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From what I'm reading the starter itself and the leads to and from are okay.
You have not indicated what the battery voltage is, or what the battery condition is.
A voltage drop test will tell you something about the cranking amps available.
The battery should show about 13 volts before the test, then crank away and note what the voltage drops to during the cranking. Also observe what the voltage recovers to after cranking, both if the engine starts and also if it it doesn't.
It shouldn't drop much more than 2 or 3 volts during cranking and should recover to close to it's original voltage afterwards with the engine stopped. You'll probably see charging voltage of about 14 volts if it starts.
An excessive voltage drop and poor recovery might indicate a loss of the cranking amps from the battery. In which case the only answer is to renew the battery.
However you have just rebuilt the engine, so it would not be unreasonable to see some stiffness in that initially. That would account for slow rotation on the starter and also a large voltage drop, due to the extra load.
I would pop the spark plugs out and whirl it over for a while to loosen it off a little and also check that the oil light goes out, whilst listening for any untoward noises.
You say in post #32 that the motor turns by hand, but don't specify if that was the engine or starter motor?
I don't want to judge your engine building skills, but it's all too easy to bolt something up without an all important spacer washer or some such , and cause some unwanted binding! For instance I believe that there is a troublesome spacer behind the flywheel that is extremely easy to displace when assembling?
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