I only had a couple of hours in the garage today as I was suffering with a cold just coming to fruition.
I managed to swap over the wrongly installed valve cap seals without puncturing them either taking them off or replacing them. Whilst doing it I re-checked all the clearances. I had a about a 20 minute hiatus when I could not get the camshaft to sit back in its proper position until I realised that the drive side end shim was not properly located and would let the camshaft seat on the drive side bearing. Taking it out and locating the shim with some thick grease solved the issue.
Next I tackled replacement of the gear-change mechanism springs, purely a precautionary measure, although the old ones looked perfect and were working fine when the bike came off the road. The thought occurred to me that I might have just replaced some perfectly good ones with ones that are from a bad batch, incorrectly tempered or whatever. The new ones had slightly less aggressive bends so maybe they modified the design to limit the possibility of breakage.
When I painted the engine I made up a blanking plate for the starter motor hole, this was bolted on with 3 x 6mm hex head bolts inserted from inside the alternator case done up finger tight. The paint, of course, covered the threads exposed on the outside where the starter motor lives. Two came out OK as I could get access to the bolt head inside the alternator case, the third is the bolt that can only be accessed by inserting an allen key through the hole in the starter idler gear, plenty of access for an allen key but none available for a 10mm socket. After about half an hour trying to wedge the bolt so I could get the nut past the paint I had to take the idler gear off which is what I should have done in the first place. Doh!!!
I ordered one of these to heat the crankcase mouth around the studs that are to be replaced, my normal blow lamp I fear will saturate the area and mean a repaint.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133138149423