “cotton reel”. While I was at it I made an 8mm threaded nut out of some 13mm hexagon aluminium bar to secure it on the inside which was bonded in with araldite. Whenever I use a larger diameter hole saw to cut 3, 4, 6 or 10mm plate I always save the bit (washer) formed between the inner side of the cutting edge and the central drill hole. A 3mm thick one about 35mm dia was used to spread the load where the bungee will pull on the CF. how to host pictures online Next, I thought about the routeing of the water drain pipe through the petrol tank itself from the filler insert to the outlet pipe alongside the petrol tap. Particularly, how to protect the nitrile pipe from being damaged (holed and allowing water into the petrol tank itself) by the sharp edged CF baffles rigidly attached to the tank base. The problem is that the through pipe (6mm ID) and the joins at either end to the aluminium pipes must be petrol /water proof and the pipe must be resistant to constant immersion in petrol. I thought about using electrical grommets to protect the pipe where it passes through the baffles but rejected this on the grounds that the grommets might slowly chemically break down and the detritus would end up in the float bowls. So the 6mm drain pipe passes through a short length of 10mm bore nitrile rubber pipe bonded to the baffle.