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350TSS · 20-03-2019, 04:49 PM

I thought I would start the day by quickly removing the seat mould from the pattern and then tidy up the edges of the mould, removing all those sharp errant resin coated strands that have an amazing ability to penetrate skin. Two hours later I was still at it. It was not for lack of trying or wood chisels.

I think my worst fear has been recognised, I always knew there was a risk of mould locking if I divided the mould laterally rather than longitudinally and it seems that risk has crystallised – BUGGER!!!!!!
Frustrated and not making any progress I set the seat base aside to come at it afresh tomorrow. Nothing will change overnight except perhaps my demeanour. I therefore decided to concentrate on:
Cunning plan 1 – this is to provide a gasket face on the inside of the tank top mould that will locate the tank bottom mould and give something to bond (and seal) the two halves of the tank.
The plan is to mould from 25mm wide CF tape a “ring” that follows precisely the lowest edge of the tank top that will drop about 3 to 5mm into the tank top CF mould and be bonded into position. It will, before the bottom half CF mould is introduced, be overlaid with 2 possibly 3 layers of CF from the inside to provide a rigid reinforcement for the lowest edge of the tank.
I don’t know that it will work but it is the best plan I can come up with.
The first step of the process is to apply 5 coats of release agent to the bottom of the mould then mask off the tank bottom mould where the gasket ring is to be formed. No gel coat will be used, just epoxy resin and probably 2 layers of 25mm CF tape. Below is a picture of the tank edge masked – this delineates where the epoxy resin and the CF tape will be placed, I have ordered some special masking tape to be put either side of this ordinary paper masking tape which will be removed when the special tape is laid down either side of it.

find the next gas station
and
Cunning plan 2 – this is to facilitate the provision of a clear strip that will act as an external visual fuel gauge.
It involved splitting a 20mm plastic electrical conduit tube longitudinally and at either end cutting a 20mm deep slot in the ½ tube wall. The tank top mould will be coated with clear epoxy compatible gel coat and when the final location of the gauge is determined (positioned vertically from the lowest edge of the tank top mould) a 25mm wide section will be masked off. Ethanol resistant resin will be applied to this 25 mm wide strip and when it is ¾ cured the tube will be bonded to the tank flank with more ethanol resistant resin. The whole of the inside of the tank mould will then have x number of laminations of CF and epoxy resin overlaid, taking care not to seal the at either end of the tube. The whole of the tank top and the, still separate, tank bottom mould will then have a coat of ethanol resistant resin. When this has cured the two halves of the tank will be bonded together and more ethanol resistant resin will be poured inside and run around the seams to thoroughly coat them. Here is a picture of the sight tube, split in half with cut-outs top and bottom, I may put some painted graduation lines on the inside of the tube (or drill holes at regular intervals) but that might be an embellishment too far.

20-03-2019, 04:49 PM	#889
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	I thought I would start the day by quickly removing the seat mould from the pattern and then tidy up the edges of the mould, removing all those sharp errant resin coated strands that have an amazing ability to penetrate skin. Two hours later I was still at it. It was not for lack of trying or wood chisels. I think my worst fear has been recognised, I always knew there was a risk of mould locking if I divided the mould laterally rather than longitudinally and it seems that risk has crystallised – BUGGER!!!!!! Frustrated and not making any progress I set the seat base aside to come at it afresh tomorrow. Nothing will change overnight except perhaps my demeanour. I therefore decided to concentrate on: Cunning plan 1 – this is to provide a gasket face on the inside of the tank top mould that will locate the tank bottom mould and give something to bond (and seal) the two halves of the tank. The plan is to mould from 25mm wide CF tape a “ring” that follows precisely the lowest edge of the tank top that will drop about 3 to 5mm into the tank top CF mould and be bonded into position. It will, before the bottom half CF mould is introduced, be overlaid with 2 possibly 3 layers of CF from the inside to provide a rigid reinforcement for the lowest edge of the tank. I don’t know that it will work but it is the best plan I can come up with. The first step of the process is to apply 5 coats of release agent to the bottom of the mould then mask off the tank bottom mould where the gasket ring is to be formed. No gel coat will be used, just epoxy resin and probably 2 layers of 25mm CF tape. Below is a picture of the tank edge masked – this delineates where the epoxy resin and the CF tape will be placed, I have ordered some special masking tape to be put either side of this ordinary paper masking tape which will be removed when the special tape is laid down either side of it. find the next gas station and Cunning plan 2 – this is to facilitate the provision of a clear strip that will act as an external visual fuel gauge. It involved splitting a 20mm plastic electrical conduit tube longitudinally and at either end cutting a 20mm deep slot in the ½ tube wall. The tank top mould will be coated with clear epoxy compatible gel coat and when the final location of the gauge is determined (positioned vertically from the lowest edge of the tank top mould) a 25mm wide section will be masked off. Ethanol resistant resin will be applied to this 25 mm wide strip and when it is ¾ cured the tube will be bonded to the tank flank with more ethanol resistant resin. The whole of the inside of the tank mould will then have x number of laminations of CF and epoxy resin overlaid, taking care not to seal the at either end of the tube. The whole of the tank top and the, still separate, tank bottom mould will then have a coat of ethanol resistant resin. When this has cured the two halves of the tank will be bonded together and more ethanol resistant resin will be poured inside and run around the seams to thoroughly coat them. Here is a picture of the sight tube, split in half with cut-outs top and bottom, I may put some painted graduation lines on the inside of the tube (or drill holes at regular intervals) but that might be an embellishment too far.