Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Gazza
Frickin' good article Spuggy!
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Thanks Mr Gazza!
Yeh, I spent about 20 hours googling/reading this time around so I didn't embarrass myself on the internet
thought I'd take the time to share; I still owe you guys lots, overall
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Gazza
I did a bunch of searching and I believe this is the video that you referred to? https://youtu.be/TYxtCC330Xg
I couldn't get your link to work. |
Yup, that's the one - since edited the embedded link to the same URL, as the board software doesn't like embedded links. Or it's disabled or summat..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Gazza
This makes a mockery of those who say that it doesn't cost any more to have the lights on, as clearly more current demand puts more load on the engine and therefore burns more fuel... I'm into fitting one of those R/Rs that only draws what it needs.
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Heh. With a shunt, the only difference it makes having the lights on or off, is whether the power you generate is converted into light/heat in the bulbs, or heat in the shunt... Makes no odds to the motor, because the alternator is chucking out everything it can anyway
Those of y'all who tried to save battery money on your push bikes by using the dynamo-on-the-tire approach will have a pretty good idea how much drag it takes to generate even a pitiful couple of watts...
One of the forum pages, they measured power draw in the alternator leads, to check whether a specific R/R was a shunt or series type; basically, as soon as you switch off the load on a series R/R, the amps in the wires drops off to almost nothing. That's gotta make a difference.
All seemed kind of academic until I realized I had to replace the regulator anyway. And wasn't exactly brimming with confidence with the battery.