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Thanks for the sympathy guys - I hadn't considered doing a temporary tidy up and testing it all and then going back to it, the danger for me with that approach is that I would never get round to it, particularly with 6 other un-started projects in the garage that would take priority over a working bike.
Started this morning with getting the rear caliper central on the disc. I chose to fit the washers between the disc and the hub rather than spacer the caliper even though that meant 6 washers rather than 2, mainly because the caliper bolts were exactly the right length and the addition of washers would have made them too short,
I had the choice of stainless washers at 0.9 mm or BZP washers at 1.5 mm, It is virtually impossible to measure accurately and I chose the stainless and was rewarded with absolutely central disc/caliper relationship. Result!!
I then thought about the wiring and where best to start reducing the lengths on the limbs of the wiring harness, the headlamp/head stock/battery area is a complete nightmare, a tangle of knitting Where you start obviously affects whether some particular wire is too long or too short. The MU unit, immediately behind the head stock, has about 18 wires going into it, all relying on a 3 or 4 mm grub screw to hold them in place and a crimped on aluminium terminal end on each wire that I consider very marginal. So best not disturb that until I devise a system of supporting the wires, short and long term, so that the connection does not rely totally on the grub screw and the extremely marginal strength of the aluminium end connection. Rightly or wrongly I chose the rear tail light to start as it was the easiest, something I shall probably regret later.
With the rear brake hanger now in position it was now possible to incorporate the speedo sensor wire into the main fore and aft harness. The CoG of my wiring harness is and forever will be the point where this joins the main harness.
The sub harnesses for the rear brake light and the neutral switches both got shortened. Both of these were not without drama, the hydraulic switch to be fitted to the rear brake master cylinder was about 8 mm too long and would not grip the brake pipe union before the thread bottomed out in the master cylinder, 10 minutes on the grindstone sorted that.
The neutral switch should have been installed before the engine got put back in, access and visibility are extremely limited otherwise. I have a large box of old chewed up spanners and screwdrivers that can be modified to make special tools if necessary, a cheap old 1/4" Whitworth ring spanner had a slot cut out of the ring to pass over the cable and this allowed a rather laborious one flat at a time tightening of the switch into the crankcase.
That was as far as I got today
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