[Luddite]

You have to remove the calipers and there are two ways you can do this, either;

• remove the pads first and then it's easy to lift the calipers off or;
• once you've removed the caliper bolts, push the caliper against the disc to push the outside pistons back into the caliper then pull the caliper towards you against the disc so the inside pistons are retracted. That will give you enough clearance to lift the caliper off, even if the pads are brand new.

When replacing the wheel and calipers follow this procedure:

Lubricate the shank and thread of the axle.

Fit the front wheel between the fork legs, installing the spacer in-between the wheel hub and left-hand fork bottom end.

Fit the axle locking tool onto the axle. (Or use a suitably sized allen key if you don't have the tool.)

Drive the axle fully home into the wheel hub, inserting the locating peg of the locking tool in the special notches at the bottom end of the fork.

Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the axle nut, then screw it onto the end of the axle. Tighten the nut to a torque of 63 Nm ±5%.

Grease the threads and undersides of the heads of the caliper bolts then screw them in finger tight. Tighten the screws to a torque of 2 Nm ±10%.

Operate the front brake lever two or three times.

Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip and tighten the caliper bolts to a torque of 45 Nm ±5%.

Check that the brake discs turn freely inside the calipers.

Before tightening the fork bottom pinch bolts, lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebar to load the suspension; so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft. (Don't forget to remove the locking tool.)

Grease the fork bottom pinch bolts then tighten them to a torque of 14 Nm ±5%, proceeding in a 1-2-1 sequence. (Note that the workshop manual instruction says 18 Nm but the table of torque values in the same manual says 14 Nm - go with the lower figure.)

Edit: You beat me to it, BRD!