The tanks still sit on the bench waiting for primer. I have to figure out a way to make a polyethene tent in the workshop and still be able to get at everything.
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The 4 pad calipers are try fitted to the forks and look good without being too different to the original Goldlines. The pistons are a little bigger and all the same size rather than two big and two smaller ones. Each piston has it's own little pad. Not as sexy as the radial ones I had, but should be just as effective and retain the original "S" forks.
The speedo cable route seems to be compromised by these though, like the radials did.
But luckily I have the XS650 one and it solves the problem. The original cable and Goldlines were not brilliant so it seems. There is a witness on the left caliper where it rubbed and the cable has taken a set in a strange "S" curve where the caliper pushed it out of line. Not ideal from new!
Studying the speedo gearbox when I rotate the wheel revealed that the Ti disc bolts do actually touch it. It was serendipitous that I fitted button head bolts when I got the Arashi discs, because they cleared everything nicely, but standard height bolts would have fouled it as the disc carrier is thicker than the Brembos.
I've now got new discs as the Arashis are below 4mm thick now. I couldn't find Arashi replacements in the UK and have been caught with duty from China before, so sourced Rezo discs which seem to be identical in every way to the Arashis except for price and also that they have counterbored bolt holes which is again serendipitous as it means I can use my Ti bolts without fouling the dratted speedo gearbox.. Getting there!
I started to draw up a list of bolt sizes for Ti replacements and looking at the cap screws with the clumsily broached Allen heads and raised letters, I realised that the teenzy letters were A2-70. So I got to work tidying the heads up with my standard format.
Best way to hold the screws is in a drill chuck.
Then I present them to my sanding disc with the drill turning. This gives a nice even grind very quickly. About 1.5 seconds actually.
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Obviously it's a bit scratchy straight off the sander, but flat..
Repeat this on a stitched mop with Blue soap for few more seconds and it saves buying new screws.
https://metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk...BoClxYQAvD_BwE
Ready to go now and very long itch scratched.
Finished my Ti shopping list and sent an order off to RaceTi
https://www.raceti.com/
Also ordered a pair of BT023 from M&P to go on the wheels when they are re-lacquered.
I've drained the brake fluid and will measure the lines for the 4 pads and order more Hel lines from Motorcycle Products. This is the best deal I've seen for custom Hel lines.
https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk...lines/1/023803
That will be the budget just about gone for the time being, till the next payday.
I've ground out the centre stand and made a patch to weld on. Also fitted a small tube in the top to be welded.
This is to guarantee that the legs don't fold inwards off the pivots due to any weakness caused by my grinding. I remember reading about BMW stands failing and locking the back wheels back in the 70's. There were a few fatalities as I remember, including at least one police rider.. Sticks in ones mind!